Balenciaga Spring 2013

Balenciaga Spring 2013

For Parisian powerhouse, Nicolas Ghesquiere's final collection under the helm of Balenciaga he showcased a stellar line up bursting with ingenuity and purism.

A disparate shift of aesthetic was evident. A profusion of liberated silhouettes with plenty of flesh on display roamed the runway. Ghesquiere conjured up images of sophistication combined with robustness and strictly disciplined garments.

Characterful high waisted skirts featured thigh high splits, oozing with conviction and cascading ruffles.

Masculinity reigned supreme with androgynous pants suits in dove grey, very Emporio Armani.

Bandage body con bustiers were paired with high waisted, tapered leg pant, with pleat hip detail. Fashions current obsession with peplums continued and found there way on to garments adding hints of Spanish ethnicity.

Oversized, rigorously cut, angular bibs offered avant garde qualities. The austerity of the bib was softened with the juxtaposition of shapely, floor sweeping, flounced skirts. A clinical, white trench dress was belted and featured perforated hem and bodice, think clean, minimalistic lines.

A sensual, white lace shirt featured shoulder pad detail, paired with navy, tweed boucle like, kilt mini skirt with gold button detail. Tweed boucle like embroideries also made appearances on bibs, blazers and brassieres.

A succession of saccharine, guipure lace dresses came in shades of muted yellow and powder puff blue. Mosaic, leaf pailettes featured heavily on the closing garments of the show including empire strapless dresses and art noveau shifts.

Triumphant, statement making accessories flourished. Chunky, yellow gold ring bands encased models fingers, fine gold bands were worn as midi rings resulting in hand embellishment which had an overall warrior like effect. Fine, gold chain necklaces with charm detail dangled coquettishly from models necks.

An exceptional preeminent hair accessory ruled the runway and came in the form of a headband complete with silver twig detail yet instead of being worn on the crown of the head it was placed ever so cleverly at the back of models heads, above the ears. This accessory complimented the undone, bed head hair style worn half up, half down.

Footwear included two tonal navy and black lace up bootie heels, which were finished in waxed leather. Conceptual, heeled black brogues offered chic practicality paired with fashion panache. Handbags came in structured shapes of hat boxes, makeup and binoculars cases.

By Courtney Jones.

Saint Laurent Spring 2013

Saint Laurent Spring 2013

Yves Saint Laurent's, Stefano Pilati's successor, fashion virtuoso Hedi Slimane showcased a victorious display for his debut womenswear collection under the helm of the newly appointed Saint Laurent.

The name and logo change stirred up plenty of controversy among the fashion pack. All disputes aside Mr Slimane reminded everyone why he is a true pioneer of fashion.

Slimane delved deep into a dress up box resplendent of all things occult, gothic,Victorian, 70s safari, and bohemian.

Edie Campbell sashayed down the runway in a plunge suede, floor sweeping dress in rich toffee which laced down to the navel. Slimane obviously drew inspiration from the archives of the iconic Vogue Paris editorial featuring statuesque supermodel of the 60s, Verushka in a safari suit by YSL, complete with oversized wide brim hat.

Caped crusaders led the way and made a strong impact on the runway. Diaphanous, floor length capes in an array of materials including classic black felt and sheer chiffon leopard print, very signature YSL were in attendance.

Pussy bows played a starring role in the collection, supersized, poetic, with neo romanticism qualities that oozed of finesse. A profusion of blouses were teamed with this enticing accessory. Shades included biscuit, black and white with fabrics including decadent lace and mousseline.

A stylishly majestic gothic, black lace, tiered mullet dress with waist cincher belt was an enchanting addition. Plenty of delicate whimsy was on display.

A showstopping full length chubby fur coat complete with black and white zig zag pattern in oversized proportions was an absolute knockout. This coat would certainly have a place in the wardrobe of a bourgeois Russian woman, who has a strong penchant for fur. The look was finished off with a fire engine red shirt and black cigarette trousers.

Other garments on the runway included shrunken tux jackets which cut sleek silhouettes, plunge v neck metallic sweaters, Bermuda shorts, western style suede camel jacket with fringing detail on pockets and sleeves, palazzo pants, leather maxi skirts and crocheted kimonos.

Bewitching, low slung wide brimmed hats were a popular addition which emulated a free spirited 70s rock band groupie or the bohemian  qualities of love child Jade Jagger. Other accessories included enigmatic long black leather gloves and gold caged cuffs which engulfed models wrists. Long cord like necklaces featured large tassels which resembled curtain like embellishment. Intricate details were evident on T-bar stilettos which featured rivets on the inner side of the heel, a clever touch. A vertiginous platform court shoe complete with taupe toe cap was a chic, covet worthy item.

By Courtney Jones.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Consummates, Jake McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler produced a conceptual, jubilant line up this spring season.

A manifestation of the irrefutably modern was unimpededly on the agenda. A profusion of architectural lines and the reconfiguration of garments played a starring role in the collection.

A khaki croc, boxy vest with neon splices and croc plackets was teamed with a hipster white, perforated skirt with box pleat panelling. A fine olive and black turtleneck knit was worn underneath.

Athleticism crept in with a series of racer front scuba inspired dresses featuring zippers running vertically along the core of models torsos in a variety of shades including lime green, white and materials in exotic textures including crocodile and snakeskin.

This collection continually broke new ground throughout. A succession of geometric and graphic prints dissected and meticulously sewn back together to reveal haphazardous creations.

Liu Wen modelled a black and white halter dress featuring undulating patterns to highlight the contours of a woman's physique. Exposed shoulders were prominent on the runway, toned arms a must have accessory.

Esoteric digital prints appeared on garments. These included crowd, fauna and beach scenes and an underwater utopia. All of which offered an eccentric touch.

A collarless, waxed leather, cocoon coat, complete with sloping shoulders came in a bold colouring box of satanic red, black and white snakeskin. This was paired with a fitted A-line leather skirt. The juxtaposition of streamlined versus boxy will work well and cater to the broad demographic of the Proenza Schouler audience.

The new 'It' handbag set to rival Proenza Schouler's PS1 this season had an upgrade in the luxury department. It still paid homage to the satchel style which has proven to have plenty of pulling power and seen in a plethora of fashionistas wardrobes. Classic, monochromatic black and white satchels, without a logo to be seen, were prevalent. Envelope clutches came in a mash up of zebra and harlequin prints, metallic and patent panelling with metal ring hardware trimmings.

Wide,black, bandage like chokers were bound around models necks. This lent a strong, disciplined aesthetic to accompanying garments.

Towering, oblique stiletto heels were the footwear of choice. Other styles included peep toe, black, platform, under the knee sandal with cut out back design and a black suede bootie complete with ivory, knife edge, heel. 

By Courtney Jones.

Versace Spring 2013

Versace Spring 2013

Dauntless Donatella Versace delivered another preeminent collection this spring season.

Models were transformed into intrepid, safarian, femme fatales. Donatella delved into new territory with a disparate aesthetic yet remained true to the embodiment of the classic Versace woman.

An exotic sojourn was indubitably on the agenda.

Anna Selezneva emerged on the runway wearing an effortless, energised cool crushed silk boatneck tunic with brazen nude lace paillette inserts. A skinny black studded belt and high heeled gladiator stiletto sandals completed the captivating look.

Generously cut blazers looked as though models had raided their boyfriends wardrobes. This androgyny was teamed with the soft sheer femininity of scalloped lace hemmed shorts and lace bralets offering delicate whimsy.

A bright tamarillo lingerie slip dress was slashed to reveal sultry black lace, this look was toughened up with robust gladiatorial sandals.

A peripatetic, free spirited, desert traveller with a penchant for all things luxe sprang to mind.

Belted utilitarian safari ensembles included ivory tailored shorts and a suggestive suede hipster miniskirt with micro proportions which laced up flirtatiously.

A beckoning teal injected crushed silk shift dress with sheer lace panelling left little to the imagination. Features included a slinky side split and cut out back design. The bare necessities lingerie look was suffused once again with forceful, rugged, gladiator sandals.

Saturated tie dye fabrics featured on free flowing, voluminously sleeved tunics and kaftans.

Anabela Belikova modelled a Grecian goddess inspired dramatic evening dress featuring chartreuse tie dye fabric, cutaway waist detail and thigh high split surrounded by billowy, diaphanous proportions.

For those wanting to add some iridescent shine to their wardrobe, a halter neck metallic fringed mini dress in body con silhouette is sure to light up any dance floor for the effervescent party princess.

Accessories consisted of small, neat clutches featuring leather lattice detail. Boxy croc satchels with Versace logo hardware and pebbled leather satchels featured copious amounts of the amplified chic factor.

Jewellery featured bohemian accents including metallic chokers with a multitude of chains and coins plunging to navel height. Oversized hoop earrings with tassel detail decorated models ears.

This season models hair was transmogrified to reveal a less polished, slightly undone aesthetic. A crown of tousled waves framed models faces. Smoky bedroom eyes accompanied luminous bronzed skin.