Monday, October 19, 2015

ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

French designer Isabel Marant channelled the cultural lineage of North India's Rajasthan for her Spring 2016 collection. A colourful display was on offer bursting with distinctive Marant hallmark features for the bohemian globetrotter with a taste for all things embodying nomadic luxe.

Model Zuzu Tadeushuk opened the show in a cuffed, parachute silk, harem pant, which tapered at the ankle. The hip hugging pants offered freedom of movement and brimmed of energised cool. An ebony kimono inspired jacket was paired to an artisanal overcoat complete with frayed, raw effects hem and colourful embroidery in shades of magenta, silver, raven and fuchsia.

A pristine serape was updated with pearl trimmings and worn asymmetrically for a modernistic approach. White, effortless, peg leg trousers were an understated addition. Bold, strappy, rope entwined heels offered a gladiatorial air. A canary yellow chunky choker and lariat added a jolt of colour to the neckline.

Metallic pewter accents highlighted a relaxed, bouffant sleeve, hooded anorak which billowed with every stride Lexi Boling made. A ribbed, funnel neck, knit in milk was worn tucked into black knitted, high waisted briefs. Nautical rope pool slides concluded the look.

Danish theater actor turned model, Mathilde Brandi ignited the runway in scintillating, ice silver, sequin briefs. Ethnic Indian inspired wares continued to frequent the runway and dominated on a mirrored, embroidered, fringed tunic. The characterful garment featured high neck,  structured shoulders, 3/4 frayed sleeves and subtle peplum; an effervescent garment brimming with undeniable charm.

The classic white shirt was updated in an oversized, man style, arabesque complete with darting, gargantuan chest pockets, tabs and a button funnel neck. High waisted shorts in a fabric resembling aluminium foil were cut high on the thigh and radiated beautifully against the stark, white shirt. Tomato red, gladiator, rope sandals in cumbersome proportions were the footwear of choice.

Frenchy Josephine Le Tutour transmogrified into a bona fide, deluxe, jet setting hippie in a boxy, peak shoulder vest which was married to a pewter, lamé, voluminous blouse and a shrunken, ivory, sequin embellished jacket. Cuffs featured embroidery in a riot of colour. Shades included cumin, teal, paprika and bronze. Pearls and frayed trimmings punctuated the hemline. Monochromatic, pinstripe dhoti pants were of relaxed proportions. Ine Neefs modelled a full length overcoat version of the cropped ivory jacket which was teamed to liquid, iridescent, mercury hued sweat pants,oozing with insouciance. A combination rich in techy sportswear references.

Archival remnants continue to shine and will no doubt appeal to Marant aficionados galore.

By Courtney Jones.

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