Balmain Spring / Summer 2014

Balmain Spring / Summer 2014

Olivier Rousteing produced a divergent silhouette this S/S 2014 season which was an audacious move for the designer who has built an empire on the body con arabesque. The staple flesh baring garments still managed to make an appearance yet this time the sex was toned down for a more modest approach. Think Balmain paired with a dose of Chanel.

The opening look modelled by Elisabeth Erm consisted of an oversized, sloping shouldered, houndstooth jacket reminiscent of something you would find in a martial arts studio. The rigid jacket was attenuated by a monochromatic boxing belt featuring large chain link detail. A leather knee grazing flounce skirt with hi-lo hem was paired with a perforated leather midi boot with pointy patent toe cap detail. The look was accessorised with gargantuan gold chain cuffs which engulfed wrists.

Rather than Balmain's classic cropped skinny leather trouser, Rousteing opted for a relaxed man style trouser this season which was married to a college baseball bomber jacket, quilted with leather collar and placket. A pinstripe tank was worn underneath evoking true American sporting references.

An ivory, quilted, high waisted, a-line skirt with centre plunging button detail was teamed with a sheer nero Vichy check tank oozing with ladylike demure and Chanel connotations. This look was modelled by Rosie Huntington Whiteley who made her catwalk comeback debut.

A standout pair of leather overalls featured  a rounded, sculptural shoulder. The overalls were worn loose and androgynous with heavy duty gold accent press studs adding just the right amount of polish. A basic white tee was worn underneath the overalls for a shot of masculinity.

A mid blue, denim wash, off the shoulder top, came complete with horizontal chain sutures. The look evoked the 80s and concluded with paper bag waist, free flowing denim trousers worn tapered at the ankle. Matching denim quilted boot with metallic gold toe cap was the footwear of choice.

Balmain's famed mini dress returned in the shade of pure white complete with satin quilted bodice, bevel shoulder ruched sleeve with grommet suture detail and white feathered hemline. The dress was drawn in at the waist by the staple chain boxing belt.

Czech model Hana Jirickova, dubbed the next Kate Moss, wore a bleached chambray, crystal encrusted, structured shoulder blouse worn cuffed at the elbow complete with leather inserts which texturalized the semi transparent panelling. High waisted, quilted, flat front trousers with four gold Medusa head buttons, brimmed of the 70s with a splash of Versace in the mix.

Closing runway looks appeared deconstructed with artisanal qualities, combined with heavy embellishment. A very ostentatious collection for the woman who beckons to be noticed.

By Courtney Jones.

Zadig and Voltaire Spring / Summer 2014

Zadig and Voltaire Spring / Summer 2014

Dishevelled, yet polished panache and Parisian glamour were the words that best conjured up the imagery of Zadig and Voltaire's S/S 2014 Collection.

Cecilia Bonstrom's latest display was the epitome of effortless, undone chic.

Hanne Gaby Odiele opened the show with plenty of swagger, modelling a slip dress, cascading mid thigh with grey scalloped lace trimmings. A collarless black and white woven rabbit fur jacket was accessorised with black cuffs resembling hardware and dainty gold bracelets. Cumbersome versus fragility were the juxtapositions prevalent. Delicate gold rings encased fingers.

Black, leather cropped trousers with reinforced pockets and side panelling were teamed with an embellished, antique lace blouse in the shade of white, kaftan style. A black fedora and chain handle shoulder handbag featuring leather tassel detail concluded the look.

A black leather, shrunken moto jacket complete with quilted shoulders was married to a jacquard bralet with a smattering of subtle crystals.

A Navajo inspired belt, worn slung low on the hip was teamed with a black mini skirt, layered with sheer lace, sequin adorned harem pants, only for the fearless.

A black silver, snakeskin, jacquard asymmetrical dress for after five, was accessorised with a statement making, black leather fringed shawl. Urban cowgirl crossed with luxe bohemian hippie best described the look.

Purism came in the form of white slouch suiting with relaxed proportions. The suit was worn with a silk camisole. Yellow piping detail on the trousers added an unexpected element to the look. A leather lace up, silver mesh tank was paired with a billowy, floor sweeping, dramatic lace kimono, reminiscent of dark gothic glamour. For a more affordable price point look to label 'For Love and Lemons' whose aesthetic is analogous.

Grunge elements were evident on a strapless, leather onesie worn mid calf with a strong dose of nonchalant appeal. A drop waist with pleat detail and spike trimmings lent a creative edge. A liquid gold sequin blazer with structured shoulder was coupled with a sheer, gold lurex tee dress, deconstructed at the neckline. A black triangle bra and knickers were worn underneath for modesty.

Jolts of venetian and candy apple red were found on barely there crochet knits spliced with black and white sporadic inserts. A dip dye woven rabbit fur coat, falling mid thigh complete with white fur trimmings was teamed with distressed, bleached denim shorts.

Covetable bijoux launched this season and colossal cross stud earrings and mixed metal bracelets were lust worthy accessories.

The staple Zadig and Voltaire grey and white snakeskin print appeared on a onesie teamed with metallic silver crocodile clutch and flat black buckle futuristic silver moto boots. Lurex socks made another runway appearance with designer Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent showcasing comparable socks just days earlier in Paris.

Mid western references crept in on a excessively fringed leather mini skirt,leather shell top with fringing descending over the bust and lastly a boatneck leather dress skimming the body.

By Courtney Jones.

Saint Laurent Spring / Summer 2014

Saint Laurent Spring / Summer 2014

Uber cool designer Hedi Slimane's current spring/summer 2014 collection generated undertones of grunge, rebellion, androgyny, with a devil care attitude and a heady mix of raw sex appeal. A highly wearable collection,with desirable, edgy pieces beckoning to be worn by rock n roll femme fatales.

Edie Campbell opened the show in a sharp, padded shoulder, plunge to the navel, crystal encrusted mini dress channelling galatic references. The dress seemed to have drawn inspiration from the house of Balmain or the more affordable Brian Lichtenberg.

A lady bug red, lip motif was plastered throughout, a peak shoulder, deftly draped wrap dress reminiscent of Diane Von Furstenburg. A tiered, heavy duty bike chain collar lent a punk edge.

A boxy, dove grey houndstooth tuxedo jacket in mannish proportions was paired with a matching subtle peg leg, tailored trouser. Accessories comprised of a skinny leather tie, skinny belt, black court shoe with practical mid heel and ornamental, crystal, ear climber.

A molten metal and black candy striped blazer with black leather lapel detail was twinned with coordinating mini skirt pared back with a classic white shirt, creating a balance of embellishment versus minimalism.

Lanvin connotations were evident on a one shoulder, cocktail prom mini dress with a strong nod to the 80s era. An iridescent sheen was prevalent on the cleverly draped dress featuring asymmetrical hemline and a prodigious bow sleeve which acted as a strong focal point.

An embossed undulating high waisted leather skirt was married to a cropped, boxy blazer with sateen lapels. A scoop neck mesh tank accompanied the look. Reptilian platform pumps with metal, snake, toe cap detail, concluded the look.

Military references crept in on a bouffant sleeved, khaki, cropped, military jacket. A transparent black shirt with opaque placket and collar was worn underneath. A leather, a-line mini skirt was followed by pearlescent, ribbed, glitter ankle socks paired with ankle strap pump.

Debbie harry seemingly came alive on the runway in a bubblegum pink and black stretch sequin bandeau and molten leopard body con skirt. A grommet infested bow featured on a textured, ebony, leather pump.

A leather biker jacket with oversized, ponyskin, zebra lapel was softened by a whimsical, gossamer effect skirt overlay flowing diaphanously as Linn Arvidsson strode down the runway. A lustrous, collarless cape jacket with split sleeve detail was teamed with a plunge neck, emerald green billowy mini dress with black mesh underlay.

Geometric associations played out on a graphic, optical illusion, monochromatic chiffon dress with puff sleeve and high-low side hemline worn with second skin leather leggings.

The show closed with a series of attention vying dresses. A striking effulgent sequin encrusted, vivid vermilion and black tiger boatneck mini evening dress served up serious attitude yet was sweetened by a black sequin, bow belt and futuristic silver kitten heel lace up ankle boot.

By Courtney Jones.

Michael Kors Spring / Summer 2014

Michael Kors Spring / Summer 2014

Venerable, American designer Michael Kors served up a potent mix of effervescent clothing mashed up with classicism and distinguished lines for his Spring / Summer 2014 Collection.

Kors campaign star, Karmen Pedaru opened the show in a crisp white, tailored blazer worn buttoned mid torso, attenuated further by a slimline, honeycomb, leather belt. This was teamed with a free flowing, under the knee, bias cut skirt. Pedaru carried an oversized woven envelope clutch, oozing with Kors DNA.

Sasha Luss modelled a taupe, v-neck, knee cap grazing, white and fawn floral print dress.Perfect for a high tea, baby shower or wedding. A 50s silhouette prevailed, bursting with charm. 

Luminous, bronzed skin was the blank canvas for a staple safari suit worn by newlywed Bette Franke. The look comprised of a cap sleeved, double breasted vest in latte twinned with matching culotte. A youthful, stylish addition for the warmer months.

Fur for summer you say? That was on Kors' radar, with an ivory fur chubby married with a chiffon, pussy bow blouse and taupe pencil skirt with centre split. Fur continued to make an appearance on a stole thrown casually around the shoulders of model Lindsey Wixon. This was paired with a duck egg blue pinstripe shirt, indigo denim high waisted shorts which were accessorised with gargantuan tortoiseshell sunglasses, very Jackie O and a toffee croc handbag and plaited leather belt.

Texture came in the form of crochet with many pieces baring artisanal qualities. A grey crochet cardigan was paired with matching knee length dress.

Limpidity reigned supreme on a waxed leather, short bouffant sleeved, zip up, shell top in honeycomb. Irrefutably modern and sculptural. The shell was teamed with a neutral, relaxed silhouette, mini skirt with youthful connotations.

Lace which continues to be an inescapable fixture with designers made an appearance on a muted navy, delicate round neck dress. Tiered, short lace sleeves added a feminine, ethereal touch. The dress was updated with a navy, snakeskin belt and matching platform Mary Janes.

Rustic knits came in the form of a charcoal ribbed crop knit paired with a cappuccino, python, high waisted skirt. Other knits included a generously cut cardigan and a cashmere crew neck sweater.

A profusion of prints brimming with pulchritude were apparent on poetic dresses featuring pillow sleeves, pussy bow collars often layered with a knitted vest conjuring up imagery resplendent of a preppy librarian.

A standout look modelled by Nadja Bender consisted of a sassy, chocolate and white large fauna print bandeau married with high waisted pencil skirt. The look oozed of St Tropez and Brigitte Bardot. Accessorise with cat eye sunglasses for the finishing, screen siren, touch!

By Courtney Jones.