Prabal Gurung Fall 2013

Prabal Gurung Fall 2013

For Nepalese American fashion designer Prabal Gurung's latest showing the designer appears to have raided an army surplus store, delving deep into the realms of militaria accents, punctuated with modern, sleek tailoring with a grandiose edge.

Military chic was updated with khaki skinny trousers worn bunched around the ankles, teamed with large peplum, flat front jacket paired with luxurious, black, fur snood. A heavily braided leather harness completed the look which resulted in a fashion forward display.

A capacious, chunky cable knit, turtleneck featured exposed shoulders and cut out waist detail.
Robust, spliced, gladiatorial, patella shin boots in crocodile were a covet worthy item, sure to be on the wish list of fashionistas galore.

Perfectly poised modernity came in the form of Ikat Aztec panelling on the cuffs and torso of a waist cinched peplum jacket and an Ikat bustier, duchess silk satin, liquid, tulip skirt.

Provocative, spliced, body con numbers comprising of satin and ponte oozed of femininity with a masculine twist, think mesh inserts and body swathing, bandage strips reminiscent of Roland Mouret's famed 'Galaxy' dress.

Celebrated leather wardrobe staples included cropped, bomber jacket with bouffant sleeves, high waisted flounce skirt and free flowing scoop neck dress, belted, paired with elbow length ruched leather gloves, stylish simplicity at its best.

Eveningwear embodied avant garde warrior like qualities. Spliced, slashed, dramatic, sensual garments included asymmetrical, bandeau, floor sweeping gowns in billowy, glossy silks with plenty of titillating flesh on display. Grecian references were evident on one shoulder, wrap dresses featuring gold sash embellishment. The colour palette comprised of rich navy, khaki, snow white and oxblood.

A series of satin, Florentine renaissance dress numbers consisted of cleverly draped fabric, swathing torsos. The style was evocative of Nicolas Ghesqiere's Balenciaga Fall 09 collection.

Accessories were bold and fetishistic. Spindly, vertiginous, gold, chromatic stilettos were a dangerous addition. Pointy, court shoes featured multiple straps and buckles. Buckled ankle boots were durable and heavy with Cuban heel detail. Bronzed, molten metal, oversized aviators completed the look.

By Courtney Jones.

Roberto Cavalli Pre Fall 2013

Roberto Cavalli Pre Fall 2013

Roberto Cavalli's latest line up was a visual ambiance resplendent of a dark, enchanted forest. Majestic artiness teamed with mannish tailoring were the hallmark features of the collection.

Meghan Collison morphed into creations referencing poetic romanticism imagery.

Heralding looks included an oversized, fox fur coat, tiered in shades of ebony, ivory, nude and coffee paired with cow hide print, pony skin, flared, wide leg trouser, pervading nonchalant ease. A black, androgynous sweater came complete with fur torso panelling and high- low hem.

Cavalli's signature staple tuxedo, a weapon of seduction made an appearance yet again, this time updated with Florence Broadhurst print lapels, black shirting buttoned up to the neck with front flat placket and brooch centrepiece adornment.

A psychedelic, monochromatic, feather printed trench was worn belted, featuring contrasting houndstooth tweed belt and lapels. An impeccably polished, grey black, python, double breasted jacket with anorak characteristics featured luxurious, fur collar which framed Collison's shoulders. Digital lace was plastered over drop waist tunics. Liquid, embellish like scales were evident on a long sleeve, knee length, black, turtleneck dress resulting in the fluidity of an underwater sea creature. Leather jackets featured opulent fur peplums complete with braided waist and shearling collar. The look was twinned with tooled leather, pencil skirts.

Scrawled, calligraphy like digital prints reminiscent of the French artist Toulouse Lautrec's burlesque paintings were found on dramatic, black lace, gossamer chiffon, eveningwear. Think modern day, goth, lavishness.

Velvet suiting was teamed with satin waistcoat and white shirting complete with priests collar.

Swash buckling pirate references crept in on suede, boxy jackets with eyelet detail resembling sutures dissecting and deconstructing the garment.

Bold, characterful jewellery included bejewelled ear climbers, jade knuckle cocktail rings, neck ornamentation comprising of silver bars, gold chains and medieval motif, feathered cuffs complete with multifaceted gems. A diminutive black and gold minaudiere featured gold dragon symbolism, other minaudiere textures included embossed, leather snakeskin. The fox fur theme continued on ankle strap, high heeled sandals in shades of ivory and rustic brown.

By Courtney Jones.

Lanvin Pre Fall 2013

Lanvin Pre Fall 2013

Alber Elbaz's latest offering was a presentation of meticulously refined garments in a throng of grandiose fabrics. Haphazardous prints ruled the collection without a glimpse of tumult to be detected.

Janice Alida opened the show in a Dalmatian leopard print fabric blouson teamed with analogous cigarette leg trouser. Chrome, minimalistic cuffs encapsulated Alida's wrists. A cascading, geometric, chrome neck plate was a covet worthy item. A generously proportioned calfskin envelope clutch in considerable sized leopard print was a swank annexation that completed the look.

The collection had hints of country and equestrian aesthetics with connotations of Hermes and Ralph Lauren. Black, cashmere, blanket wraps and ponchos were paired with ribbed, charcoal knitwear. Black jersey leggings featured reinforced thigh stitching and panelling. Juliana Schurig stood statuesquely in a rich chocolate, fringed, full length blanket wrap teamed with mahogany, round toe, platform, under the knee reptilian boot.

A statement making pony skin zebra print coat featured black leather cuffs.

The cocktail dress of the collection was of true Lanvin style. A satin bandeau with colossal bow back detail paired with tweed charcoal adjoining pencil skirt.

Tweed featured predominantly on a sculptural coat with sateen torso detail and peak shoulder.

A palatial black fur gilet was married with silk sateen stilt trouser featuring daisy embellishment and matching tunic.

A leather, balloon sleeved jacket gathered around the waist, this was twinned with a high waisted waxed leather skirt, black turtleneck and elbow length gloves ruching models forearms.

The presentation closed with a deep vermilion, sweet heart neckline, knee length dress. Key specifics included decorative centre sternum flower and raw tweed seams, a chic, effortless addition.

Accessories comprised of extravagant costume jewellery including silver and gold chunky chain choker, black velvet ribbon woven throughout, centrepiece consisted of a metallic flower pendant. A profusion of layered oversized link necklaces and flower brooches were on offer. A knockout Tigers eye jewelled choker featured strips of silk suspended from models necks. A burnt paprika, snakeskin obi belt was a dapper accession. A navy, ethereal minaudiere was punctuated with crystal encrusted amethyst and rose quartz.

By Courtney Jones.

Preen Designer Profile

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi was founded in London 1996 by Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi. The pair initially met at 18 years of age at an Art Foundation course before reuniting in later life to collaborate on their own line of clothing.

The brand is best known for producing wardrobe fundamentals mixed with a cutting edge aesthetic with hints of punk rock regalia. Characteristics include a play on textures and proportions, architectural lines and sharply tailored minimalistic garments.

A triumphant mix of androgyny paired with unexpected finite detail is the signature formula of the design duo.

Wardrobe staples include digital florals emblazoned on shirting, relaxed man style trousers, chiffon shirt dresses and elongated blazers cutting a sleek silhouette in which an abundance of masculinity is on offer.

Preen has evolved from its early design days yet still managed to maintain and stay true to their design philosophy. Reinvented classics and transformative updates continue in order to keep the label fresh and enigmatic.

By Courtney Jones.

Versace Pre Fall 2013

Versace Pre Fall 2013

For the unstoppable Donatella Versace's Pre Fall 2013 Collection the queen of glamour unleashed a collection rich in punk rock regalia. Ostentation, overt sexiness, and opulence were thrown into the formula resulting in a winning combination of sheer decadence teamed with a celebration of hardened femininity.

Russian model Mila Krasnoiarova opened the presentation in an excessive, knee length, burgundy and orange flecked, oversized, shag vest paired with black, hipster brocade tapered trousers. A sequined, Versace motif, emblazoned muscle tank accompanied the look. Patent, black, vertiginous court shoes with broad ankle strap featured gold, studded hardware. The ankle strap was fastened over the trouser forming a streamlined silhouette.

Wardrobe fundamentals included black skinny leg jeans complete with Romanesque baroque adornment thigh detail, transparent billowy chiffon boatneck blouse featuring plunge v neck opaque detail and a scoop neck empire line stretch satin body con dress featuring side torso embellishment creating a clever optical illusion.

The Versace woman is accustomed to the high octane allure in which their lifestyle entails and Donatella made sure she delivered just that in an array of show stopping furs which oozed of bravado. Standouts included a lavender Mongolian fur vest, plush fox fur latte and grey coat, a lambskin terracotta trench featuring luxurious fur collar and a knee grazing structured ebony fur coat with elbow length sleeves, insouciant stand up collar, drawn together with a cinched chromatic boxing belt.

Sharp tailoring was evident on dove grey jacquard suiting which contained high waisted flat front trousers and cropped blazer in gold chartreuse, a frappucino satin box jacket, sleeves pushed up ever so effortlessly, a shrunken waxed leather jacket with croc sleeves and gold beaded epaulet detail and black damask trousers with gold beaded piping.

Accesories were a strong focal point of the collection and consisted of copious amounts of bling. An abundance of yellow gold jewellery was displayed throughout. A chunky gold neckplate was ensconced with rubies and emeralds, gold bauble cuffs were twinned with matching ring, gold chokers, chains and lariats also proved to be popular reinterpretations. Cocktail knuckle dusters and signet rings were arresting inclusions. Bold, statement, dripping jewels packed serious punch, think aquamarine, amethyst and emerald bracelets. Handbags comprised of mauve grey and teak rose structured doctors bag featuring gold rivets and centre zip expansion, a black and gold brocade doctors bag, military insignia emblazoned bags and a small croc satchel with gold chain handle.

By Courtney Jones.

Vera Wang Pre Fall 2013

Vera Wang Pre Fall 2013

Vera Wang delivered a majestically, sumptuous Pre Fall 2013 Collection, punctuated with oriental magnetism.

Kel Markey opened the show in a burnished, molten, iridescent, raised flower motif shift dress with shoulder pleating detail, waist cinching black leather belt complete with asphalt, elbow length, slouch leather gloves. Sheer, ribbed, black ankle socks bunched around models ankles. Chocolate, peep toe platforms were the preferential footwear. 

Jacquard and damask fabrics resembling rich tapestries exuded regal qualities. A decadent, opulent, amethyst brocade blazer with elongated sleeves and matching tapered trouser was a dapper accession. A black lace blouse featured an oversized, grosgrain bow neck tie. 

Saturated hues of magenta and scarlet highlighted embroided, scalloped hemmed, shifts accompanied by mocha fox fur chubbies. The brocade theme continued on narrow, floor sweeping column skirts, peplum and ruffled hemmed tanks and cleverly draped jacquard wrap dresses swathing models torsos.

East meets west orientalism glided in on modern day, cutting edge, drawstring neck kimono featuring flared sleeve twinned with a tulip skirt.

Tuxedo style chiffon wrap jackets were a sculptural, avant garde addition with a play on proportions. A sleeveless, button up blouse married with embellished, silver rosette applique panelled skirt possessed Japanese influences. A satin, chocolate box trench with beaded collar and pocket detail was a covetable garment. Other standout garments included cocoon shrugs, pussy bow blouses, a lace damask jacquard embellished panelled boatneck dress and molten metal lace shirting.

Jewellery comprised of a series of embellished neck collars and chokers often featuring undulating forms. Ombre and black two tonal leather elbow length gloves were a stylish addition.

Trend prediction alert- Brocade Baroque will host a large presence in Australian Autumn / Winter collections. Key pieces to look for include; brocade sharply tailored blazers, velvet and corded flares, religious scenes plastered on body con numbers, high necked lace blouses, tapestry hotpants, paisley jeans, leather lace up skinnies, embellished hobos, patent pumps and ruffles aplenty. Shades include wine, sapphire, emerald, ruby, gold, bronze and ebony.

By Courtney Jones.

Gucci Pre Fall 2013

Gucci Pre Fall 2013

Gucci designer Frida Giannini's latest Pre Fall 2013 offering consisted of an admirable line up of refined finesse without a hint of ostentation. An integral part of the collection featured strictly disciplined garments with defined silhouettes whilst on the other end of the spectrum poetic, freedom of movement eveningwear was bursting with vivacity and pulchritude. Consummate class prevailed, one of the hallmark features of the Gucci house.

Polished, demure, lady like garments included khaki, baroque, digital lace print dress, complete with subtle, sculpted shoulder detail and midi length sleeve, a boiled wool double breasted coat with flared sleeves and nipped in waist, a bold leopard ponyskin exotic trench with sleek black skinny trousers worn underneath and a mahogany covered button cheongsam pillow sleeve dress.

Luxurious, decadent fur wrap tops coquettishly enveloped models shoulders oozing old Hollywood glamour. Feminine pencil skirts grazed models knees and featured vertical flounce detail.

Equestrian and military influences crept in on garments and were evident on a tailored, simplistic, olive boatneck knee length dress with button shoulder detail, cropped pea coats, teal military coat cut with precision, married with plush leopard fur collar.

A profusion of tartan garments made their way down the runway and had qualities reminiscent of Ralph Lauren collections. An oversized, tartan print chiffon halter neck dress was midi length and modelled by Karmen Pedaru. A maroon tartan shell top with matching slimline cropped trouser lent an elongated silhouette. A tartan peplum wrap jacket had features resembling ponchos, blanket wraps and pashminas.

Enchanting lace numbers frequented the runway and included a succession of enticing dresses featuring baroque lace off the shoulder body skimming numbers, scalloped lace keyhole insert, peak shoulder floor grazing eveningwear. A delicate chiffon polka dot high neck blouse with lace motif conjured sheer femininity.

Accessories consisted of T-bar leopard and patent court shoes with dainty bow detail, long black and leopard leather gloves which ruched up models forearms, large black and leopard totes with bamboo handles, envelope clutches with buckles bolstered as centrepieces and oversized belts played a starring role with gargantuan square buckles and eyelets in gold hardware. Jewellery included two tonal gunmetal and bronze bullet collars and chocolate hexagonal multi faceted statement cuffs.

Hair was worn with a side part and luxurious curls cascading over models shoulders. Lips were deep mahogany and eyes soft, smouldering in delectable shades of mocha.

By Courtney Jones.