Dsquared Spring 2013

Dsquared Spring 2013

Canadian twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten conjured up a tantalizing mix of highly charged, libidinous garments, twinned with bourgeois Chanel references this spring season.

Unashamedly suggestive garments were rolled out onto the runway offering plenty of va va voom! Soaring high octane energy was tinged with hints of rebellion.

A white muscle tee was emblazoned with the duo's surname, Caten. This was paired with a fetishistic leather harness and black culottes. A robust mix of trash versus treasure.

Greek fisherman caps slung low on models foreheads, were an inescapable fixture.An enticing display featured patent leather, strands upon strands of pearls, gold chunky chains and jewel encrusted, decorative appurtenances.

In typical Dsquared fashion, nothing was understated about this collection. Everything exuded the elixir of youth and extreme excess.

Distressed denim shorts, jeans, and skimpy mini skirts were in attendance. Swimwear included a black string bikini paired with leather, fingerless gloves and a titillating, spliced, t bar bandeau which offered serious attitude.

The sexy rock n roll vibe continued with shrunken leather moto jackets worn with crisp, white, tailored shirting. Lindsey Wixon modelled a sumptuous, chrome, bomber jacket paired with Spanish matador inspired white knickers featuring glistening, lustrous, gold embellishment which lent a piquant aesthetic.Sensual lace up corsetry complete with eyelets was teamed with a black ra ra skirt with raw hem detail.

A delicacy of captivating eveningwear included the mind blowing, amplified silhouette modelled my Bette Franke. It was a mullet dress featuring subtle leopard and love heart print in shades of magenta and black complete with a multitude of cascading ruffles.

A leather apron, floor length, fish tailed dress had a strong dominatrix slant.

As usual the brothers had a penchant for defined arabesques and fitted, body con shapes which referenced the 90s.

Accessories included a succession of lavish, gargantuan gold chains, layered upon one another. Choker necklaces proved popular this season. Brooches featured pearl cross configurations. Uncluttered, minimalistic gold cuffs offered clean lines. Belt buckles were plastered with DAN and DDC initials, perfect for the logo lover.

Lacquered, midi length, black boots featured gold accents. Teetering, bondage style, high heeled platform sandals came in shades of burnished gold. Mesmeric, crystal encrusted peep toe booties offered ornate swagger.

By Courtney Jones.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2013

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2013

Roberto Cavalli has a distinct cognizance of exactly what his customer base desires and his latest spring collection was carried out scrupulously and meticulously to champion true Cavalli style.
The colour palette consisted heavily of black and white. When colour did creep in it was in brilliant shades of orange sorbet, peach, emerald green, lavender and aquamarine which popped against the stark, monochromatic contrast.
Majestically stylish ensembles included a white lace, intricately embellished shrunken blazer with peak shoulder and white lapels. A matching shirt and sleek, figure hugging, hipster trouser complete with glass crystal, encrusted, bead work in swirling Pucciesque patterns resembled a broderie anglaise doily. The narrow trousers lent an elongated silhouette.
A profusion of sizzling, peek a boo cut outs were prominent on eveningwear which featured scintillating embellishment and rich velvets. One runway number channelled a modern day Morticia gothic, neo romanticism quality. Sheer netting mirrored gossamer airiness with an abundance of beaded strips applied to a striking, decadent, evening dress.
The tunic and trouser combo which has proven extremely popular with designers this season was revealed on a white lace, embroided tunic paired with slashed, silk fringed trousers.
Models wafted down the runway in sensual, languid arabesques including an apricot, punched leather insert, lingerie slip dress in a stylish Italian scarf print with flashes of emerald green which worked well against the apricot palette.
Roberto Cavalli released his inner safari with signature, exotic leopard prints and snakeskin panelling. Alluring, shoe string, plunge back dresses consumed of provocation.
Accessories were fearless and included a mash up of jungle predators. A chunky, white tiger cuff, very Bulgari, festooned models wrists. Tigers enveloped models ears on ear cuffs. Silver and pewter rectangular pieces formed chunky bangles, layered upon one another. Coiled snakes and tigers featured on chokers and collars. A multi faceted onyx and gold caged cocktail ring offered lustrous grandeur. A small white, crocodile, ladylike boxy, satchel came complete with gold chain handle. Other finishes included a graphic snake, aqua print bag and embossed leather numbers. Skinny, polished belts came in a selection of metallic, crocodile finishes. An oversized, rose gold pair of sunglasses featured sepia lenses and leaf detail on frames, tres chic. Vertiginous, strappy stilettos in snake pewter were a wardrobe must have.
Overall a effervescent collection celebrating a woman's form and silhouette.

By Courtney Jones.  

Balmain Spring 2013

Balmain Spring 2013

Adept, stalwart Olivier Rousteing produced a standout collection replete of bravado this spring season. Rousteing's collection referenced 80s and 90s Americana. Think supermodels and glamazons, mixed with athleticism, gridiron and college sports stars.

A myriad of amplified, generously cut shoulder pads were in attendance which was quite flummoxing. The Balmain woman this season was powerful, liberated, emboldened and ready to conquer the world.

Black and white harlequin prints featured predominantly on garments including slick suiting complete with 80s powerhouse shoulders, high waisted second skin checkered skinnies with ankle zipper detail and a powder puff pastel blue blazer complete with metallic hardware.

 Anna Selezneva modelled a halter neck, racer back jumpsuit with white wicker inserts which offered a fresh, modern alternative, minus the shoulder pads. Statuesque Kasia Struss strutted down the runway with precision sass and sophistication in a lemon, pale blue and white mini dress with undulating wicker panelling.

A cleverly draped, shrunken white halter top, swathed Juliana Shurig's upper torso, this look was paired with a high waisted, relaxed fit, waxed leather trouser. A strong, fierce look that commanded attention. Team with abs for the ultimate in sporting luxe.

A mixture of textures and graphics featured on floor grazing cuffed hemlines.

Rousteing succumbed to revivalism yet again this season channelling inspiration from his Fall 2012 and Resort 2013 collections.

Metallic sutures were evident on a honey mustard, wicker embossed top with matching sleek mini. Guipure lace added a soft femininity and juxtaposition to the wicker inserts which referenced Cuban furniture. Less opulent garments for everyday wear included an indigo wash, denim shirt dress buttoned up to the neck, a four piece denim suit which included bustier, cropped press stud shirt, jegging and oversized tuxedo blazer. A denim bustier offered coquettish charm.

Accessories were an integral part of the collection. These included a black and white belt featuring silver hardware which resembled artillery and patent, emblematic boxing belts either worn slung low on hips or waist cinching. Supersized silver hoop earrings were resplendent of the 80s. Chrome court shoes and perforated leather, peep toe, stiletto booties made regular runway appearances.

By Courtney Jones.

Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2013

Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2013

Legendary venerable design duo Dolce and Gabbana continued to reign supreme this season with their latest spring / summer offering which was bursting with pulchritude. 

Dolce and Gabbana drew inspiration from their Sicilian heritage which resulted in an embodiment of all things Italian.

An inescapable fixture of corsetry was highly prevalent. Attenuated waists lent a sculptural silhouette.

A riot of colour was resplendent on prints featuring conquistadors and moor inspired artifacts. Scarf prints were teamed haphazardously with impressionistic fresco style prints. A manifestation of all things kitsch was a hallmark feature.

A multitude of puppeteria characters were emblazoned on garments including shifts, 1950s sirenesque, diaphanous skirts, culottes, head scarves and blousons.

A strong handcrafted artisanal aesthetic was evident on a hessian shift dress complete with nipped in waist and flower applique. A multi coloured macrame bralet and mini skirt was teamed with matching tote and demure sandal oozed of Italian charm. Dolce and Gabbana's signature lace inserts and motifs made an appearance on bloomers, tailored cropped jackets and figure hugging pencil skirts.

Stripes proved popular this season. A red candy striped, breezy boatneck blouse teamed with matching knicker bocker, modelled by Karmen Pedaru, had a distinct vintage swimwear air to it. Zuzanna Bijoch closed the show in a showstopping, museum worthy caged, wicker corset dress with lighter than air chiffon overlay.

Bold, oversized, ornate earrings bared a striking resemblance to a pinada.

A combination of pom poms, straw and beaded earrings were shown in colourful displays. Moors characters dangled from models ears.

This collection was a combination of finesse, ostentation and practically minded garments. Either way there is something to suit everyone's palette.

By Courtney Jones.

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013 

Designer Christopher Bailey's eponymous Burberry collection was a culmination of the irrefutably modern. Evident was the profusion of signature, classic trench coats yet this season they were modified and updated with architectural lines and amplified silhouettes. 

This season Mr Bailey had a penchant for capes and corsetry. A cashmere wool cape coat in the purest shade of snow white was teamed with a satin salmon ruched corset. A lustrous iridescent foil like lavender shirt was twinned with a magenta and teal knee length diamond printed skirt. 

A succession of coats included a quintessential azure sculpted cocoon coat, nonchalantly knotted, complete with sloping shoulders. Colour blocking was present in a dip dye effect red and fuschia trench with voluminous sleeves and oversized pockets. A shrunken spliced gold chartreuse metallic jacquard jacket was paired with an ivory pleated knicker.

The voluminously proportioned upper torso theme continued with a butterscotch leather aviator style trench modelled by Cara Delevingne.

Hues ranged from the monochromatic to vivid and saturated. Think bubblegum pink, emerald, ochre, mustard, ruby, cobalt and lilac.

Another welcome addition were tailored tap shorts in uncluttered, clean lines. More diffident garments included a dainty, delicate teak lace trench with scalloped lace hem and a purple pebbled leather pencil skirt. Plumage made an appearance on a boatneck blouse resembling the shades of a peacock and a cobalt midi length dress.

Playing a starring role in the accessories department was the transparent bag trend. Bowling bag Doctor styles featured metallic reptilian trimmings, with the bags main component in a PVC material. Shades included yellow gold, candy apple red, ochre, chartreuse, forest green and purple complete with identity tag and padlock. Chic personal belongings are a must as all is on display for those to see.