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GUCCI SPRING 2016
Designer Alessandro Michele of Gucci delivered a sassy, sophisticated collection enlivened with bourgeois, peasant folklore. The scene was set in a desuetude train depot in Milan proving to be the perfect backdrop for a retro inspired collection.
The show opened with a broccolini green, lace, under the knee dress. A plunging ruffled neckline highlighted the decolletage which was adorned by a series of beaded layered necklaces in shades of turquoise, canary yellow and fire engine red. A ribbed, racing stripe, signature, Gucci belt attenuated the waist. Heritage Gucci loafers in the shade of chocolate added androgyny to the ensemble.
Ladylike demure radiated on a salmon, chiffon, poetic blouse. Scalloped bib insert, flared bell sleeve and flower corsage centrepiece brimmed with old world glam. The blouse was worn tucked into a scarlet, embroidered satin midi skirt enriched with oriental qualities. Aqua, T-bar platforms concluded the look.
Sicilian overtones dominated on a billowy, deep decolletage, characterful midi dress. The fabric print resembled a treasure map with words including generosity, sincerity and respect splashed across the garment. Undulating lines engulfed the sapphire, aquamarine and sand hued dress; a scintillating lemon sequin belt added sparkle.
A decadent maxi dress was a standout in a kaleidoscope of colour. A ruffled bib collar shined in sequin topaz. Patchwork brocade in a riot of colour including mint, mandarin, grape, lavender and daisy ignited the bohemian number which brimmed with traditional Italian dress elements. Bouffant, ruffled sleeves and a tiered skirt added volume to the silhouette. Oversized, tortoiseshell glasses added the geek chic factor.
A kitsch, artisanal, seventies derived suit featured in shrunken proportions. A crisp white, sharp shouldered blazer was embellished with floral fauna embroidery in bold shades of lady bug red, ebony and forest green. Matching, tailored, slimline trousers with subtle flare also starred floral motifs and a swirling snake. A sky blue, classic, cotton poplin shirt was teamed underneath the jacket with a pink pineapple embossed tie delivering a quirky edge.
Grandeur with a bohemian twist came in the form of a high neck, ruffled placket blouse. Intricate lemon curd sequins and a red dainty sequin bow adorned the neck. Cobalt and gold brocade plentifully bestrewn the bodice while petal pink, 3/4, brocade sleeves complemented the deluxe hippie creation. Accessories included oversized, square, gold spangled glasses, a raven turban and bejewelled, cocktail, knuckle duster rings.
Vintage refinement was prevalent on an apple green, chiffon, midi dress. Gossamer airiness added a certain fragility. Bouffant sleeves, ruffled bib and drop waist tiered skirt billowed with every stride Elizabeth Moore took on the runway. A vermilion, floral corsage was accented by a stark white collar. Opulent, brocade, horsebit loafers finalised the look.
Preppy tenderness ruled on a pastel mauve, gingham, short scalloped sleeve shirt. Delicate ruffles cascaded down the shirt which was nipped in at the waist by a gold, leather,studded, ruby belt complete with interlocking GG gold insignia. A sunflower yellow, brocade skirt featured flounce hem, floral embroidery peppered throughout. A beatnik striped beret screamed free spirited hippie.
An ornate, colourful display enriched with neo romantic connotations as Michele continues to steer away from Gucci's previous predecessors, conveying his vision of geek girl does Gucci.
By Courtney Jones.
GUCCI FALL 2015
Designer Alessandro Michele unveiled his debut Gucci collection at the helm this Fall 2015 at Milan Fashion Week. The collection evaded all the Gucci hallmark features of its previous predecessors including Tom Ford and Frida Giannini. Disparate qualities echoed throughout. Unconventional, enigmatic looks lacked the inescapable ostentation Gucci is famed for.
The collection opened with a series of vintage looks which included leather midi skirts with sunray pleating detail in shades of vermilion and toffee, which were teamed to a transparent aspirin dot mesh blouse complete with floral ivory adornment and a sheer plunging, muted plum camisole. Accessories comprised of a simplistic dagger pendant necklace which fell deep on the decolletage, a warm chocolate beret, oversized geek tortoiseshell spectacles and lace up ebony heels complete with pom pom accoutrement.
Lackadaisical bohemia reigned supreme on a silk flounce dress bursting with floral charm. The body skimming number fell elegantly below the calf and starred in a color palette consisting of lavender, rose, avocado and forest green. The look was finalised with camel, oversized fur slippers decorated with Gucci horsebit gold hardware.
Michele seemingly rummaged deep into a vintage treasure trove with op shop combinations exuding the sixties and seventies era. Harleth Kuusik modelled an ombre hued mocha latte fur coat which was twinned to a saturated sage crinkle scarf with gold fauna embellishment. Patent tomato red, slingback kitten heels featured plush fur lining which poked coquettishly from the foot's heel.
Sexed up secretary was the running theme for a thigh skimming sheath in fire red. Blossoms ensconced the dress with sunray pleat bib and sleeves.
Bold jacquard suiting frequented an elongated narrow blazer with two button closure. Languid matching trousers in a striking enlarged floral print in shades of sapphire, bronze and pewter added seventies deluxe qualities. A colossal sized teal corsage finalised the look.
An iridescent rose gold and bronze waisted dress fell below the knee. The chevron pattern was married to dusty salmon fur cuffs and a powder puff blue pussy bow scarf with ebony rose corsage. Masculine leather loafers hardened the silhouette.
Other garments included barely there sheaths oozing of nineties grunge, granny knits, Sergeant Peppers inspired numbers, mismatched haphazard combinations of lace tea skirts twinned to embroidered sweaters, herringbone scarves, cable knit beanies, Peter Pan collars and military influenced overcoats.
Time will tell whether this contemporary design direction will resonate with the Gucci customer who has a strong appetite for unsurpassable glamour.
By Courtney Jones.
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www.modeloffduty.blogspot.com and www.modestyling.blogspot.com.au
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