Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Design pioneer Isabel Marant delivered a Fall 2015 collection rich in characterful peasant folklore. Tribal, ethnic references were prevalent yet again with Marant delving into familiar territory with her signature earthy, back to nature garments for the intrepid traveller.

Russian supermodel Natasha Poly opened the collection in a generously cut, woven, cape coat with toggle and Ikat print detail. Freedom of movement was on Marant's agenda. The oversized coat was paired to a free flowing silk chiffon, printed, tiered mini skirt. A single, Navajo inspired feather earring dangled from Poly's left lobe. Black, waxed leather buckle midi booties with stacked heel completed the look.

Kate Grigorieva modelled  crisp, blanc, skinny leg, 3/4 denim jeans with subtle ankle flare. Epaulet detail on the outer upper thigh added a military surplus feel. A dove grey, blanket wrap, tunic featured sloping shoulders and a collarless neckline. Claret and ebony zig zag pattern highlighted the tunic. A leather belt was layered to a woven cummerbund, drawing in the waist. A psychedelic, bohemian, high neck blouse accompanied the look.

Ingenuity is embedded into Marant's design DNA- who could forget the famed wedge sneaker? This season she reinvented the waist to feature a ribcage, grazing, paper bag waistline. A surprisingly flattering silhouette which oozed of the energised cool factor. Anna Ewers modelled the updated version in the form of a stretch, white denim skirt. Asymmetrical welt pockets, epaulets and dart detailing added an undeniable charm. A simplistic, oatmeal sweater featured elongated ribbed cuffs and Ikat motif emblazoned across the chest and shoulders.

A voluminous, shrunken, cocoon, floral trench jacket starred in lavender, grape, duck egg blue, rose and white, a botanical delight. An obi belt added oriental influences to the mix. A sheer white, sunray pleat mini was a playful addition which was toughened up by Sergeant Peppers inspired leather boots which are sure to be on every fashionistas covet worthy, lust list. No doubt fashion chain stores worldwide will emulate the footwear design leading to an invasion of teens pounding the pavement in copycat Isabel Marant military boots.

The time honoured mariniere was remodelled to feature in a monochromatic black and white striped, ribbed knit mini dress. A bourgeois accession which was amplified by the addition of gladiatorial, over the knee, suede boots complete with shield inserts. Gold rivets were bolstered to the sides for easy access.

The collection concluded with a series of lighter than air silk tunics, minis, lace up shell tops and mini dresses bursting with delicate whimsy. Artisanal innocence reigned supreme on a standout ivory sheath with transparent torso panels complete with sunburst pleating and oversized, sleeveless armholes with flounce trimming. Cascading ruffles enveloped the lower half of the dress while a robust boxing belt in leather attenuated the waist.

By Courtney Jones.

Dsquared2 Fall 2015

Dsquared2 Fall 2015

Twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 transmogrified models into bona fide Yukon Indians for their latest Fall 2015 collection. The pair drew inspiration from their Canadian roots and were inspired by the mountainous terrain of Canada's wild west.

Caroline Trentini opened the collection in a shrunken, Herringbone blazer which was layered to the perennial favourite, denim jacket. A rustic corduroy waistcoat in the shade of toffee and white skinny leg jeans complete with with oversized pannier pockets concluded the look. A low slung, terracotta belt offset the pants. Mocha, studded stilettos featured fur inserts lending a cultural edge.

High octane energy came in the form of a bohemian suede coat with Mongolian lamb fur trimmings in shades of eggplant, lady bug red and ebony. Sable fur graced the lower half of the coat injecting textural delight. Distressed suede trousers looked as though they had been on a Bear Grylls adventure. Chunky cable knit socks, feathered lariat and colossal sized bejewelled earrings dangled precariously from Vanessa Moody's lobes. A matching statement neck piece added copious amounts of bling to the mix. High neck, full length tribal tattooed body stockings were a hallmark feature worn layered over the majority of runway looks. 

Sunkissed warrior, Kate Grigorieva modelled a black polished Sergeant Peppers inspired coat complete with gold bullion braiding. The structured coat was twinned to a modern day corset dress in herringbone. The feminine mini dress featured sassy gathering with leather drawstring ties. A fur stole in vanilla wheaten was suspended from Grigorieva's hip.

A clash of Spanish matador meets artisan village people was evident on a vermilion silk dinner jacket teamed to a cropped denim jacket, crisp white pussy bow blouse and ebony pantaloon. Gold bullet buttons cascaded down the outer calf for a boost of finesse. Accessories included a luxurious fur stole, sapphire teardrop bib necklace and a tribal infused tote featuring leather tassels, feathers, studs and intricate beadwork.

For the ultimate, statement making cover up, look no further than the fur Ikat print overcoat. A gargantuan fur hood framed Mariana Santana's face injecting cultural globetrotter qualities. Worn belted, the coat fell below the knee and starred in a colour palette comprising of pure white, scarlet, desert sand and chocolate. Not for the timid. Black, slimline 7/8 trousers with bullion braiding were paired to crystal encrusted stilettos. Not exactly ideal footwear for trekking mountains but it added a kitsch glam element to the look.

A colourful Mexican serape skirt was paired to a shearling aviator jacket and basic scoop neck tank accompanied by the tattooed body stocking. Other garments that lit up the runway included fringed ponchos, plaid shirts, cape coats and voluminous billowy maxis reminiscent of Tom Ford's days at the helm of YSL.

By Courtney Jones.

Jayson Brunsdon A/W 2015

Jayson Brunsdon A/W 2015

Australian design virtuoso, Jayson Brunsdon produced a jubilant line up aptly titled 'GLAM' for his A/W 2015 collection.  The seventies decade was prevalent as Brunsdon delved into the realms of Pop Art sensation Andy Warhol for inspiration. Other influences included rock goddess Debbie Harry and pop sensation David Bowie. Brunsdon fused the iconic personalities with the sensuality of French fashion photographer Guy Bourdin's work, resulting in a collection oozing with empowerment and impeccable glamour.

Standouts included the 'Ziggy Jumpsuit' which featured racer front neckline with raven collar and opulent brocade bodice in sumptuous shades of orchid, aqua, cinnamon, ebony, mint and silver. The jumpsuit was nipped in at the waist to reveal high waisted trousers in languid proportions. The look was complete with silver centre plunge zipper and brocade detailing on hip pockets, a dapper accession.

Music idol Blondie played muse to the 'Glitter Rock Jacket' in opalescent silver and black. A boxy, modern day tuxedo jacket bursting with androgyny which was perfect for the rock renegade and a surefire scintillating addition to the wardrobe. A liquid silk fringed scarf accompanied the silk 'Cabaret Shirt'. The shirt was worn unbuttoned coquettishly for a look brimming with allure and insouciance. High waisted black and silver flecked trousers in relaxed proportions featured ice silver waistband detail which concluded the look.

Release your inner disco diva with the halter plunge mini dress. An effervescent party pleaser complete with lustrous silver sequin skirt grazing the upper thigh complemented by a black cummerbund attenuating the waist. A disco ball is mandatory! An iridescent gold sequin version featured short sleeve detail for those wishing for slightly more coverage.

Ostentation reigned supreme on a powder pink 'David Bowie Stole'. A bourgeois accessory and the epitome of all things lavish. Brunsdon teamed the stole to the 'Razor Blade Skirt'which starred in tomato red with asymmetrical stem hem. A cropped, round neck 'Psychedelic Top' featured floral brocade panelling with a distinct oriental twist. Oriental influences continued to dominate on the 'Bianca Gown', a striking, one shouldered evening dress complete with gold floral panelling creating a trompe loeil effect. A provocative thigh split made for a high voltage finish.

Textural mash-ups, in clashing fabrics worked harmoniously together to create a bold statement. A graphic, fuchsia and ebony skinny ribbed knit was married to the 'Glam Rock Pant' in magenta, copper, black and gold flared trousers. An opulent leopard fur stole worn casually over shoulders exuded lavishness.

Polished perfection ruled on the double breasted, above the knee 'The New York Dolls Coat' which emerged in medium bleached denim. Leopard fur adorned the cuffs and collar adding prestige to the equation. Denim lent a modern edge to the garment which had mod-squad connotations.

A ravishing collection delivered with magnetism and conviction. Stylish majesty produced by design king Jayson Brunsdon yet again.

Jayson Brunsdon is available at MYER stores nationally including the Designer Collection, Black Label Collection and Home Collection.

By Courtney Jones.

 

 

Altuzarra Fall 2015

Joseph Altuzarra Fall 2015

Joseph Altuzarra produced a sumptuously divine Fall 2015 collection steeped in luxury. Garments embodied poetic bewitchment which resulted in pitch perfect style.

Maartje Verhoef opened the collection in a vanilla boxy jacket complete with lavish, gargantuan fox fur collar. A high neck blouse featuring ruffle neck trim and sheer lace body adding a defining quality to the look which was finalised with a trumpet hem, midi length skirt in licorice devore with the signature Altuzarra thigh high slit on display.

A barely there, funnel neck, button up lace dress played a sensual game of hide and seek, worn unbuttoned to reveal key hole detail. A mustard, jaffa and chocolate plaid overcoat with flounce hem fell flirtatiously above the knee. Accessorises included a braided strap saddle bag with leather tassel detail in the shade of papaya. Footwear comprised of vertiginous Victorian-esque, knee high intricately laced up boots worn teamed to over the knee lace ruffle socks. Lace continued to blossom on a transparent, wraparound peplum blouse which brimmed with femininity. A matching wraparound pencil skirt with scalloped hem detail, lace bralet and an ebony velvet choker necklace were sublime additions. 

Anna Ewers modelled a plush, fox fur chubby in the delectable shade of fairy floss. A soft petal pink pencil skirt accompanied the look. An absolute headliner with ostentation very much in attendance. A fox fur duck egg blue version also ruled the runway modelled by Ophelie Guillermand.

A seductive butterscotch, stretch leather pencil skirt complete with libidinous centre split oozed with sensuality. An oxblood, structured blazer featured a nipped in waist, oversized safari style pockets and mammoth sable hued collar. Seventies connotations reigned supreme, decadent boho luxe at its best. A boatneck vermilion blouse featured a sheer, deep triangle insert with subtle Aztec print. Mahogany, studded, pointy toed, stiletto knee boots concluded the look.

Metallic accents flourished on a bronze, velvet devore midi length dress with ruffled hem. The neckline came complete with a gossamer ivory lace insert and satin covered buttons worn buttoned to the top with a peek-a-boo keyhole present. The dress was coupled to  a raven, high sheen blazer with shell toned Mongolian lamb fur collar adding a free spirited, rock n roll edge.

The collection concluded with a series of cocktail dresses in regally hued jewel tones. A sapphire, cutaway, midi length dress hugged the torso and swung freely with side split detail. An aquamarine, semi sheer version featured undulating gold and topaz embellishment, shimmering with every stride Ine Neefs made.

An opulent, striking collection sure to delight the Altuzarra woman.

Courtney Jones.