Balmain Spring / Summer 2014

Balmain Spring / Summer 2014

Olivier Rousteing produced a divergent silhouette this S/S 2014 season which was an audacious move for the designer who has built an empire on the body con arabesque. The staple flesh baring garments still managed to make an appearance yet this time the sex was toned down for a more modest approach. Think Balmain paired with a dose of Chanel.

The opening look modelled by Elisabeth Erm consisted of an oversized, sloping shouldered, houndstooth jacket reminiscent of something you would find in a martial arts studio. The rigid jacket was attenuated by a monochromatic boxing belt featuring large chain link detail. A leather knee grazing flounce skirt with hi-lo hem was paired with a perforated leather midi boot with pointy patent toe cap detail. The look was accessorised with gargantuan gold chain cuffs which engulfed wrists.

Rather than Balmain's classic cropped skinny leather trouser, Rousteing opted for a relaxed man style trouser this season which was married to a college baseball bomber jacket, quilted with leather collar and placket. A pinstripe tank was worn underneath evoking true American sporting references.

An ivory, quilted, high waisted, a-line skirt with centre plunging button detail was teamed with a sheer nero Vichy check tank oozing with ladylike demure and Chanel connotations. This look was modelled by Rosie Huntington Whiteley who made her catwalk comeback debut.

A standout pair of leather overalls featured  a rounded, sculptural shoulder. The overalls were worn loose and androgynous with heavy duty gold accent press studs adding just the right amount of polish. A basic white tee was worn underneath the overalls for a shot of masculinity.

A mid blue, denim wash, off the shoulder top, came complete with horizontal chain sutures. The look evoked the 80s and concluded with paper bag waist, free flowing denim trousers worn tapered at the ankle. Matching denim quilted boot with metallic gold toe cap was the footwear of choice.

Balmain's famed mini dress returned in the shade of pure white complete with satin quilted bodice, bevel shoulder ruched sleeve with grommet suture detail and white feathered hemline. The dress was drawn in at the waist by the staple chain boxing belt.

Czech model Hana Jirickova, dubbed the next Kate Moss, wore a bleached chambray, crystal encrusted, structured shoulder blouse worn cuffed at the elbow complete with leather inserts which texturalized the semi transparent panelling. High waisted, quilted, flat front trousers with four gold Medusa head buttons, brimmed of the 70s with a splash of Versace in the mix.

Closing runway looks appeared deconstructed with artisanal qualities, combined with heavy embellishment. A very ostentatious collection for the woman who beckons to be noticed.

By Courtney Jones.