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Balmain Fall RTW 2014
Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain produced a Fall 2014 Collection rich in gladiatorial air. The excess and drama was very prevalent this season. Gone were the saccharine shades of Spring 2014 replaced by a jungle colour palette full of garments exuding modern day warrior, safari and urban hip hop culture.
Jourdan Dunn opened the collection in a khaki, boxy, lavish leather jacket complete with colossal chest pockets and peplum hemline. Leather was butter soft and waxed to perfection. Fluid, silk molten metal cargo trousers produced a languid silhouette. A beaded choker collar and matching wrist cuffs brimmed with Masai connotations.
Exquisite tailoring and finesse featured on a cropped, utilitarian anorak with funnel collar. This was paired to a high waisted pencil skirt with bandage panelling. A starch, pleated peplum belt accessorised the look. Marquetry inspired peep toe midi boots offered artisanal qualities.
Some instances garments lent towards volume overload with more streamlined arabesques hitting the mark.
Balmain favourite Joan Smalls modelled leather, cuffed trousers with capacious cargo pockets. Medieval mixed with military was evident on a gallant, structured top with generously cut shoulder detail. A striking robustness created a sizzling silhouette. Details included silk corded panelling complete with leather inserts. Gargantuan, bamboo, gold hoop earrings screamed of Africa.
A leopard calf hair, cropped, sloping shoulder, cocoon jacket was teamed with an origami wrap top and drawstring trouser of relaxed proportions. A risque, sweater comprising of knitted shoulder detail and corded bodice was held precariously together with gold accented hardware. A faux fur black and metallic spliced, tiered mini skirt was drawn in at the waist by Rousteing's signature boxing belt.
An asphalt toned, cleverly draped, decadent, leather asymmetrical top with sharp shoulder and fluted sleeve was paired to free flowing dove grey trousers with neo siren qualities. Vivid mandarin featured on a high waisted, leather pencil skirt with horizontal, chunky chain panelling.
Animal instincts kicked in with flashes of exotic zebra print. Balmain's famed, cult worthy blazer was updated this season to reveal a longer silhouette. It was collarless with rebellious connotations including black leather and leopard inserts, peak shoulders and worn plunging to the navel. The jacket starred nicely against the full circle, mid thigh length pleated skirt, modelled by Andreea Diaconu.
Anna Selezneva took to the runway in a heavenly snow white, crew neck, ribbed angora jumper. The softness of the jumper worked well with the austerity of the angular leather peplum belt and calf hair zebra pencil skirt in which it was teamed to. Sasha Luss wore a masculine, midnight ink pant suit. The jacket offered clean lines and minimalism. The pants were full of fluidity in liquid silk. The aesthetic oozed of designer Haider Ackermann. A canary yellow top worn underneath was a bold colour addition.
A black and white, graphic, pannier wrap skirt was married to an electric papaya lamb's fur cropped sweater. This sweater also featured in the shade of canary yellow. The bold, decadent fur worked beautifully against Senait Gidley's mocha complexion.
Overall a ground breaking, victorious collection brimming with panache.
By Courtney Jones.
Roberto Cavalli Spring 2013
Roberto Cavalli has a distinct cognizance of exactly what his customer base desires and his latest spring collection was carried out scrupulously and meticulously to champion true Cavalli style.
The colour palette consisted heavily of black and white. When colour did creep in it was in brilliant shades of orange sorbet, peach, emerald green, lavender and aquamarine which popped against the stark, monochromatic contrast.
Majestically stylish ensembles included a white lace, intricately embellished shrunken blazer with peak shoulder and white lapels. A matching shirt and sleek, figure hugging, hipster trouser complete with glass crystal, encrusted, bead work in swirling Pucciesque patterns resembled a broderie anglaise doily. The narrow trousers lent an elongated silhouette.
A profusion of sizzling, peek a boo cut outs were prominent on eveningwear which featured scintillating embellishment and rich velvets. One runway number channelled a modern day Morticia gothic, neo romanticism quality. Sheer netting mirrored gossamer airiness with an abundance of beaded strips applied to a striking, decadent, evening dress.
The tunic and trouser combo which has proven extremely popular with designers this season was revealed on a white lace, embroided tunic paired with slashed, silk fringed trousers.
Models wafted down the runway in sensual, languid arabesques including an apricot, punched leather insert, lingerie slip dress in a stylish Italian scarf print with flashes of emerald green which worked well against the apricot palette.
Roberto Cavalli released his inner safari with signature, exotic leopard prints and snakeskin panelling. Alluring, shoe string, plunge back dresses consumed of provocation.
Accessories were fearless and included a mash up of jungle predators. A chunky, white tiger cuff, very Bulgari, festooned models wrists. Tigers enveloped models ears on ear cuffs. Silver and pewter rectangular pieces formed chunky bangles, layered upon one another. Coiled snakes and tigers featured on chokers and collars. A multi faceted onyx and gold caged cocktail ring offered lustrous grandeur. A small white, crocodile, ladylike boxy, satchel came complete with gold chain handle. Other finishes included a graphic snake, aqua print bag and embossed leather numbers. Skinny, polished belts came in a selection of metallic, crocodile finishes. An oversized, rose gold pair of sunglasses featured sepia lenses and leaf detail on frames, tres chic. Vertiginous, strappy stilettos in snake pewter were a wardrobe must have.
Overall a effervescent collection celebrating a woman's form and silhouette.
By Courtney Jones.
