VERSACE SPRING 2016

VERSACE SPRING 2016

Donatella Versace's uplifting Spring 2016 collection was steeped in combat undertones. Crisp, defined silhouettes brimming of urban jungle warrior radiated on the runway, models ready for battle.

Brazilian catwalk veteran Raquel Zimmermann opened the collection in a khaki, elongated blazer in distinguished lines. The sensual, sophisticated number starred in micro proportions. Oversized pockets featured contrasting olive racing stripes. A three tone onyx, butterscotch and green webbing belt complete with silver Versace centrepiece accentuated the waist. Platform, peep toe, booties were finalised with suede criss-cross detail and gold insignia.

Natasha Poly modelled an admirably wearable, rich camel, military inspired overcoat. Four large pockets punctuated the drawstring coat which grazed the upper thigh. A simplistic shift dress in the shade of seaweed was teamed underneath.

A bold, emerald, camo print highlighted a deep v-neck mini dress, modelled by Victoria's Secret fave, Behati Prinsloo. The form fitting, body con, number featured streamlined darting and flap pockets.Black scalloped pocket lining peeked cheekily below the dress hemline. Anna Ewers modelled an eighties inspired ensemble comprising of a relaxed panelled sweater in shades of sugilite, electric jade and slate. Patterns included zebra, leopard, and solid black. Tailored, camouflage print shorts concluded the punchy number. Ribbed, spinach hued, socks were twinned to strappy, grass green, platforms.

An undulating, Pucci-esque, amethyst, pine and emerald green sleek longline tuxedo jacket was paired to highwaisted, precision cut, micro shorts. A narrow grape bandeau was layered to the jacket. A luxurious camo scarf with gold insignia hardware added finesse to the seventies derived garb.

A textural, round neck, asymmetrical drop waist mini dress starred in lavender suede, turquoise green leather and waxy black exotic leather inserts. Platform leather workman's boots toughened the feminine, flirty arabesque.

A succession of blouson sleeve mini dresses punctuated the runway in a series of different fabrics and finishes; from the casual mans style sky blue pinstripe to the amplified organza ebony or the graphic tangerine, tan, ribena, raven silk satin version all contained the hallmark feature webbing belt. The nipped in waist was very much in attendance.

A languid pantsuit shone in the shade of pecan. The relaxed trousers were generously cut and sat low on the hip. A rigorously cut blazer came complete with fringed trimmings. A tangerine, bandeau crop was body baring. An Italian scarf print graced a silk neck tie.

Amplified Versace buzz dominated on a suggestive, plunging, maxi dress, ideal for a sexy siren. Details included gossamer zebra lace slip layered to an asymmetrical camo print which swathed the torso and cascaded effortlessly to the ground. A provocative leg split concluded the sizzling number. A string of lavish, enlivened cocktail mini dresses closed the collection and beckoned to be worn by the empowered Versace woman. Variants included a mauve, rouleau mesh embellished style and a kale hued barely there, transparent slip dress starring scintillating sequins in surging patterns.

By Courtney Jones.

 

BALMAIN x H&M

BALMAIN x H and M COLLABORATION

Designer Olivier Rousteing unveiled his highly anticipated Balmain x H and M collaboration on October 20th in New York. The runway extravaganza was set in a subway terminal and featured catwalk appearances from a roll call of supermodels including Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, Alessandro Ambrosio and Toni Garrn. A high octane performance by American nineties boyband, Backstreet Boys set the scene, belting out their number one hit, 'Everybody'.

Fashion celeb of the moment, Kendall Jenner opened the collection in an ebony, hand embellished tunic featuring bronze, silver and gold beading throughout. Details included 3/4 sleeves, velvet cuffs, square neckline and signature boxing belt waist cincher. The opulent tunic was paired to languid, velvet, palazzo pants.

Victoria's Secret fave, Alessandro Ambrosio modelled an electric cobalt, structured shoulder, body con mini dress. Geometric diamond motifs were splashed across the scintillating number. Opaque stockings and caged, gladiator, peep toe booties concluded the after dark number.

Parisienne model Nadja Bender strutted with conviction in a strapless, lavish, embroidered mini dress. The gold brocade worked effortlessly against the sumptuous velvet bodice. Lady bug red, corded, choker necklace and cuff punctuated the arabesque with a jolt of colour. A boxy, elongated, tailored vest added urban elegance to the ensemble.

The liquid satin, ruched, tulip skirt was reincarnated and sat high on the thigh. The satin caressed the model's hips saucily. A peak shoulder, plunging blouse featured billowy sleeves with eighties powerhouse connotations reigning supreme. Second skin stretch suede leggings were twinned to suede, pointy toe, stiletto booties. The tulip skirt silhouette combination also starred against a sensual, peek-a-boo top in midnight complete with transparent, flesh baring panels. A navy, military inspired, polished overcoat was worn over the shoulders and featured prominent gold button accoutrement.

Fluid, ink, silk satin dhoti pants, reminiscent of MC Hammer does ostentation were modelled by ubermodel Karlie Kloss. A simplistic bandeau, stomach baring, crop was coupled to a luxurious beaded tuxedo jacket in streamlined proportions.

Calling all fur lovers; a mahogany and black faux fur flecked chubby ticked all the right boxes. The fur jacket was highlighted by an emerald jumpsuit featuring lace raven design motif, undeniable glamour for the perennial party girl.

Jourdan Dunn modelled one of the most replicated blazers of the decade. The form fitting ivory blazer came complete with double breasted gold button closure. The waist was defined by a matching, wide, belt displaying gold arrow centrepiece and iridescent trimmings. Molten peg leg trousers created volume. Bandage wrap sandals finalised the standout addition.

The Balmain x H and M collection launches in Sydney on Thursday November 5th. Pieces are available at the newly launched Pitt Street Mall H and M flagship store (October 31st) and Macquarie Centre. Plenty of affordable garments on offer with more deluxe pieces fetching over $500 and as Rousteing proudly stated, "What is Balmain is what is me".

By Courtney Jones.

 

ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

French designer Isabel Marant channelled the cultural lineage of North India's Rajasthan for her Spring 2016 collection. A colourful display was on offer bursting with distinctive Marant hallmark features for the bohemian globetrotter with a taste for all things embodying nomadic luxe.

Model Zuzu Tadeushuk opened the show in a cuffed, parachute silk, harem pant, which tapered at the ankle. The hip hugging pants offered freedom of movement and brimmed of energised cool. An ebony kimono inspired jacket was paired to an artisanal overcoat complete with frayed, raw effects hem and colourful embroidery in shades of magenta, silver, raven and fuchsia.

A pristine serape was updated with pearl trimmings and worn asymmetrically for a modernistic approach. White, effortless, peg leg trousers were an understated addition. Bold, strappy, rope entwined heels offered a gladiatorial air. A canary yellow chunky choker and lariat added a jolt of colour to the neckline.

Metallic pewter accents highlighted a relaxed, bouffant sleeve, hooded anorak which billowed with every stride Lexi Boling made. A ribbed, funnel neck, knit in milk was worn tucked into black knitted, high waisted briefs. Nautical rope pool slides concluded the look.

Danish theater actor turned model, Mathilde Brandi ignited the runway in scintillating, ice silver, sequin briefs. Ethnic Indian inspired wares continued to frequent the runway and dominated on a mirrored, embroidered, fringed tunic. The characterful garment featured high neck,  structured shoulders, 3/4 frayed sleeves and subtle peplum; an effervescent garment brimming with undeniable charm.

The classic white shirt was updated in an oversized, man style, arabesque complete with darting, gargantuan chest pockets, tabs and a button funnel neck. High waisted shorts in a fabric resembling aluminium foil were cut high on the thigh and radiated beautifully against the stark, white shirt. Tomato red, gladiator, rope sandals in cumbersome proportions were the footwear of choice.

Frenchy Josephine Le Tutour transmogrified into a bona fide, deluxe, jet setting hippie in a boxy, peak shoulder vest which was married to a pewter, lamé, voluminous blouse and a shrunken, ivory, sequin embellished jacket. Cuffs featured embroidery in a riot of colour. Shades included cumin, teal, paprika and bronze. Pearls and frayed trimmings punctuated the hemline. Monochromatic, pinstripe dhoti pants were of relaxed proportions. Ine Neefs modelled a full length overcoat version of the cropped ivory jacket which was teamed to liquid, iridescent, mercury hued sweat pants,oozing with insouciance. A combination rich in techy sportswear references.

Archival remnants continue to shine and will no doubt appeal to Marant aficionados galore.

By Courtney Jones.

SAINT LAURENT SPRING 2016

SAINT LAURENT SPRING 2016

Designer Hedi Slimane of cult label Saint Laurent produced a Spring 2016 collection replete with 90s grunge elements. Vintage inspired finds brimming with rock n roll bohemia were the hallmark features of the deconstructed glam collection.

Model Steffi Soede opened the show in a liquid mercury hued slip dress. The body baring number featured a scintillating, plunging decolletage and provocative thigh split. A jewelled tiara sat low on the forehead and screamed of rock rebellion. Tomato red, patent stilettos featured a spindly heel, thin ankle strap and a cluster of fine red leather strips across the toes.

A fox fur, long line gilet starred in shades of vanilla, fudge and chocolate. A barely there, sheer slip dress with ruffled, scoop neckline accompanied the vest and featured a bead encrusted floral pattern. Black briefs were teamed underneath for modesty. Waxed ebony wellies completed the look. Lingerie as outerwear continued to be very much in attendance and frequented a gossamer, scalloped lace, slip dress. Dark glamour reigned supreme with raven floral applique gracing the gothic slip. A white, leather, shrunken moto jacket brimmed with "Don't mess with me!" attitude. A fearless combination evoking a strong rocker mood.

A bold display of exhibitionism dominated on a rouleau strap, liberated mesh mini. The transparent, suggestive dress was paired to jewel embellished briefs and a feather chubby. A daring combination bursting with the elixir of youth. Saint Laurent muse, Grace Hartzel took to the runway in an oversized, relaxed camo print jacket. The jacket was twinned to a deep decolletage, scintillating gold mini dress. A bejewelled tiara highlighted Hartzel's cascading auburn locks. A Glastonbury worthy outfit for music revellers aplenty.

British model Sam Rollinson modelled a kitsch, exotic, lion emblazoned bomber jacket in the shade of storm blue. A fishnet body con slip was layered to a v-neck sparkling sequin dress. Fine gold and silver chains adorned the neck and military green Wellingtons concluded the look.

A floaty, feminine, floral maxi starred in peaches and cream. Puff sleeves, keyhole and drawstring tie added a poetic edge. A matte paillette gold cardigan was teamed to the dress and worn off the shoulder for a nonchalant approach.

A shimmering, bias cut, silver slip dress ignited the runway and was paired to a textural shag overcoat in a kaleidoscope of colour.

Anarchy ruled on a neo-romantic evening dress comprising of silk chiffon and embroidered flowers in the dark gothic glam shade of raven. Ruching swathed the torso and a thigh split added the va va voom factor. A black and white, monochromatic, plumage flecked chubby added volume to the sensual number.

The collection closed with a series of silk charmeuse eveningwear looks in black and golden alabaster. Styles included bias cut, floor sweeping gowns with plunging necklines and delicate rouleau straps; after dark elegance with sexy silhouettes throughout.

A collection rich in youth culture, an attainable look for those with a penchant for all things eclectic and a spare past time of trawling through vintage stores and market stalls for that highly elusive fashion find. Think a heady mix of petticoat dresses married to your favourite faux fur chubby.

By Courtney Jones.

ROBERTO CAVALLI SPRING 2016

ROBERTO CAVALLI SPRING 2016

For Creative Director Peter Dundas' first official collection at the helm of Roberto Cavalli, Dundas delved deep into the eighties decade with a jubilant display replete with liberated, sizzling garments with the hallmark features Cavalli is famed for. While other designers showcased 90s dominated looks Dundas opened the multi faceted collection with an array of sweet sorbet hued garments including an apricot, oversized full length, canvas trench which was paired to a ballet pink, cropped, leather shell and highwaisted utilitarian khaki shorts complete with asymmetrical zips and perforated black leather waist cincher. Terracotta suede boots cut low on the ankle featured tie suede detail. A single gold diamond shape earring was finalised with gold thread grazing the collarbone of model Greta Varlese. 

Maartje Verhoef took to the runway in a boxy, powder puff blue muted tee worn tucked into an ebony, a-line, leather mini. A floor sweeping frilled train was layered to the skirt which was a flamboyant inclusion.

An electric scarlet and burnt orange bomber jacket starred in a monochromatic floral and fauna print. The bold addition was paired to a fairy floss, strapless, ruched, tiered mini dress with diaphanous train. Saccharine lavender booties completed the look. A striking lustrous citrine version was married to a bronze, tapestry, tuxedo jacket steeped in Italian decadence emblazoned with lion motifs throughout. 

A showstopping colossal sized bow highlighted an alabaster, one shouldered, silk crop top. Eighties powerhouse connotations reigned supreme. Highwaisted, 7/8, denim jeans were embellished with fine beaded thread fringing, sequins and undulating lace inserts. A python shootie featured an almond toe, double buckle closure and wooden heel.

Russian model Kate Grigorieva modelled a zebra amethyst and black cropped tuxedo jacket adorned with scintillating black beading. A peach body con mini dress was teamed underneath. Cavalli's exotic jungle love affair was still very much in attendance.

A turtleneck, ruched, bandage dress in micro proportions was a textural delight. Zebra, ocelot, snake and nude strips encased Angel Rutledge's torso. A jumbo sized leather bow adorned the right shoulder and fell to the hip. Beaded strips resembling chains added plenty of the bling factor.

A floaty Grecian style mini dress in a watercolour of iced mauve and wild mulberry featured exposed shoulder with ruffled sleeve, asymmetric frill, grommet tiered billowy mini skirt attenuated by a black slimline velvet belt; a fragility with wasp like attitude prevailed.

A ruched lace, strapless bodice was accentuated with a romantic ruffled trimming which graced the decolletage and outer sleeves. The lace up front detail oozed with seductive charm. Blood red slimline waxy leather trousers came complete with wraparound waist with double gold ring detail. A fashion savvy design for the ever confident Cavalli woman.

Catwalk newcomer Romy Schonberger closed the collection in a  pink lemonade, lace up, statement making mini dress. Panelled ruching enveloped the tender, fanciful number. A large ruffle adorned the neckline and sleeves; a contemporary eye catching design bound to get you noticed.

By Courtney Jones.