Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Design pioneer Isabel Marant delivered a Fall 2015 collection rich in characterful peasant folklore. Tribal, ethnic references were prevalent yet again with Marant delving into familiar territory with her signature earthy, back to nature garments for the intrepid traveller.

Russian supermodel Natasha Poly opened the collection in a generously cut, woven, cape coat with toggle and Ikat print detail. Freedom of movement was on Marant's agenda. The oversized coat was paired to a free flowing silk chiffon, printed, tiered mini skirt. A single, Navajo inspired feather earring dangled from Poly's left lobe. Black, waxed leather buckle midi booties with stacked heel completed the look.

Kate Grigorieva modelled  crisp, blanc, skinny leg, 3/4 denim jeans with subtle ankle flare. Epaulet detail on the outer upper thigh added a military surplus feel. A dove grey, blanket wrap, tunic featured sloping shoulders and a collarless neckline. Claret and ebony zig zag pattern highlighted the tunic. A leather belt was layered to a woven cummerbund, drawing in the waist. A psychedelic, bohemian, high neck blouse accompanied the look.

Ingenuity is embedded into Marant's design DNA- who could forget the famed wedge sneaker? This season she reinvented the waist to feature a ribcage, grazing, paper bag waistline. A surprisingly flattering silhouette which oozed of the energised cool factor. Anna Ewers modelled the updated version in the form of a stretch, white denim skirt. Asymmetrical welt pockets, epaulets and dart detailing added an undeniable charm. A simplistic, oatmeal sweater featured elongated ribbed cuffs and Ikat motif emblazoned across the chest and shoulders.

A voluminous, shrunken, cocoon, floral trench jacket starred in lavender, grape, duck egg blue, rose and white, a botanical delight. An obi belt added oriental influences to the mix. A sheer white, sunray pleat mini was a playful addition which was toughened up by Sergeant Peppers inspired leather boots which are sure to be on every fashionistas covet worthy, lust list. No doubt fashion chain stores worldwide will emulate the footwear design leading to an invasion of teens pounding the pavement in copycat Isabel Marant military boots.

The time honoured mariniere was remodelled to feature in a monochromatic black and white striped, ribbed knit mini dress. A bourgeois accession which was amplified by the addition of gladiatorial, over the knee, suede boots complete with shield inserts. Gold rivets were bolstered to the sides for easy access.

The collection concluded with a series of lighter than air silk tunics, minis, lace up shell tops and mini dresses bursting with delicate whimsy. Artisanal innocence reigned supreme on a standout ivory sheath with transparent torso panels complete with sunburst pleating and oversized, sleeveless armholes with flounce trimming. Cascading ruffles enveloped the lower half of the dress while a robust boxing belt in leather attenuated the waist.

By Courtney Jones.

Altuzarra Fall 2015

Joseph Altuzarra Fall 2015

Joseph Altuzarra produced a sumptuously divine Fall 2015 collection steeped in luxury. Garments embodied poetic bewitchment which resulted in pitch perfect style.

Maartje Verhoef opened the collection in a vanilla boxy jacket complete with lavish, gargantuan fox fur collar. A high neck blouse featuring ruffle neck trim and sheer lace body adding a defining quality to the look which was finalised with a trumpet hem, midi length skirt in licorice devore with the signature Altuzarra thigh high slit on display.

A barely there, funnel neck, button up lace dress played a sensual game of hide and seek, worn unbuttoned to reveal key hole detail. A mustard, jaffa and chocolate plaid overcoat with flounce hem fell flirtatiously above the knee. Accessorises included a braided strap saddle bag with leather tassel detail in the shade of papaya. Footwear comprised of vertiginous Victorian-esque, knee high intricately laced up boots worn teamed to over the knee lace ruffle socks. Lace continued to blossom on a transparent, wraparound peplum blouse which brimmed with femininity. A matching wraparound pencil skirt with scalloped hem detail, lace bralet and an ebony velvet choker necklace were sublime additions. 

Anna Ewers modelled a plush, fox fur chubby in the delectable shade of fairy floss. A soft petal pink pencil skirt accompanied the look. An absolute headliner with ostentation very much in attendance. A fox fur duck egg blue version also ruled the runway modelled by Ophelie Guillermand.

A seductive butterscotch, stretch leather pencil skirt complete with libidinous centre split oozed with sensuality. An oxblood, structured blazer featured a nipped in waist, oversized safari style pockets and mammoth sable hued collar. Seventies connotations reigned supreme, decadent boho luxe at its best. A boatneck vermilion blouse featured a sheer, deep triangle insert with subtle Aztec print. Mahogany, studded, pointy toed, stiletto knee boots concluded the look.

Metallic accents flourished on a bronze, velvet devore midi length dress with ruffled hem. The neckline came complete with a gossamer ivory lace insert and satin covered buttons worn buttoned to the top with a peek-a-boo keyhole present. The dress was coupled to  a raven, high sheen blazer with shell toned Mongolian lamb fur collar adding a free spirited, rock n roll edge.

The collection concluded with a series of cocktail dresses in regally hued jewel tones. A sapphire, cutaway, midi length dress hugged the torso and swung freely with side split detail. An aquamarine, semi sheer version featured undulating gold and topaz embellishment, shimmering with every stride Ine Neefs made.

An opulent, striking collection sure to delight the Altuzarra woman.

Courtney Jones.

Alexander Wang Pre Fall 2015

Alexander Wang 

Pre Fall 2015

For Alexander Wang's eponymous line, the designer experimented with utilitarian, military surplus undercurrents which were admirably wearable. Wang toyed with all things contemporary coupled with eclecticism resulting in renegade garments with ample cool factor. 

The collection opened with an oversized, single button, blazer in the shade of eggplant, generously sized throughout the torso, falling on the upper thigh. The blazer was twinned to a knee length pencil skirt in ebony and royal blue which featured a stiff, white, scalloped hem and knitted gridding with transparent panelling revealing the thighs. The look was accessorised with black fishnet stockings which added theatrical qualities. A large, pebbled duffle bag was minimalistic in all its glory. Ladies get your name on that waiting list now! White court shoes sported cut-outs adding femininity to the mix.

A Missoni inspired cardigan was a textural delight oozing with undeniable charm. The colour palette consisted of tomato, charcoal and raven. Sleeves and bodice featured delphic pleating with 4 row embroidery adding delicate whimsy. The striped colour blocked panelling complemented the deep plunging v-neckline. Black and white plaid, flat front trousers with welt pocket starred in languid proportions adding eighties powerhouse connotations. 

Wang ventured into the boudoir this season with a forest green, sensual, double layered silk petticoat slip dress. The bias cut fell below Vanessa Moody's kneecap. Rouleau straps and triangle bust detail brimmed with luxurious simplicity. Seductive loungewear at its best. A camisole version in liquid ink also made an appearance, twinned to a high waisted, ruched pencil skirt, fishnet stockings and milk chocolate, suede almond toe midi boots.

Black and white candy stripes featured predominantly in the collection which on closer inspection exposed peekaboo cutouts revealing windows of flesh throughout as though the garment was sutured together, acting as a second skin. A monochromatic turtleneck, figure hugging pencil skirt and stretch cardigan all displayed the black and white panelling which in turn was teamed to a glistening pony skin skirt, khaki duster coat and an asymmetrical military green flounce skirt. A structured leather shell top and tunic featured jewel neckline with multiple asymmetrical zips encompassing the torso. The shell was married to mannish plaid flares. the shift dress starred a subtle trapeze hemline which softened the hardened arabesque. 

For those looking for a jolt of colour, the polished trench coat in the shade of wild bamboo offered endless styling possibilities. Wang paired it to a body con ruched dress for a flirtatious edge.

By Courtney Jones.

Burberry Prorsum Pre Fall 2015

Burberry Prorsum Pre Fall 2015

Burberry's Christopher Bailey produced a charismatic Pre Fall 2015 collection enriched with grandeur and vivacity. This collection revolved around the hallmark Burberry coat and leather moto jacket. The signature trench was virtually abolished with Julia Schurig modelling a single updated version in brindle suede complete with tribal embellished yoke and collar. A cashmere, fringed camouflage scarf in shades of dove grey, sand and mocha complemented the earthy tones featured on the trench.

A sloping shouldered, boxy, blanket wrap, cropped aviator jacket was a voluminous addition. The shearling collar brought an energised cool factor to the mix. A ribbed, scoop neck knit in the shade of buff was paired to 7/8 tailored narrow trousers in ink. The look was accessorised with a free flowing, khaki camo scarf, racy leather stiletto peep toe ankle boots and a crocodile and python mini duffle bag complete with shoulder strap. A heavenly textural delight offset by gold hardware.

A shaggy shearling coat in burnt toffee was an absolute standout, generously cut with 3/4 sleeve detail twinned to a caramel fudge, suede bowling bag with gold chain handle and staple ebony trousers.

Release your inner wild child with a bold leopard print woollen overcoat. A poetic, collarless, button down bib, lace applique tea party dress with drop waist detail, reminiscent of 'Picnic at Hanging Rock' was twinned to the jacket. Opaque raven, ribbed stockings and stretch suede, flat, over the knee boots completed the look. A black pebbled, leather mini duffle bag with bow detail finalised the look.

A dainty, clover print flourished on a navy, silk georgette dress. Features included a plunge v-neck, sheer long sleeves, navy opaque geometric bust and torso panelling creating a trompe loeil effect. The drop waist revealed a romantic double layer, flounce hem falling mid thigh. The clover print continued to star on a round neck, short sleeve, clover strip, transparent mesh, form fitting mini dress. A dark chocolate velvet bow belt attenuated the waist adding innocence to the provocative number.

An oversized Aztec inspired blanket coat in indigo, teal and cloud fell above the knee and was worn with pure insouciance. The tribal design paired to the staple camo scarf added nomadic, globetrotter qualities to the mix.

A pileous coat reminiscent of Scottish Highland cattle exuded rustic, deconstructed glamour. Colossal sized horn buttons graced the coat which brimmed with finesse. A basic scoop neck tee was layered to a black knit and quintessential slimline trousers.

For the rebellious at heart- a cropped, shrunken leather moto jacket complete with leopard collar and multiple zip pockets. This jacket is an absolute must-have! Paired to an ebony, lace shift dress this was an enticing combination of masculinity versus femininity.

A buttermilk and indigo textural shearling bag with mahogany leather trimmings created another dimension to the Gothic glam look.

Another dapper collection from Mr Bailey replete with gusto and fashion forward bravado.

By Courtney Jones. 

 

LOVER

LOVER S/S 14

Supremely skilled design duo Susien Chong and Nic Briand of Australian label LOVER produced yet another covet worthy collection titled 'Zodiac' for their S/S 2014 line. Ethereal lace, a LOVER hallmark feature continued to dominate and starred on a plethora of garments including pencil skirts, tapered trousers, camis and LOVER'S signature lace dresses adored by fashionistas globally.

The collection opened with a sweet yet sensual midriff baring crop in delicate ivory lace. The crop top was married to a matching high waisted midi length skirt. Vertiginous black lace court shoes completed the look. For those seeking a more modest approach, the sculptural 'Hero Wrap Jacket' with belted waist detail and sharp shoulder is a bourgeois transeasonal piece transcending from day to evening ever so effortlessly. 

Leather continues to play an integral role in the S/S collections and LOVER'S 'Virgo' short sleeve dress oozed of tailored chic. Features included a butter soft waxy finish, crew neck and curved flounce detail cascading from the torso falling mid thigh.

Softened peach and a blue dove grey floral starred on a cocoon, sloping shouldered blouson scuba sweat. Adding a dose of sporting luxe to the mix were pleated leather shorts.

For cocktail hour a sumptuous cheongsam style metallic silver midi dress in floral lace was a captivating creation with impeccable glamour reigning supreme. Quintessential racewear or cocktail attire.

A midnight cutaway halter dress in duchesse stain brimmed of sass and sophistication. The scalloped mini length hem revealed  whimsical pleated lace grazing the top of the knee cap. A pencil skirt version was recently worn by ubermodel Rosie Hungtington-Whiteley at ModelCo's product launch.

A scarlet, high neck, cap sleeve sheer lace sheath featured high-low hem paired with a nude plunging slip underneath. An alluring number sure to light up any room.

Hardened femininity came in the form of the attitude bearing 'Warrior Leather Pant'. High waisted with volume throughout the hip area leading to a streamlined tapered cuffed ankle. The pants were teamed to an enticing, black lace cropped crossover top, scalloped lace edges added sweetness to the fearless fashion forward look. The 'Vee Vee Splice Top' also doubles as an ensemble when paired to the 'Vee Vee Splice Dress' as worn by Miranda Kerr. The dress additionally features in the shade of cornflower blue.

Grecian Goddess connotations were evident on a v-neck dandelion emblazoned dress. Bound strips acted as a waist cincher throughout the mid torso area. Diaphanous cascading side high-low hem added playfulness to the Pre-Raphaelite-esque garment.

Lover is available at its flagship boutiques located at The Strand Arcade and Westfield Bondi Junction. Selected garments are available online at www.loverthelabel.com.

By Courtney Jones.

White Suede S/S 14/15

White Suede S/S 14/15

Designer Jacqui Demkiw of Australian fashion label White Suede produced a sleek, minimalistic collection titled 'Architectural Wanderlust'. Sculptural silhouettes and modern multifaceted, over exposed photography prints starred on an array of garments, creating optical illusions which wouldn't look out of place in a Magic Eye art book.

The collection opened with a shrunken, printed bodice in shades of dark rose, ebony, white and teal. The bodice was paired to a high waisted, body con pencil skirt, with centre split detail. Feminine allure reigned supreme on an effervescent, ivory blouse which featured lace torso panelling and delicate short sleeve detail. A scoop back added sensuality to the mix.

The elixir of youth was prevalent on an ensemble that consisted of waxed, leather flip short in relaxed micro proportions and digi print sculptural bustier. Sporting references crept in on a reptilian snake print neoprene crop top in shades of navy and Aegean blue. The crop was married to a matching high waisted tulip skirt , a bourgeois addition. Vibrant shades of azure were evident on a cut-out shoulder dress which featured spliced torso and decolletage in an electric landscape print complete with jolts of luminous white emblazoned throughout. 

Saccharine bubblegum pink punctuated several garments including a  deep v fold dress, cleverly draped tulip dress with captivating back design and a scuba inspired, racer front scoop neck dress complete with white zipper.

Monochrome arabesques which are a big trend this spring/ summer dominated the collection and starred on garments including a peplum bustier, architectural bodice, curved hem pencil skirt, leather cami and charming lace blazer. 

A muted rose, Aztec inspired print highlighted a thigh grazing mini dress with sheer fabric strips swathing the model's torso. The print was also a hallmark feature on a cropped bustier, tulip skirt, strapless dress and silk tracksuit bottom.

Sumptuous racewear oozed of grandeur. Standouts included a cut-away knee length lace dress with subtle peplum detail and a strapless version that comprised of angular, panelled opaque and lace bodice with asymmetrical lace tail finalised with stark black and white above the knee a-line skirt.

Tailored finesse flourished throughout. Think rigorously, defined silhouettes exuding consummate class.

White Suede's flagship store is located at 116 Oxford St, Paddington, 2021. Selected garments are available at Myer's Sydney City store. The entire collection is available online at www.whitesuede.com .

By Courtney Jones.

Ginger and Smart S/S 14/15

Ginger and Smart 'DUALISM' S/S 14/15

Adept design duo Genevieve and Alexandra Smart of Australian label Ginger and Smart produced an irrefutably modern S/S 14/15 collection aptly titled 'DUALISM'. The collection delved into the realms of double vision and duality with the duo drawing inspiration from the art form of double exposure photography. 

The collection opened with an azure, teal and midnight cap sleeve, midi length dress featuring undulating reptilian fabric in a fluid silhouette. The exotic reptilian print also starred on a cropped boxy blouse with perforated sleeves, knee length elongated body con number, relaxed shirt dress and a sleek pencil skirt with plunging centre split in rose gold. Wardrobe staples included dainty, neutral, multi layered camisoles with industrial zip detail toughening up the arabesque.

A minimalistic, silk jacquard, pantsuit in ivory offered structure and texture. The protracted jacket oozed of masculinity. The streamlined trousers fell mid calf. The silk jacquard was reconfigured into a sassy, fashion forward jumpsuit. Clever waist drapery ensued a sleek silhouette with a dose of playfulness thrown into the mix.

Graphic ombre lace was a standout on a reptilian tiled, funnel neck, three quarter sleeved, midi dress in shades of ice silver and gunmetal. Sumptuous cocktail attire came in the form of the 'Broken Beauty' strapless dress. A feminine, sculpted dress complete with trompe loeil panelling and sensual centre split adding a provocative edge.

A dramatic floral print was present on a boatneck, waisted, knee length dress which embodied dark glamour with a hint of romanticism. A racer front dress, drop waist midi skirt and relaxed blouse also featured in the floral print. Bold graphic candy stripes in peony pink and turquoise were prevalent on a bustier, high waisted pencil skirt and shift dress. A blush, quilted, cropped bomber jacket brimmed with joie de vivre. A sweetheart bustier complemented the jacket and the look was complete when teamed to high waisted shorts in relaxed proportions.

Ginger and Smart's 'DUALISM' collection is available at boutiques and selected David Jones stores nationally. You may also purchase the collection online at www.gingerandsmart.com

By Courtney Jones.

Balmain Resort 2015

Balmain Resort 2015

Fashion virtuoso, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain created a striking Resort 2015 collection suffused with lavish sophistication. Uplifting, artisanal silhouettes dominated throughout, injecting high octane energy.

Model of the moment, Binx Walton opened the collection in a canary yellow, halter, bandage bodice complete with leather trimmings. A drop waist handkerchief hem, mid length skirt was of free flowing proportions. Sleek, minimalistic, burnished bronze cuffs and collar were a mod addition. Warrior inspired, black, peep toe stiletto booties brimmed with attitude.

Fluid drapery featured on a sleeveless, wraparound, asymmetrical tunic with Greek goddess connotations. Floor grazing, flared trousers in matching georgette concluded the look. For the Balmain woman who favours flesh baring ensembles this look offered modesty. Time will tell whether Balmain devotees will embrace this new arabesque.

The alluring Balmain blazer dress returned once again this season in micro proportions sure to delight perennial party girls aplenty. Details included honeycomb satin lapels, cuffs and pocket flaps. Regal gold buttons featured on the double breasted blazer dress adding a dose of ostentation.

White, stretch lace, elongated flares were teamed to a woven black and white leather staple boxing belt and round neck midriff baring crop top. The look was finalised with a lust worthy, monochromatic, white, peak shoulder blazer complete with black trimmings and gold button fastenings. The poncho played a prevalent role in the collection with Native American references evident throughout. A pannier weave, structured poncho in fiery tangelo, ivory, black and white was married to an a-line mini skirt. A robust silhouette highlighted by paprika hued, embellished peep toe midi boots. A heavily beaded turquoise poncho and matching dress made for a divine ethnic creation. Think bohemian babe does New York. A play on textural delight came in the form of an ivory, ribbed, transparent racer front tank paired to high waisted chevron stripe ebony and ivory ,mini skirt.  

A hot coral, strapless, body con mini dress featured satin strips of fabric encompassing Binx Walton's torso. The skirt featured clever drapery emulating a sash worn knotted at the side hip. Black trimmings punctuated the garment adding the luxe factor.

A yellow mustard, cut out shoulder embroidered, tattoo blouse referenced Zuhair Murad's archives. A subtle, fringe black and white pencil skirt fell above the knee making for a feminine combination with a hint of provocation.

By Courtney Jones.

Style Notes

 

  STYLE NOTES                                    

Top left grid, clockwise-

For the polished, poised woman who appreciates sleek silhouettes- a fashion forward blouse with a play on textures married to an irrefutably modern, asymmetrical leather skirt, accessorised with burnished gold jewellery and footwear exuding consummate class.

WILLOW 'Dot Lace Pocket Tee' $450

PETER LANG 'Guenivere Deco Crystal Earrings' $179

SIGERSON MORRISON 'Giliana Gold' heels available from Zomp Shoez

MANNING CARTELL 'Romeo Leather Skirt' $479


Top right grid, clockwise-

For the free spirited, indie, bohemian girl- a tank featuring a conversation starter slogan or statement is a winner. Pair with understated, distressed denim shorts and boots with Navajo or Western connotations for plenty of nonchalance. Accessorise with a luxury handbag for a sophisticated edge.

     
FRIEND OF MINE 'Midwest Tank' $89
                                                
SAINT LAURENT 'Monogramme Croc Shoulder bag' $2020
                                               
ONE TEASPOON 'Worn White Bonitas' $99
                                                
SENSO 'Levi Boot' $295


Bottom right grid, clockwise-

The time honoured, strapless, floor sweeping dress oozes allure and vivacity. This Aje dress features a sheer, cascading train thus breaking the solidity of the dress. The thigh high split adds plenty of the va va voom factor.

AJE 'Distinguished Grace Dress' $690
                                                   
PETER LANG 'Ella Deco Crystal Earring' $79
                                                   
CHANEL 'Rouge Allure Velvet' lipstick $45
                                                   
APEX 'Schultz' heels $175


Bottom left grid, clockwise- 

A blazer in a neutral, reptilian print twinned with tailored leather shorts evokes an energised cool with a dash of attitude thrown into the mix. Vertiginous ankle boots and eternally chic aviators complete the look.

GINGER AND SMART 'Feline Jacket' $599
                                                
ONE TEASPOON 'Sugarman Sunglasses' $89
                                                
SENSO 'Minty I Bootie' $275
                                                
ONE TEASPOON 'Black Leather Yokos' $180

By Courtney Jones.