Emilio Pucci Fall 2014

Emilio Pucci Fall 2014

Emilio Pucci's Fall 2014 Collection was replete with consummate class and alluring silhouettes. Nordic, Viking inspired, gargantuan fur coats rocked the runway with panache and flamboyant grandeur. Lavishly embellished cocktail wear featured a treasure trove of adept craftsmanship and the signature Pucci scarf print featured in more subdued shades than previous collections.

Sabrina Ioffreda opened the collection in a salmon, sherbet, black and white scarf print, turtleneck, mini dress complete with diamond and zig zag studded gridding. Calf hair, mottled cow print, under the knee boots made for a busy combination.

A deluxe mink fur coat brimming with ostentation came in the shade of snow leopard with mandarin Ikat inspired trimmings. A sable shade adorned the collar. This was paired to dark chocolate leather boots complete with ankle harness in gold hardware, finished off with an almond shaped toe. A fox stole in honey, fawn and apricot was teamed to a mocha leather plunge tunic with scalloped hem and matching leather coat falling below the hip area.

Velvet, cinnamon, jodphurs with suede inserts were of relaxed proportions, cropped at the ankle. The jodphurs were teamed to a boatneck Pucci print blouse and fox fur overcoat in natural. Gladiator stiletto heels featured leather braided centrepiece and side lace-up detail. Seriously tantalizing footwear. A rustic, serape with ivory fringing screamed Mid West. Shades of ladybug red, ebony and ivory graced the blanket wrap whilst man style, cocoa, waxed leather trousers completed the look.

A mosaic tile, exotic plunge, mini dress with rounded shoulder was a decadent inclusion. Intricate beadwork in shades of coral, and khaki exuded opulence. Less high voltage looks perfect to incorporate into the everyday wardrobe included a suede, military green, relaxed shift dress with key hole detail, gathered neckline and chain detail. This was paired to an aviator, wool, cropped jacket with oversized fur collar in flecked alabaster.

A honey mustard, asymmetrical, Grecian goddess number was a fluid addition comprising of billowy skirt, cleverly draped top swathing Lexi Boling's torso, quite Versace-esque. Saturated hues including bottle green velvet suiting featured on a streamlined blazer, flared trouser which was married to a canary yellow, silk, pussy bow, blouse.

A boatneck, mini dress in patchwork sequin,lace and suede was held together by leather sutures in a body con  arabesque. Ideal for a night time affair. A high-low hem was evident on a scarf print chiffon, floor sweeping dress in flesh and hazel undulating swirls. A ruffled keyhole and gold metallic thread added charm and an iridescent finish.

A series of luminous, molten metal, embellished looks closed the collection. These included a burnished bronze, statement making evening dress worn plunging to the navel, with wraparound skirt and centre split. A cutaway shoulder, halter column dress in antique gold was a labour intensive garment. One can only imagine the painstaking hours needed to complete such magnificent craftsmanship. Definitely an Oscar worthy number sure to light up our screens anytime soon.

By Courtney Jones.

Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2014

Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2014

Anthony Vaccarello's Fall 2014 Collection brimmed of sex infused, rock n roll glamour. High voltage looks that commanded plenty of attention continued to be a hallmark feature for Vaccarello.

The collection opened with a more modest look comprising of an ebony, leather and fur shrunken biker jacket teamed with charcoal, masculine, low slung trousers. Dove grey suiting was spliced to reveal a grey marle tee. A luxurious, ribbed, alabaster turtleneck was paired to an impeccable leather and shearling coat. An androgynous, tailored vest was worn tucked into slouch trousers.

Embellishment played a starring role on an asymmetrical mini skirt featuring bolstered discs and patent leather inserts offering plenty of seductive charm. A distressed, pronounced shoulder, cropped aviator jacket was married to a boatneck knit. Satanic red court shoes with glass sheen were a fierce addition.

Model Nadja Bender emerged with conviction in a saintly white, turtleneck mini dress knit with leopard trompe l'oeil panelling. A black, boiled wool, military inspired overcoat exuded clean, stark, monochromatic lines.

A suggestive, transparent blouse with faint pinstripe detail was worn plunging to the navel. The blouse was paired to a midi length skirt in a techy gloss fabric featuring an overtly sensual thigh high split for a dose of provocation. The look was accessorised with a ribbed turtleneck knitted collar with sterling silver chain and charm layered to bring an iridescent shine. A tooled leather obi belt hugged the waist. 

A leather sweater was punctuated by vermilion bullet holes and layered over a scarlet body con dress. Conceptual art reigned supreme on a black, strapless mini dress with cut out triangle detail and Spanish flamenco, patent flounce.

For the empowered woman, peg leg trousers twinned to a butter soft leather, asymmetrical top with diamond cut out under the bust evoking eighties powerhouse connotations. A glomesh, undulating ruffle caressed Sasha Luss's physique on a leather crew neck, body con, long sleeved mini dress worn belted. Plenty of long, lean endless limbs were on display, a Vaccarello fixture.

Anja Rubik closed the collection in a dare to  bare, sheer mesh top, leaving nothing to the imagination. A satin, floor length trench and ankle grazing maxi skirt with side split toggle detail concluded the look.

Get the Anthony Vaccarello aesthetic in your wardrobe this winter with these runway inspired garments:

Top left grid, clockwise-

METALICUS BY YEOJIN BAE 'Wool Rib Tank Dress' $179.95

AJE 'Catara Mini Skirt' $390

WILLOW 'Reverse Knit Box Top' $250

WITCHERY 'Longline Shirt' $79.95

Bottom right grid, clockwise-

ANTHONY VACCARELLO 'Openwork Dress' $3525

WITCHERY 'Leather Zip Mini Skirt' $199.95

ANTHONY VACCARELLO 'Knit Top' $1167

VIKTORIA AND WOODS 'Phoenix Jacket' $469

By Courtney Jones.

 

Balmain Fall 2014

Balmain Fall RTW 2014

Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain produced a Fall 2014 Collection rich in gladiatorial air. The excess and drama was very prevalent this season. Gone were the saccharine shades of Spring 2014 replaced by a jungle colour palette full of garments exuding modern day warrior, safari and urban hip hop culture.

Jourdan Dunn opened the collection in a khaki, boxy, lavish leather jacket complete with colossal chest pockets and peplum hemline. Leather was butter soft and waxed to perfection. Fluid, silk molten metal cargo trousers produced a languid silhouette. A beaded choker collar and matching wrist cuffs brimmed with Masai connotations.

Exquisite tailoring and finesse featured on a cropped, utilitarian anorak with funnel collar. This was paired to a high waisted pencil skirt with bandage panelling. A starch, pleated peplum belt accessorised the look. Marquetry inspired peep toe midi boots offered artisanal qualities.

Some instances garments lent towards volume overload with more streamlined arabesques hitting the mark.

Balmain favourite Joan Smalls modelled leather, cuffed trousers with capacious cargo pockets. Medieval mixed with military was evident on a gallant, structured top with generously cut shoulder detail. A striking robustness created a sizzling silhouette. Details included silk corded panelling complete with leather inserts. Gargantuan, bamboo, gold hoop earrings screamed of Africa.

A leopard calf hair, cropped, sloping shoulder, cocoon jacket was teamed with an origami wrap top and drawstring trouser of relaxed proportions. A risque, sweater comprising of knitted shoulder detail and corded bodice was held precariously together with gold accented hardware. A faux fur black and metallic spliced, tiered mini skirt was drawn in at the waist by Rousteing's signature boxing belt.

An asphalt toned, cleverly draped, decadent, leather asymmetrical top with sharp shoulder and fluted sleeve was paired to free flowing dove grey trousers with neo siren qualities. Vivid mandarin featured on a high waisted, leather pencil skirt with horizontal, chunky chain panelling.

Animal instincts kicked in with flashes of exotic zebra print. Balmain's famed, cult worthy blazer was updated this season to reveal a longer silhouette. It was collarless with rebellious connotations including black leather and leopard inserts, peak shoulders and worn plunging to the navel. The jacket starred nicely against the full circle, mid thigh length pleated skirt, modelled by Andreea Diaconu.

Anna Selezneva took to the runway in a heavenly snow white, crew neck, ribbed angora jumper. The softness of the jumper worked well with the austerity of the angular leather peplum belt and calf hair zebra pencil skirt in which it was teamed to. Sasha Luss wore a masculine, midnight ink pant suit. The jacket offered clean lines and minimalism. The pants were full of fluidity in liquid silk. The aesthetic oozed of designer Haider Ackermann. A canary yellow top worn underneath was a bold colour addition.

A black and white, graphic, pannier wrap skirt was married to an electric papaya lamb's fur cropped sweater. This sweater also featured in the shade of canary yellow. The bold, decadent fur worked beautifully against Senait Gidley's mocha complexion.

Overall a ground breaking, victorious collection brimming with panache.

By Courtney Jones.

Polo Ralph Lauren Fall 2014

Polo Ralph Lauren Fall 2014 RTW

Ralph Lauren launched his brand new Polo womenswear line at New York Fashion Week. A jubilant lineup bursting with striking, characterful garments with disparate qualities.

The collection opened with a scalloped lace decolletage and cap sleeve, black knee grazing dress worn belted with Lauren's inescapable felt beret. Black leggings were paired underneath. A look I've never personally favoured. Round toe, patent Mary Janes and a drawstring bucket bag with black tassel detail accompanied the dress.

A navy and forest green plaid poetic dress featured a Peter pan collar and puff ball sleeves. A matching plaid mini cylindrical handbag was carried with joie de vivre.

A riot of colour played an integral part in the collection and was evident on a lime spliced cashmere angora knit teamed to a leather mini skirt with kick pleat silhouette. A mint leather duffle bag was slung casually over Martha Hunt's shoulder, oozing of Parisian nonchalance. Other vivid shades to appear on the runway included a bold tangerine cardigan paired to crisp white shirting, a canary yellow overcoat and a jewel toned emerald green parachute parka.

A culmination of effervescent Navajo inspired garments for the free spirited globetrotter were nostalgic of previous Lauren collections. A hallmark feature Lauren is famed for.

Yulia Kharlapanova modelled a desert sand, suede, v neck maxi dress complete with breast pockets, two side splits and was of midi length. A generously cut, chunky, woven colourful serape in punchy shades of vivid red and teal blue supplemented the dress. Accessories included chunky taupe knitted socks tucked into mocha hiking boots and a low slung sterling silver Navajo belt.

A shrunken toffee leather jacket with fringing was twinned to a khaki jersey maxi dress, plaid Ikat press stud shirt and an oversized leather chocolate tote.

Patchwork shirting comprising of florals and plaid was paired to a coffee tweed blazer, leather leggings, turquoise beaded necklace and fedora.

A handkerchief hem was prevalent on a chiffon, floaty, romantic black and vermilion floral dress which was toughened up when paired to a cropped, leather jacket adorned with stud embellishment and multiple souvenir and Scout like badges.

Masculine, boxy, oversized pinstripe suiting of relaxed proportions emulated the eighties with high waisted fluid trousers worn with a russet belt with gold buckle detail. This was teamed to a cherry red plaid shirt, an unlikely combination lending a modern spin.

A lumberjack plaid parka was layered to a black and white double breasted pinstripe blazer, black raglan tee and suede cigarette trouser. Details including lacing from the knee down to reveal a fluted ankle and platform lace up ankle boots. Beauteous bohemian turquoise concho earrings completed the look.

By Courtney Jones.