Carla Zampatti S/S 14/15

Carla Zampatti S/S 14/15

Australian designer Carla Zampatti celebrated her 49th anniversary in the fashion industry this year and her MBFWA Spring/Summer collection titled 'Darker' did not dissatisfy. Avant garde, contemporary contours played a starring role in the collection offering cultivated beauty and grace.

Aussie export Nicole Pollard opened the collection in a structured, crepe, jumpsuit featuring clean, minimalistic lines with flared trousers producing a languid silhouette. A simplistic black band choker and wrist straps accompanied the look.

A boatneck, peak shoulder, floor grazing column dress oozed with sleek, Zen like qualities. The look was complete with a waxed leather belt attenuating the waist. Footwear comprised of bondage inspired strappy sandals brimming with attitude.

Former ANTM winner Amanda Ware emerged wearing a standout body con, jersey bolero twinned to a navel baring bandeau paired with waist hugging fluid flares in ebony.

Masculinity reigned supreme on an oversized tuxedo with deep plunge jacket and crepe 'That 70s Bell-Bottom' pant complimenting the look, think a modern day version of YSL's Le Smoking tuxedo.

Garments took style cues from Tom Ford's 2002 YSL collection with grosgrain ribbons adorning the chest. A model strode with conviction wearing a diaphanous porcelain, georgette shirt with dolman sleeves worn tucked into a high waisted, floor length, crepe noir skirt with side split allowing for freedom of movement. The shirt trailed elegantly behind.

Stephanie Carta made a return to the runway in a chartreuse, high-low full skirt, grazing the mid thigh. A daisy, texturised, strapless bustier and body con bolero finalised the look.

Provocation dominated on an alluring black lace cocktail dress featuring dare to bare colossal key hole detail. Lace also played a starring role on 'Sheer Perfection' bell bottoms which were married to a chiffon, transparent halter top modelled by Rachel Rutt. Impeccable tailoring was evident on a sculptural snow white blazer complete with shoulder rosette embellishment. A fitted, stretch, pencil skirt was a polished addition. Fragility, ethereal, feminine qualities ruled on a strapless, chiffon dress with gossamer a airiness present.

A Grecian Goddess inspired creation came in the form of an ivory, floor length dress consisting of nude fabric swathing the decolletage lending the appearance of a strapless dress. A fifties inspired, sheer ribbon banded dress with crinoline skirt was a majestic accession which would've looked stunning on screen siren Grace Kelly. 

Electric cobalt blue lit up the runway on a series of garments including a pulchritudinous evening dress and skirt, feather chubby and a georgette 'Cleopatra' gown which was an impressive number.

Maddison Brown closed the collection in a tangerine, cropped, ostentatious feather chubby teamed to a georgette, halter, handkerchief hem dress. A clear plastic visor accompaniment lent a sci-fi edge.

By Courtney Jones.

Q&A with Australian designer Kelli Wharton of womenswear label, Talulah

Q and A with TALULAH designer, Kelli Wharton

EASTERN SUBURBS NEWSPAPERS- What was the driving inspiration behind your Mercedes Benz Spring / Summer 14/15 collection?

KELLI WHARTON- Crystal tropics was designed for exotic vacations and spring oceanside escapes, silhouettes are soft and feminine, juxtaposed with strong graphics, detailed finishes and silk fabrics to instil confidence in its wearer.

Splashes of spring florals play through print, decorating one piece bodices, beach sarongs, silk maxi dresses, paisley shorts and kaftans. Innocent whites whisper springs new romantic sensuality,

with crochet apparel and sheer panelling finishes, while frilled details enhanced bikini separates that are mixed and matched for eye catching and feminine beachside combinations.

ESN- Which garments from Talulah's S/S 14/15 Collection would you pack for the ultimate summer, exotic, sojourn?

KW- There are too many to choose from! This is one of my favourite collections yet – but I say that every season. A standard that we have featured in one of our campaign images and look book is the Sail Away Mini Dress. A white summer dress with soft tropical print and layered white fringing – the ultimate throw on to take you from pool to bar on your next vacation.

ESN- Complete this sentence: The TALULAH young woman embodies...

KW- Creativity, confidence and femininity.

ESN- You've created a swimwear line, Talulah Swim and a High Street line, Isla by Talulah. Any plans to branch out into anything else?

KW- We have some exciting new product lines launching this year including a TALULAH homewares range using the TALULAH prints and brand aesthetics.

ESN- How important is social media to your business? Do you use those platforms for specific purposes?

KW- Social media allows us to have personalised shopping experiences with our customers, communicate our brand aesthetics through different channels and to different customers and provide exceptional customer service for each customer that engages with the brand 24/7.

ESN- What is a typical day for you and your team?

KW- My family and I are lucky that we share our office and home with the beautiful surroundings of Byron Bay and its beaches. In A typical day my husband and I are up  early with our two children, drop them off at day care and then head over to join our TALULAH team at TALULAH HQ. Every day is busy in the office, but we are lucky that everyone who is part of our team loves what they do. Plenty gets done in a single day, but the day’s definitely run away with you. My husband is company Director and I am Creative Director for the TALULAH business and each of our brands that fall under the TALULAH title. In a typical day I share my time between designer new ranges, working with our Sales and Marketing Manager and leading the creative direction for the business.

ESN- Where did you attain your design acumen?

KW- I have always been creative. When I was younger I would design apparel and sell to local boutiques. As the demand for my designs grew I refined my skill to showcase a consumer collection at fashion week. This was where TALULAH was born. Since launching in 2005 I have built a team of creative women around me to help build on my own design skills, to grow the TALULAH brand that has a team of female talent behind it.

By Courtney Jones.

Saint Laurent Fall 2014

Saint Laurent Fall 2014

Designer Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent produced a fall 2014 collection rich in sixties, English rock references. Free spirited, poetic gypsies ruled the runway. Creative muses played a driving force in the collection. The show commenced with model grace Hartzel emerging on the runway wearing a look that comprised of scintillating silver and black leopard print, v-neck mini dress, accessorised with a slimline armour belt, opaque black stockings and a monochromatic spotted tweed overcoat. Footwear consisted of sleek, under the knee, patent boots with mid block heel.

A red tartan, a-line mini was worn tucked into pristine, crisp white shirting, accessorised with an oversized satin bow. A boiled wool double breasted coat completed the look. Make-up was Twiggy inspired, think false eyelashes teamed with lashings of mascara and thick winged liquid liner oozing with sixties mod squad references. 

A Peter Pan collar featured on an ebony, velvet, mini, baby doll dress. Jewel encrusted, silver, decorative buttons added a touch of ostentation. Shrunken tweed suiting featured on a sharp shoulder, cropped, single breasted jacket with 3/4 sleeves. A high waisted a-line mini skirt was paired to the classic, staple white shirt. Bronze foil brocade starred on a jade turtleneck mini dress worn layered to a heavenly white fur coat. The dress was attenuated by a black lame bow belt. Narrow, almond toe glitter boots in the shade of bubblegum pink were an addition for the young at heart.

A navy plaid cape coat was twinned to a funnel neck, scarlet, leopard mini dress featuring centre front seam and iridescent molten sleeves finalised the look. This in turn made for a haphazardous combination. The covetable black, statement making fedora was back again this season yet the proportions were downsized dramatically from Saint Laurent's previous S/S 2013 RTW collection.

Gold stencilled guns cascaded over a black funnel mini dress. A tough luxe, leather, shrunken jacket with heavy duty hardware including silver studs screamed rock n roll. Gargantuan gold discs dangled precariously from Harleth Kuusik's lobes. A calf hair noir coat with leather placket and trimmings was married to a shimmering mod squad mini dress. A slimline boot with studded panel embellishment offered a chic take on luxury grunge.

Polka dots made an appearance and were evident on a transparent blouse paired to high waisted, butterscotch mini skirt and cropped androgynous leather jacket in a boxy arabesque. Lustrous, gold glitter, Mary Janes wouldn't look out of place on Dorothy from The Wizard Of Oz. The time honoured safari dress was updated in liquid gold leather, worn belted and of body con style. Toffee, suede, under the knee desert boots with opaque stockings completed the look.

The bohemian, artists muse appeared in a kaleidoscope of fur strewn together to form a standout cape coat. For the enigmatic, a black fedora was slung low over the eyes. A fringed leather mini skirt with silver rivet hardware was teamed to a lame blouse and glistening silver glitter boots oozing of discotheque attire.

An alluring ruby red, lame, Marilyn Monroe inspired, deep plunge halter dress was modernized with skater mini dress proportions.

This collection offered countless style combinations. Classic shapes were reworked to put an edgy spin on garments.

By Courtney Jones.

Zadig and Voltaire Fall2014

Zadig and Voltaire Fall 2014

French label Zadig and Voltaire's Fall 2014 Collection offered prestige, magnetism and practically minded pieces for the renegade within.

Fashion heavyweight Kirsten Owen made her debut return to the runway, opening the collection in a utilitarian parka accessorised with plush, colossal, fur flecked collar. A sheer, alabaster, lingerie inspired slip dress with bust embellishment was a barely there accompaniment. The look was hardened with masculine midi boots. It appeared as though designer Cecilia Bonstrom delved deep into Marc Jacobs's grunge element archives. Undone bed head tresses oozed of devil may care attitude.

A burnt persimmon, fine, crew neck knit was paired to chiffon culottes and forest khaki, boiled wool aviator jacket. Hands were adorned with fingerless gloves. Bet you haven't sported those in a while!

A ribbed black beanie was twinned to a fire engine red and black sumptuous fur coat, brimming with charisma. A cosy addition for the cooler months. A slip dress, inspired mini dress lent an androgynous connotation, screaming energised cool.

Hanne Gaby Odiele took to the runway with unashamed gusto in a sassy grape and ebony shag overcoat which was married to gathered waist, relaxed fit shorts. A pyjama inspired button up blouse with oriental inspired print was layered to a mahogany knit and full length black cardigan. A charcoal grey structured overcoat was a dapper accession. This was teamed to a graphite, ribbed boatneck knit dress layered over a tangerine tank dress, attenuated by double, skinny, studded leather belt in white and tangelo.

Sequins played a starring role in the collection and featured on an effervescent, rock n roll, plunge, boxy mini dress, hip grazing cigarette trousers, insouciant hoodie, v-neck tank, shrunken blazer and lastly the standout sequin spangled overalls, very Ziggy Stardust. Sequin shades included azure, gold, plum swirls transmogrifying the fabric.

Lackadaisical cropped leather trackpants were combined with a slub scoop neck tee, leather bomber jacket and white textural hooded cardigan. Breton stripes were a firm fixture in the collection and were prevalent on a deep v-neck, long sleeved mini dress married to staple leather biker jacket. A boatneck mini was dress was paired to a black, streamlined tuxedo jacket for an unbridled effect. A flared sleeve top was mashed up with an a-line leather mini skirt complete with asymmetrical zips and mini pocket detail. This leather mini also featured in a pencil skirt style.

Other heralding looks included an oatmeal knit featuring mammoth shag sleeves which commanded attention. Fringing was also apparent on a blanket wrap scarf with poncho-esque qualities. Rangy silhouettes prevailed when teamed to lavish, cocoon, boxy knits with matching scarf and ice silver sequin adorned mini skirt. The casualness of the knit downplayed the luminous glamour of the skirt.

The collection closed with a drop waist, languid, spaghetti strap column dress with lace cummerbund detail. Ethereal qualities reigned supreme. Pair with a floppy fedora for the ultimate bohemian, poetic combination.

By Courtney Jones.