Blumarine Spring/Summer 2014

Blumarine Spring/Summer 2014

Italian designer Anna Molinari of Blumarine produced a whimsical S/S 2014 Collection brimming with innocence and feminine charm. Halfway through the collection Molinari injected a renegade, grunge element. Insouciance reigned supreme.

Kati Nescher opened the show in a pure white, delicate, point d'esprit, funnel neck peak shoulder jacket with deconstructed cummerbund detail worn spliced open to reveal a transparent mesh tank. Sleeves on the jacket comprised of embroided butterfly lace. Bermuda shorts in matching lace fabric completed the look. White, strappy, T-bar sandals with caged connotations were a bourgeois accessory.

A frothy, ethereal, dainty, butterfly lace strapless dress was body skimming and featured point d-esprit on sleeves and decolletage. A grosgrain ribbon belt attenuated the waist.

Romanticism ruled on a blouse featuring scattered blossoms with ruched cap sleeve detail. A simplistic addition which oozed with insouciance. Strategically placed blossoms were strewn throughout a sheer tank paired with an a-line pencil skirt. Detail comprised of a light imprint of fire engine red and ink.

A nude, barely there look graced a round neck, 3/4 sleeve floor length gown with embroided rosettes. A nude strapless corset slip dress was worn underneath. Butterflies enveloped a high waisted pencil skirt in shades of teak and white with gossamer like qualites. Garden party attire best conjured up the imagery.

The rebel within began to emerge when Yumi Lambert took to the runway in a strapless, ruffled rosette dress complete with mullet hemline, flowers cascading. Black, chunky ankle boots with buckle detail were a fierce addition.

Molinari channelled a modern day Brigitte Bardot reminiscent of her St Tropez days when Anna Ewers modelled a sweetheart neckline, fitted dress with cake like ruffled trimmings in canary yellow. A duchesse silk satin pencil skirt in lemon curd was paired with an empire line, cropped cardigan complete with fur collar and crystallized body and sleeves. A bling worthy, crystal encrusted envelope clutch complemented the look.

A lady bug red, man style blazer was of relaxed proportions,  featuring a white lapel, a provocative sheer mesh tee teamed with masculine, black leather, 3/4 trousers.

A fire engine red, a-line leather pencil skirt was married to a scoop neck blouse complete with silver cobweb embellishment.

A black chiffon, polka dot, deep plunge blouse revealed Ieva Laguna's broad shoulders. The blouse was worn tucked into a monochromatic black and white pencil skirt with sketched flowers printed onto the fabric.

An iridescent silver and black sequin encrusted mini dress was paired with a structured shoulder satin and lace tuxedo jacket. Perfect for the club scene and glitterati. The show drew to a close with a  strapless, cocktail, undulating ostrich feather dress in dove grey, black and silver. Embroided silver fauna completed the look.

By Courtney Jones.

Versace Spring/Summer 2014

Versace Spring/Summer 2014

Queen of glamour Donatella Versace delved deep into new territory this S/S 2014 opening the collection with a series of full round skirts, grazing knee caps. The ingenuity was noted yet the signature Versace woman would be more inclined to yearn for the sleek silhouettes the designer is famed for which progressed as the collection advanced and finally closing with a series of sensual, showstopping eveningwear.

Kailtin Aas opened the show the show in a hip hugging, low slung, knee length full circle skirt. the skirt seemingly appeared to have a lurex finish when in fact comprised of raffia, techy fabric at its best. Chunky, body chains were strewn across the bust and decolletage. A black, flecked, denim, boxy jacket worn spliced at the elbow was complete with suture detail. Strappy, bondage platform sandals lent a vampy feel to the look. 

Denim continued to dominate on an oversized jacket complete with sloping, bouffant sleeves. The jacket was worn fastened from the hemline to the navel to reveal a silk, chiffon, halter bandeau. 

Lindsey Wixon modelled a snug, stretch denim pencil skirt with centre suture detail. A man style, linen shirt worn cuffed oozed of safari connotations.

Undone, rock n roll glamour came in the form of baroque, skinny leg trousers teamed with an indigo, denim shirt worn unbuttoned to reveal fetishistic harness with lion head centre adornment.

Sasha Luss took to the runway in a snow white bandage corset with placket and collar detail. A pearlescent, high sheen, circle skirt swung playfully with every stride Luss made. Polarised chartreuse and bronze, oversized cat eye sunglasses and dove grey strappy sandals were the accessory of choice.

Watercolour ink prints brimming with fluidity came in delectable shades of violet, turquoise, fuchsia, lavender, canary yellow and ebony gracing a series of garments including a cami slip dress, elongated bomber jacket, vest and a relaxed knee length tunic.

Daria Strokus modelled a butter soft, muted lavender, leather, tooled floral blazer worn deconstructed at the base of the lapel. A matching hip encapsulating, libidinous pencil skirt added high voltage sex appeal. The look was finished off with a sheer, halter, bandeau in black.

Newcomer Anna Ewers glided down the runway with innate prowess in a ruched, mauve, body con dress with cross bust drapery. Glistening, capacious chain and suture detail were a juxtaposition of soft versus hard. 

Botanicals flourished on a free flowing languid tunic, ruched sheer pencil skirt, short sleeve blouse, stretch fitted shorts and a racy cut out one piece swimsuit complete with Grecian references.

Rock n roll influences featured heavily on a muscle tank emblazoned with the Versace motif taking a vintage cue from the likes of Aerosmith. Tooled leather shorts in more modest proportions were a sleek and inviting addition. 

Glomesh prevailed on a series of tanks, maxi Goddess dresses and a cowl neck scarf top. Deftly draped, ice blue, disco  glomesh draped a models lithe body in a boatneck, low scoop backless dress with wraparound mini skirt detail.

Stars aplenty will be clamouring to wear a floor length, plunge, v-neck, halter, asymmetrical gown with thigh split in nude and embroided azure, romantic florals devouring the dresses' entirety, finished off with a cross back, halter azure tailored vest.

By Courtney Jones.

 

Rag and Bone Spring/Summer 2014

Rag and Bone Spring/Summer 2014

Designer duo Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag and Bone produced a S/S 2014 collection replete with practically minded pieces brimming with finesse and limpidity.

British model Sam Rollinson with the enviable razor sharp cheekbones opened the show in a simplistic eggshell and white apron style slip dress. Black accents prevailed on mottled, crocodile, peep toe leather booties and a shoulder bag worn cross body style. The stark contrast was offset by a striking tangelo pout created by makeup maestro Gucci Westman.

White, 3/4 length slouch trousers were paired with a sporty apron crop tank in ink. A vanilla streamlined blazer worn open to expose mid torso oozed with liberation. Sporting luxe reigned supreme once again this season.

Utilitarian influences punctuated a crisp white sleeveless shirt paired with a white knee length wraparound skirt. A medium sized flesh shoulder satchel was a chic carry all which accompanied the look.

Freedom of movement was evident on a black oversized, ribbed, plunge v-neck sweater with monochromatic white cuffs and v-neck detail. This in turn was teamed with a renegade 90s inspired grunge, lingerie slip skirt with scalloped hem. A halter, drawstring, crushed velvet dress featuring layered skirt detail was married to a white mesh long sleeve tee worn underneath, Round aviator lunettes added a unconventional edge to the look.

A delectable shade of azure ruled on a round neck, cutaway shift with keyhole detail. A split waist revealed a white chiffon layer, clean minimalism in understated proportions. Turquoise burst against the neon tangerine 'Carnival' Revlon lipstick. Hair comprised of a severe, dramatic, centre part slicked down to the ears with dry texturised tresses from the nape of the neck.

Other standout looks consisted of pale blue, narrow leg track pants with elasticised waist and porcelain pink free flowing languid arabesque tank.An icy silver, luminescent crushed velvet knee length dress was reminiscent of Courtney Love's grunge era. Look to Bec and Bridge's S/S 2014 collection  for a very similar dress in the shade of muted plum. White leather overalls modelled by Marine Deleeuw are sure to fly off the racks. Australian label Friend of Mine have designed a covetable dungaree version. 

The collection was a culmination of vivacity and the irrefutably modern, true to Rag and Bone’s DNA.

By Courtney Jones.

Isabel Marant Spring/Summer 2014

Isabel Marant Spring/Summer 2014

Feminine charm prevailed yet again this S/S 2014 season for Parisian designer Isabel Marant. Delicate pieces oozing with whimsical allure were annealed with leather, grommets and structured arabesques.

Elisabeth Erm opened the collection in a boxy, sharp shouldered tuxedo jacket comprising of elongated torso, satin nonchalant lapels and sleeves worn cuffed mid elbow length. A  layered, white frothy, lace mini dress brimming with innocence produced femininity combined with the tuxedo jacket equalling masculinity. A grosgrain ribbon acted as a sash belt adding casual cool to the equation.

A ruffled pure white camisole with ethereal qualities featured embellished panelling. This look was twinned with leather 3/4 track pants complete with lace up, grommet and blanket stitch pocket detail creating a cutting edge aesthetic. Leather, braided cuffs were the accoutrement of choice.

Hana Jirickova modelled a pair of distressed, muted salmon, denim shorts, deconstructed and frayed throughout were teamed with a lace boatneck top dissected at the shoulder seemingly held together by sutures.

Romanticism ruled on a dramatic, ruffled, sheer jacket featuring sculptural rounded shoulder. A Breton scoop neck tank accompanied the jacket and was complete when paired with relaxed, flesh trouser and beaded tassel lariat. A tiered, leather rah rah skirt with halter layered puristic cami was street or boudoir applicable. Hardened femininity was a reoccurring theme for Marant.

White, broderie anglaise, lace up trousers accessorised with cumbersome plaited leather belt were teamed with pale ice vo vo sheer scoop basic tank and a collarless ruched sleeve and bodice jacket with raw edge ruffle detail.

An indigo wash denim blazer featuring black lapels and sensual lace inserts was pieced together with matching floral lace tee and ivory pink, utilitarian trouser with robust hardware.

Svetlana Zakharova modelled a chiffon, flounce, spaghetti strap, mini dress featuring peach coloured blossoms reminiscent of a Cezanne painting. A leather strip bow belt attenuated the waist.

A dash of insolence was evident on a leather boatneck, long sleeve, drop waist tunic, tiered lace hemline in ultra short proportions. Country and western influences and Marant DNA was mixed with French savvy.

A lace, scalloped triangle bralet was full of enchantment, this was paired with black denim Bermudas and an organza, ruffle shrug.

Footwear continually dominates a Marant collection yet this season Marant didn't quite hit the mark with her rendition of a bulky Mary Jane crossed with a bootie complete with stud and grommet embellishment cascading down the t-bar strap of the shoe. A sturdy, suede cone heel ensured stability. Only time will tell if this shoe is as well received as Marant's famed wedge sneaker.

By Courtney Jones.

Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2014

Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2014

The spell binding concoction of Peter Dundas's famed Pucci formula continued to induce allure and magnetism this S/S 2014 with a stellar line up accommodating the broad clientele of the Pucci devotee. From pop princesses to socialites aplenty the designer tapped into athleticism paired with the staple Florentine scarf print, synonymous with the label.

Joan Smalls opened the collection in a leather, elbow length, perforated cropped tee featuring regal embellished motif comprising of a bejewelled crown housing rubies, sapphires and emeralds aplenty. A tapestry inspired, a-line mini skirt featured the year 1947 emblazoned, the year the Pucci house was founded, surrounded by jolts of bright colours channelling Jamaican references.

Clashing, haphazardous scarf prints dominated a pair of dhoti pants in a kaleidoscope of turquoise and cobalt in sensual satin. A mesh tank was paired with a black sports bra. A cropped, collarless jacket with zebra embroidery was married to a colossal sized boxing belt with the buckle starring an animal head complete with wings.

Andreea Diaconu modelled a beaded, boatneck mini dress with Pucci splashed across the decolletage in striking silver.Hints of Roman gladiator were evident on footwear lending a robust aesthetic to the silhouette.

A cleverly draped skirt appeared weightless, fabric swathed Josephine Le Tutour's hips as she sauntered down the runway with ease. A sweet heart neckline bustier with mosaic like embroidery in a riot of colour completed the look.

Black sequin sarouel pants were a glamorous night time accession. The look was modernised when married to a scuba, sleeveless, funnel neck, toggle, drawstring vest, complete with heavy duty zipper. The vest was anorak inspired and worn layered with a mesh tank.

A cropped parka with oriental kimono references was teamed with a scoop neck, fishnet tank and leather perforated running shorts. Peep toe suede and mesh panelled stiletto booties featured double, velcro ankle straps for a sporty spin.

An Ikat, graphic print poncho was fringed and of boatneck style. An elasticised waist, jogging short with undulating pattern also made an appearance on a sweetheart neckline, bustier, body con dress.

A billowy, diaphanous, parachute silk parka in the classic Pucci scarf print was twinned with a youth driven racer front tank. Liquid metal emulating aluminium foil graced a sci-fi, futuristic, 3/4 length trench modelled by Danish model, Josephine Skriver. The trench was paired with a halter, black scuba one piece, swimsuit, oozing with superhero qualities. The look was accessorised with a leather bumbag worn slung low on the side hips.

A tangerine, funnel neck anorak evoked utilitarian references. The jacket was paired with a 3/4 jodhpur pant in shades of tomato and ink combined with jolts of pewter.

Iridescent, ombre sequins shifted from emerald to burnt paprika, red, mint and cobalt graced a long sleeve mini dress modelled by Sasha Luss. An ethereal mermaid best conjured up the imagery.

A series of high neck, cutaway column dresses featuring oversized white, lurex, crochet were teamed with strapless, shrunken mini dresses adding an unobtrusive feel to the garment.

By Courtney Jones.