CHLOE FALL 2016

CHLOE FALL 2016

Designer Clare Waight Keller of Chloe produced a floaty, feminine collection brimming with eclectic pulchritude. Exotic travels abroad inspired by Anne- France Dautheville were on the agenda. Billowy fabrics, slick, buttersoft leather in relaxed proportions set the tone for the rich in bohemia design acumen.

Marleth Kuusik modelled a peanut fudge, leather safari jacket. Four oversized pockets frequented the torso and a leather belt attenuating the waist was knotted nonchalantly. Cropped, leather trousers featured teal and white racing stripe detail. Round toe, tan leather booties finalised the chic ensemble, bursting of downtown cool.

A chocolate, collarless, sloping shoulder, oversized fur coat was teamed to 3/4 leather pantaloons complete with knee patch and side lace up detail. An ivory brightly embroidered kaftan was paired underneath adding an artisanal edge. An alabaster silk scarf was wrapped several times around the neck and knotted insouciantly for a seventies vibe.

A midi length kaftan starred elongated sleeves and a plunging neckline. The free spirited garment was highlighted by hand embroidery and beading in shades of burnt mandarin, canary yellow, saffron and fuchsia. Black leather midi boots were a heavy addition to the breezy number. Perhaps function over fashion for muse Dautheville who rode a motorbike on her sojourn throughout Europe and the Middle East.

A barely there, silk chiffon, poetic blouse featured a cascading, ruffled bib which fell elegantly to the mid thigh. A long, loose, ebony skinny scarf adorned the neck. Leather trousers concluded the monochromatic ensemble.

Sam Rollinson modelled a peach sorbet, heavenly, diaphanous, full length dress. Deep decolletage, sheers shoulders and sleeves which flared into tiers of gossamer airiness oozed with femininity. Patchwork floral fabrics frequented the torso and skirt ruffles which flowed into a balayage of dusty pink and salmon.

For the ultimate in biker chic- leather overalls with sexy zip up closure. Loose, undone tresses and a burgundy scarf added plenty of renegade attitude.

A voluminous, alabaster, shearling coat was a cosy accession. A cream blouse was coupled underneath the coat and worn tucked into khaki, highwaisted, leather pantaloons of 3/4 length. Hippie, globetrotter connotations reigning supreme.

Frederikke Sofie modelled a standout, delicate, floaty, trapeze maxi dress. Details included gathered high neck and over extended sleeves. An explosive watercolour of blooms in hues of cobalt, mint, lime, peony pink and yellow erupted throughout the dress' entirety, billowing with every stride Sofie took on the runway.

A patchwork shag coat was the perfect addition for the ultimate bohemian la femme. Unruly collages of faux fur in a colour palette comprising of maroon, orange, turquoise, mocha and rose worked harmoniously together. A burgundy body skimming slip dress was paired underneath.

Grand, peasant folklore themes incorporated beautifully with luxurious garments dominating the runway from start to finish.

By Courtney Jones.

 

BALMAIN FALL 2016

BALMAIN FALL 2016

Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain produced a hedonistic, sizzling collection steeped in opulence. Feminine, sculptural silhouettes reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's design DNA featured, pulsating energy echoing throughout. The decadent collection was held at the Palais Royal and played host to a menagerie of celebrities, all ready for their close up.

Model of the moment, Kendall Jenner opened the show in a powdered storm grey, pinstripe, sharp shouldered, full length, cardigan coat teamed to matching body con tank. A restrictive, high waisted, corseted skirt fell on the upper thigh. Details included boning, silver hook and eye and sumptuous fur panels.Suede thigh high boots emulating Stuart Weitzman's 'Highland' style concluded the look.

Tami Williams exuded 80s prowess in a powerhouse suede and fur sleeve, crossover, wrapped jacket. The voluminous jacket was paired to high waisted, flat front, stretch suede leggings. A signature boxing belt in chrome finalised the ensemble.

Danish beauty Josephine Skriver modelled an ice vo-vo, baroque inspired creation comprising of a high neck with cut out shoulder detail, ornate rose gold pearl embellishment and copious rows of tasselled pointrines dangling from the bust and sleeves. A white and gold cincher nipped in the waist which flowed fluidly into a scalloped hem mini skirt adorned with delicate, undulating beading. 

Statuesque Karlie Kloss took to the runway in a ballet pink, corseted camisole. The structured bodice celebrated the female silhouette. Ethereal, transparent lace trousers caressed legs and starred cascading silk waterfall ruffles. A corrugated crystal plate choker with gold hardware was oversized and hardened the romantic garments. A powder puff blue, tapestry silk brocade ignited a striking, off the shoulder, long sleeve, corseted blouse. Sheer panels highlighted the decolletage with brocade seams concluding the peplum blouse. Matching body conscious, stretch trousers encased every curve of Katya Ledneva's lithe physique.

Catwoman references were evident on a  sensual, black velvet, bodysuit. Long sleeves, structured shoulders, nude panelling and velvet breast cups exuded a modern day gothic renegade. Stretch flat front trousers with darting concluded the fierce look.

A spectacular collection brimming with couture like finesse. Perennial party girls rejoice, Rousteing has delivered yet again.

By Courtney Jones.

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER FALL COUTURE 2015

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER FALL COUTURE 2015

Illustrious French designer, Alexandre Vauthier delivered an enticing collection for the self assured woman. Pulsating energy echoed throughout, injecting seductive charm with Native American connotations teamed to a distinct rocker mood.

Texan model Vanessa Moody opened the collection in a butter soft, obsidian, leather, cross over bust micro dress. Overblown, cuffed sleeves and colossal fringed leather sash graced the waist and cascaded freely from the left lapel. Footwear comprised of multi strap heels which crept up the lower calf, finalised with gold hardware and dainty feather centrepiece, a dose of Navajo thrown into the mix.

Valery Kaufman modelled a gossamer lace bodysuit complete with raw , unfinished neckline. The body skimming transparent tank showcased a reptilian pattern which flowed seamlessly into a fuchsia, duchesse satin, bubble mini skirt. An oversized, elongated, masculine blazer hardened the arabesque. Ysaunny Brito modelled a one shoulder, asymmetric bodysuit version which was married to a satin fuchsia ruffled, tiered, asymmetric floor sweeping statement making skirt which brimmed of romanticism, decadence reigning supreme.

High voltage rebellion came in the form of a cropped boxy patent leather moto jacket teamed to a black plunging bodysuit and fearless second skin leggings in matching patent leather which featured spliced detail and looked as though Edward Scissorhands had tended to them.

Lindsey Wixon rocked a sizzling satanic red python leather motorcycle dress. Details included an industrial asymmetric zipper, ruching and oversized cocoon shoulders creating a gridiron effect. A suede, tasselled sash attenuated the waist, adding a nomadic edge to the amplified number. Caged vermilion booties concluded the eighties inspired look.

A sumptuous Coyote chubby in shades of alabaster, honey and pearl grey was paired to a hip hugging suede scarlet mini. The hemline comprised of gold plated tubes interwoven with lengthy strips of suede floor grazing tassels, a sensual addition.
An architectural, deep decolletage noir mini dress was cut with the utmost precision. Sharp shoulders, 3/4 sleeves and a step hem enhanced the minimalistic dress. A constricting waist cincher featured in suede, iridescent gold and python highlighting the silhouette.

Maartje Verhoef modelled a slinky one shoulder, chiffon, fringed dress in ebony and burnished gold. The dress comprised of asymmetric chiffon panels held together by gold plated tubes which engulfed the torso. A raw, waxed leather hem finalised the suggestive creation.

The collection closed with a scintillating, effervescent, plunging, wraparound mini dress. The emboldened lustrous gold creation was festooned with embellishment resembling a reptilian and required 1600 hours of craftsmanship.

Kohl rimmed smoky eyes, nude lips and undone tresses added a devil may care attitude.

By Courtney Jones.

 

Zadig and Voltaire Fall2014

Zadig and Voltaire Fall 2014

French label Zadig and Voltaire's Fall 2014 Collection offered prestige, magnetism and practically minded pieces for the renegade within.

Fashion heavyweight Kirsten Owen made her debut return to the runway, opening the collection in a utilitarian parka accessorised with plush, colossal, fur flecked collar. A sheer, alabaster, lingerie inspired slip dress with bust embellishment was a barely there accompaniment. The look was hardened with masculine midi boots. It appeared as though designer Cecilia Bonstrom delved deep into Marc Jacobs's grunge element archives. Undone bed head tresses oozed of devil may care attitude.

A burnt persimmon, fine, crew neck knit was paired to chiffon culottes and forest khaki, boiled wool aviator jacket. Hands were adorned with fingerless gloves. Bet you haven't sported those in a while!

A ribbed black beanie was twinned to a fire engine red and black sumptuous fur coat, brimming with charisma. A cosy addition for the cooler months. A slip dress, inspired mini dress lent an androgynous connotation, screaming energised cool.

Hanne Gaby Odiele took to the runway with unashamed gusto in a sassy grape and ebony shag overcoat which was married to gathered waist, relaxed fit shorts. A pyjama inspired button up blouse with oriental inspired print was layered to a mahogany knit and full length black cardigan. A charcoal grey structured overcoat was a dapper accession. This was teamed to a graphite, ribbed boatneck knit dress layered over a tangerine tank dress, attenuated by double, skinny, studded leather belt in white and tangelo.

Sequins played a starring role in the collection and featured on an effervescent, rock n roll, plunge, boxy mini dress, hip grazing cigarette trousers, insouciant hoodie, v-neck tank, shrunken blazer and lastly the standout sequin spangled overalls, very Ziggy Stardust. Sequin shades included azure, gold, plum swirls transmogrifying the fabric.

Lackadaisical cropped leather trackpants were combined with a slub scoop neck tee, leather bomber jacket and white textural hooded cardigan. Breton stripes were a firm fixture in the collection and were prevalent on a deep v-neck, long sleeved mini dress married to staple leather biker jacket. A boatneck mini was dress was paired to a black, streamlined tuxedo jacket for an unbridled effect. A flared sleeve top was mashed up with an a-line leather mini skirt complete with asymmetrical zips and mini pocket detail. This leather mini also featured in a pencil skirt style.

Other heralding looks included an oatmeal knit featuring mammoth shag sleeves which commanded attention. Fringing was also apparent on a blanket wrap scarf with poncho-esque qualities. Rangy silhouettes prevailed when teamed to lavish, cocoon, boxy knits with matching scarf and ice silver sequin adorned mini skirt. The casualness of the knit downplayed the luminous glamour of the skirt.

The collection closed with a drop waist, languid, spaghetti strap column dress with lace cummerbund detail. Ethereal qualities reigned supreme. Pair with a floppy fedora for the ultimate bohemian, poetic combination.

By Courtney Jones.

 

Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2014

Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2014

Anthony Vaccarello's Fall 2014 Collection brimmed of sex infused, rock n roll glamour. High voltage looks that commanded plenty of attention continued to be a hallmark feature for Vaccarello.

The collection opened with a more modest look comprising of an ebony, leather and fur shrunken biker jacket teamed with charcoal, masculine, low slung trousers. Dove grey suiting was spliced to reveal a grey marle tee. A luxurious, ribbed, alabaster turtleneck was paired to an impeccable leather and shearling coat. An androgynous, tailored vest was worn tucked into slouch trousers.

Embellishment played a starring role on an asymmetrical mini skirt featuring bolstered discs and patent leather inserts offering plenty of seductive charm. A distressed, pronounced shoulder, cropped aviator jacket was married to a boatneck knit. Satanic red court shoes with glass sheen were a fierce addition.

Model Nadja Bender emerged with conviction in a saintly white, turtleneck mini dress knit with leopard trompe l'oeil panelling. A black, boiled wool, military inspired overcoat exuded clean, stark, monochromatic lines.

A suggestive, transparent blouse with faint pinstripe detail was worn plunging to the navel. The blouse was paired to a midi length skirt in a techy gloss fabric featuring an overtly sensual thigh high split for a dose of provocation. The look was accessorised with a ribbed turtleneck knitted collar with sterling silver chain and charm layered to bring an iridescent shine. A tooled leather obi belt hugged the waist. 

A leather sweater was punctuated by vermilion bullet holes and layered over a scarlet body con dress. Conceptual art reigned supreme on a black, strapless mini dress with cut out triangle detail and Spanish flamenco, patent flounce.

For the empowered woman, peg leg trousers twinned to a butter soft leather, asymmetrical top with diamond cut out under the bust evoking eighties powerhouse connotations. A glomesh, undulating ruffle caressed Sasha Luss's physique on a leather crew neck, body con, long sleeved mini dress worn belted. Plenty of long, lean endless limbs were on display, a Vaccarello fixture.

Anja Rubik closed the collection in a dare to  bare, sheer mesh top, leaving nothing to the imagination. A satin, floor length trench and ankle grazing maxi skirt with side split toggle detail concluded the look.

Get the Anthony Vaccarello aesthetic in your wardrobe this winter with these runway inspired garments:

Top left grid, clockwise-

METALICUS BY YEOJIN BAE 'Wool Rib Tank Dress' $179.95

AJE 'Catara Mini Skirt' $390

WILLOW 'Reverse Knit Box Top' $250

WITCHERY 'Longline Shirt' $79.95

Bottom right grid, clockwise-

ANTHONY VACCARELLO 'Openwork Dress' $3525

WITCHERY 'Leather Zip Mini Skirt' $199.95

ANTHONY VACCARELLO 'Knit Top' $1167

VIKTORIA AND WOODS 'Phoenix Jacket' $469

By Courtney Jones.

 

Balmain Fall 2014

Balmain Fall RTW 2014

Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain produced a Fall 2014 Collection rich in gladiatorial air. The excess and drama was very prevalent this season. Gone were the saccharine shades of Spring 2014 replaced by a jungle colour palette full of garments exuding modern day warrior, safari and urban hip hop culture.

Jourdan Dunn opened the collection in a khaki, boxy, lavish leather jacket complete with colossal chest pockets and peplum hemline. Leather was butter soft and waxed to perfection. Fluid, silk molten metal cargo trousers produced a languid silhouette. A beaded choker collar and matching wrist cuffs brimmed with Masai connotations.

Exquisite tailoring and finesse featured on a cropped, utilitarian anorak with funnel collar. This was paired to a high waisted pencil skirt with bandage panelling. A starch, pleated peplum belt accessorised the look. Marquetry inspired peep toe midi boots offered artisanal qualities.

Some instances garments lent towards volume overload with more streamlined arabesques hitting the mark.

Balmain favourite Joan Smalls modelled leather, cuffed trousers with capacious cargo pockets. Medieval mixed with military was evident on a gallant, structured top with generously cut shoulder detail. A striking robustness created a sizzling silhouette. Details included silk corded panelling complete with leather inserts. Gargantuan, bamboo, gold hoop earrings screamed of Africa.

A leopard calf hair, cropped, sloping shoulder, cocoon jacket was teamed with an origami wrap top and drawstring trouser of relaxed proportions. A risque, sweater comprising of knitted shoulder detail and corded bodice was held precariously together with gold accented hardware. A faux fur black and metallic spliced, tiered mini skirt was drawn in at the waist by Rousteing's signature boxing belt.

An asphalt toned, cleverly draped, decadent, leather asymmetrical top with sharp shoulder and fluted sleeve was paired to free flowing dove grey trousers with neo siren qualities. Vivid mandarin featured on a high waisted, leather pencil skirt with horizontal, chunky chain panelling.

Animal instincts kicked in with flashes of exotic zebra print. Balmain's famed, cult worthy blazer was updated this season to reveal a longer silhouette. It was collarless with rebellious connotations including black leather and leopard inserts, peak shoulders and worn plunging to the navel. The jacket starred nicely against the full circle, mid thigh length pleated skirt, modelled by Andreea Diaconu.

Anna Selezneva took to the runway in a heavenly snow white, crew neck, ribbed angora jumper. The softness of the jumper worked well with the austerity of the angular leather peplum belt and calf hair zebra pencil skirt in which it was teamed to. Sasha Luss wore a masculine, midnight ink pant suit. The jacket offered clean lines and minimalism. The pants were full of fluidity in liquid silk. The aesthetic oozed of designer Haider Ackermann. A canary yellow top worn underneath was a bold colour addition.

A black and white, graphic, pannier wrap skirt was married to an electric papaya lamb's fur cropped sweater. This sweater also featured in the shade of canary yellow. The bold, decadent fur worked beautifully against Senait Gidley's mocha complexion.

Overall a ground breaking, victorious collection brimming with panache.

By Courtney Jones.