CHLOE FALL 2016

CHLOE FALL 2016

Designer Clare Waight Keller of Chloe produced a floaty, feminine collection brimming with eclectic pulchritude. Exotic travels abroad inspired by Anne- France Dautheville were on the agenda. Billowy fabrics, slick, buttersoft leather in relaxed proportions set the tone for the rich in bohemia design acumen.

Marleth Kuusik modelled a peanut fudge, leather safari jacket. Four oversized pockets frequented the torso and a leather belt attenuating the waist was knotted nonchalantly. Cropped, leather trousers featured teal and white racing stripe detail. Round toe, tan leather booties finalised the chic ensemble, bursting of downtown cool.

A chocolate, collarless, sloping shoulder, oversized fur coat was teamed to 3/4 leather pantaloons complete with knee patch and side lace up detail. An ivory brightly embroidered kaftan was paired underneath adding an artisanal edge. An alabaster silk scarf was wrapped several times around the neck and knotted insouciantly for a seventies vibe.

A midi length kaftan starred elongated sleeves and a plunging neckline. The free spirited garment was highlighted by hand embroidery and beading in shades of burnt mandarin, canary yellow, saffron and fuchsia. Black leather midi boots were a heavy addition to the breezy number. Perhaps function over fashion for muse Dautheville who rode a motorbike on her sojourn throughout Europe and the Middle East.

A barely there, silk chiffon, poetic blouse featured a cascading, ruffled bib which fell elegantly to the mid thigh. A long, loose, ebony skinny scarf adorned the neck. Leather trousers concluded the monochromatic ensemble.

Sam Rollinson modelled a peach sorbet, heavenly, diaphanous, full length dress. Deep decolletage, sheers shoulders and sleeves which flared into tiers of gossamer airiness oozed with femininity. Patchwork floral fabrics frequented the torso and skirt ruffles which flowed into a balayage of dusty pink and salmon.

For the ultimate in biker chic- leather overalls with sexy zip up closure. Loose, undone tresses and a burgundy scarf added plenty of renegade attitude.

A voluminous, alabaster, shearling coat was a cosy accession. A cream blouse was coupled underneath the coat and worn tucked into khaki, highwaisted, leather pantaloons of 3/4 length. Hippie, globetrotter connotations reigning supreme.

Frederikke Sofie modelled a standout, delicate, floaty, trapeze maxi dress. Details included gathered high neck and over extended sleeves. An explosive watercolour of blooms in hues of cobalt, mint, lime, peony pink and yellow erupted throughout the dress' entirety, billowing with every stride Sofie took on the runway.

A patchwork shag coat was the perfect addition for the ultimate bohemian la femme. Unruly collages of faux fur in a colour palette comprising of maroon, orange, turquoise, mocha and rose worked harmoniously together. A burgundy body skimming slip dress was paired underneath.

Grand, peasant folklore themes incorporated beautifully with luxurious garments dominating the runway from start to finish.

By Courtney Jones.

 

BALMAIN FALL 2016

BALMAIN FALL 2016

Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain produced a hedonistic, sizzling collection steeped in opulence. Feminine, sculptural silhouettes reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's design DNA featured, pulsating energy echoing throughout. The decadent collection was held at the Palais Royal and played host to a menagerie of celebrities, all ready for their close up.

Model of the moment, Kendall Jenner opened the show in a powdered storm grey, pinstripe, sharp shouldered, full length, cardigan coat teamed to matching body con tank. A restrictive, high waisted, corseted skirt fell on the upper thigh. Details included boning, silver hook and eye and sumptuous fur panels.Suede thigh high boots emulating Stuart Weitzman's 'Highland' style concluded the look.

Tami Williams exuded 80s prowess in a powerhouse suede and fur sleeve, crossover, wrapped jacket. The voluminous jacket was paired to high waisted, flat front, stretch suede leggings. A signature boxing belt in chrome finalised the ensemble.

Danish beauty Josephine Skriver modelled an ice vo-vo, baroque inspired creation comprising of a high neck with cut out shoulder detail, ornate rose gold pearl embellishment and copious rows of tasselled pointrines dangling from the bust and sleeves. A white and gold cincher nipped in the waist which flowed fluidly into a scalloped hem mini skirt adorned with delicate, undulating beading. 

Statuesque Karlie Kloss took to the runway in a ballet pink, corseted camisole. The structured bodice celebrated the female silhouette. Ethereal, transparent lace trousers caressed legs and starred cascading silk waterfall ruffles. A corrugated crystal plate choker with gold hardware was oversized and hardened the romantic garments. A powder puff blue, tapestry silk brocade ignited a striking, off the shoulder, long sleeve, corseted blouse. Sheer panels highlighted the decolletage with brocade seams concluding the peplum blouse. Matching body conscious, stretch trousers encased every curve of Katya Ledneva's lithe physique.

Catwoman references were evident on a  sensual, black velvet, bodysuit. Long sleeves, structured shoulders, nude panelling and velvet breast cups exuded a modern day gothic renegade. Stretch flat front trousers with darting concluded the fierce look.

A spectacular collection brimming with couture like finesse. Perennial party girls rejoice, Rousteing has delivered yet again.

By Courtney Jones.

BALMAIN RESORT 2016

BALMAIN RESORT 2016

Advocate of all things embodying feminine allure, Olivier Rousteing of Parisian house, Balmain delivered an empowering collection brimming with undeniable sass and ostentation. Pulsating energy engulfed intricate handiwork as Rousteing took us on an exotic journey back to the seventies decade with safari sojourns and  disco fever on the agenda.

The collection opened with a rigorously cut mushroom peak shoulder blazer which starred lace up panelling detail. A restrictive leather waist cincher in the shade of pearlescent pink drew in the waist. A stretch rose quartz ruched pencil skirt was a figure hugging addition with triple bows gracing the centre of the skirt. Signature vertiginous black suede caged booties brimmed with attitude.

A taupe harlequin check duster coat graced Dutch newcomer Julia Van Os' shoulders. Matching high waisted leggings were teamed to a cross over, deep decolletage bustier. Ysaunny Brito modelled a drawstring , leather shell in honeyed beige complete with safari inspired oversized pockets and interwoven pannier leather strips. A matching a-line mini skirt concluded the dapper ensemble.

The YSL archival 'Veruschka' safari dress was seemingly reinvented to star in desert sand suede. The body con dress was highlighted by structured shoulders, lace up front, chest and hip pockets, attenuated by a suede boxing belt complete with gold hardware.

A languid, burnt terracotta, floor sweeping maxi dress featured colossal sized, cuffed, drop armholes. The fluid silk fabric offered an iridescent sheen. Drawstring toggle waist, parachute pockets and suggestive centre split brimmed with siren-esque connotations. The forever covetable Balmain mini dress was updated in an earthy shade of mocha which featured a tight knit basket weave  bodice complete with textural suede lace up panelling throughout. Statement bamboo earrings oozed of jungle luxe. 

An LED city skyline played backdrop to a seductive khaki jumpsuit flaunting every curve of Van Os' physique. The plunging number featured lace up eyelet detail descending from the armpit to the ankle finalised with a leather waist cincher belt, polished perfection. Technical feats were prevalent on a lustrous chain engulfing, bronze embroidered, textural ebony, three quarter sleeve mini dress, decadence reigning supreme. 

Monochromatic graphic coral branches punctuated a velvet lace up blouse reminiscent of Tom Ford's 2002 YSL glory days. The coral embellishment continued to flourish on a ruffled flounce high-low hem evening skirt which was married to a matador derived cropped jacket.

The collection closed with a cherry blossom pink, cutaway ruffled evening dress. A voluminous top was paired to a romantic mermaid frilled skirt which conveyed sheer elegance. A striking coral collar in ink looked as though it was discovered deep in the depths of the spellbinding ocean.

By Courtney Jones.

IRO Fall 2015

IRO Fall 2015

Kings of energised cool, brothers Laurent and Arik Bitton of IRO produced an undeniably charming Fall 2015 collection. Rock n roll references infused with bohemian, peasant folklore were present throughout offering timeless classics. The design mantra being "French chic meets New York street style" as stated by the pair.

Look one comprised of capacious, textural oatmeal sweater complete with ribbed crew neck and cuffs tucked nonchalantly into sleek, clean, minimalistic high waisted trousers in ivory. An opulent, plush shearling gilet accompanied the look. Accessories consisted of suede, stacked cone heel, sharpened almond toe booties and a narrow studded ebony belt. The trousers proved to be the order of the day and were subsequently paired to a rustic fisherman turtleneck knit, quintessential modern day tuxedo shirt, tweed boucle duster coat and a monochromatic mariniere turtleneck ribbed sweater.

Covetable model off duty style came in the form of the Ikat blanket wrap oversized cardigan in shades of black, midnight and dove grey, a nomadic addition paired to a thigh grazing, free flowing cotton mini skirt throwing femininity into the mix. The go-to ribbed charcoal knit concluded the look.

Autumnal pulchritude shone brightly on a bourgeois dolman sleeve blouse in a colour palette comprising of regal ruby and ink. The printed blouse was paired to high waisted waxed leather trousers of 7/8 length. The floral print continued to feature on a free spirited, streamlined shift dress, finalised with a leather obi sash belt drawing in the waist for an alluring arabesque. High voltage patent brogue-boots starred studs and two strap buckle closure conjuring androgyny at its best.

Intrepid traveller references were channelled throughout a characterful scarlet, buff and ebony tribal coat, falling on the upper thigh. An aubergine ribbed knit was teamed to a cotton tiered asphalt hued mini, accessorised yet again by the leather obi belt.

Other wardrobe staples included an ivory, ruffled, flounce blouse oozing with tenderness and fragility, a seventies lace-up safari inspired tunic, think Veruschka does Paris and the time honoured leather motorcycle jacket, cropped and shrunken in all its sublimity. Polished beatnik perfection came in the form of a wraparound leather mini with subtle paper bag waist. A transparent, spiderweb knit complete with opaque knit panelling across the bust and a voluminous woven cocoon overcoat accompanied the look. These pieces offered endless style combinations for the ever elusive outfit of the day.

IRO is stocked at David Jones City and Bondi Junction stores and selected online boutiques nationally. IRO will be launching their highly anticipated flagship boutique in Double Bay later this year.

By Courtney Jones.

Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Design pioneer Isabel Marant delivered a Fall 2015 collection rich in characterful peasant folklore. Tribal, ethnic references were prevalent yet again with Marant delving into familiar territory with her signature earthy, back to nature garments for the intrepid traveller.

Russian supermodel Natasha Poly opened the collection in a generously cut, woven, cape coat with toggle and Ikat print detail. Freedom of movement was on Marant's agenda. The oversized coat was paired to a free flowing silk chiffon, printed, tiered mini skirt. A single, Navajo inspired feather earring dangled from Poly's left lobe. Black, waxed leather buckle midi booties with stacked heel completed the look.

Kate Grigorieva modelled  crisp, blanc, skinny leg, 3/4 denim jeans with subtle ankle flare. Epaulet detail on the outer upper thigh added a military surplus feel. A dove grey, blanket wrap, tunic featured sloping shoulders and a collarless neckline. Claret and ebony zig zag pattern highlighted the tunic. A leather belt was layered to a woven cummerbund, drawing in the waist. A psychedelic, bohemian, high neck blouse accompanied the look.

Ingenuity is embedded into Marant's design DNA- who could forget the famed wedge sneaker? This season she reinvented the waist to feature a ribcage, grazing, paper bag waistline. A surprisingly flattering silhouette which oozed of the energised cool factor. Anna Ewers modelled the updated version in the form of a stretch, white denim skirt. Asymmetrical welt pockets, epaulets and dart detailing added an undeniable charm. A simplistic, oatmeal sweater featured elongated ribbed cuffs and Ikat motif emblazoned across the chest and shoulders.

A voluminous, shrunken, cocoon, floral trench jacket starred in lavender, grape, duck egg blue, rose and white, a botanical delight. An obi belt added oriental influences to the mix. A sheer white, sunray pleat mini was a playful addition which was toughened up by Sergeant Peppers inspired leather boots which are sure to be on every fashionistas covet worthy, lust list. No doubt fashion chain stores worldwide will emulate the footwear design leading to an invasion of teens pounding the pavement in copycat Isabel Marant military boots.

The time honoured mariniere was remodelled to feature in a monochromatic black and white striped, ribbed knit mini dress. A bourgeois accession which was amplified by the addition of gladiatorial, over the knee, suede boots complete with shield inserts. Gold rivets were bolstered to the sides for easy access.

The collection concluded with a series of lighter than air silk tunics, minis, lace up shell tops and mini dresses bursting with delicate whimsy. Artisanal innocence reigned supreme on a standout ivory sheath with transparent torso panels complete with sunburst pleating and oversized, sleeveless armholes with flounce trimming. Cascading ruffles enveloped the lower half of the dress while a robust boxing belt in leather attenuated the waist.

By Courtney Jones.

Balmain Pre Fall 2015

Balmain Pre Fall 2015

Revered designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, produced a Pre Fall 2015 Collection replete with grandiose and extravagance. The seventies decade style cue proved to be popular once again with designers this season and Rousteing was no exception to the rule.

Rousteing delved into new territory and experimented with bold, striking floral prints that commanded plenty of attention.

Rousteing states,"For this collection I felt the confidence to further evolve the signature look of Balmain, incorporating new and unexpected prints, colours and cuts".

Hemlines on offer included the signature micro mini proportions and free flowing, floor grazing pants so full in volume they resembled a maxi skirt.

Devon Windsor opened the collection in a monochromatic, photosynthesis inspired floral print Palazzo pant which was teamed to a black and white, candy striped turtleneck knit complete with black cuffs, neck and side panelling detail. A golden chartreuse overcoat punctuated the look adding a dose of colour and the staple leather boxing belt defined the waist creating a feminine silhouette.

The Balmain femme fatale is full of dynamism, uninhibited with a strong appetite for all things opulent updated with a modern edge. An ebony, fine knit turtleneck  sweater with exposed shoulder detail was twinned to a burnt tamarind, ruffle flounce skirt in sensual satin with high-low hem detail. A lustrous candy apple red waist cincher attenuated the waist. Semi sheer stockings, gold toe cap ankle cuff court shoe stilettos and raven woollen overcoat finalised the look.

Azure florals graced a high neck, ruffled mini dress with peekaboo keyhole and fluid, diaphanous Palazzo pant which was paired to a transparent, seductive blouse with a velvet tuxedo blazer thrown casually over the shoulder for an insouciant touch.

Disco fever prevailed on an ice silver, multi fringed cape dress. Crystal encrusted sleeves dazzled conjuring copious amounts of ostentation to the mix. Fringing continued to star on an emerald green, round neck mini dress complete with dolman sleeves and fringing in undulating patterns swathing every curve of the model's torso. High voltage glamour came in the form of a scarlet, ruched satin evening dress with provocative centre leg split. Sharp shoulder, aspirin dot mesh sleeves added the va-va-voom factor. Overblown fur sleeves accompanied a waxy leather blazer which was finalised with billowy, sheer, pleated trousers, leaving little to the imagination, ribbed knit and boxing belt. 

A magnetic, halter jumpsuit oozed of impeccable glamour and decadence. Fire engine red florals and jade green fauna were plastered throughout the garment. A high waisted matching belt elongated the languid trousers which draped casually on the floor. Pointy toed, velvet, crossover ankle strap stilettos concluded the look.

This collection is sure to resonate with the 'Balmain Army' with rigorously cut, defined silhouettes still proving to be an integral role in Rousteing's design mantra.

By Courtney Jones.

Balmain Resort 2015

Balmain Resort 2015

Fashion virtuoso, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain created a striking Resort 2015 collection suffused with lavish sophistication. Uplifting, artisanal silhouettes dominated throughout, injecting high octane energy.

Model of the moment, Binx Walton opened the collection in a canary yellow, halter, bandage bodice complete with leather trimmings. A drop waist handkerchief hem, mid length skirt was of free flowing proportions. Sleek, minimalistic, burnished bronze cuffs and collar were a mod addition. Warrior inspired, black, peep toe stiletto booties brimmed with attitude.

Fluid drapery featured on a sleeveless, wraparound, asymmetrical tunic with Greek goddess connotations. Floor grazing, flared trousers in matching georgette concluded the look. For the Balmain woman who favours flesh baring ensembles this look offered modesty. Time will tell whether Balmain devotees will embrace this new arabesque.

The alluring Balmain blazer dress returned once again this season in micro proportions sure to delight perennial party girls aplenty. Details included honeycomb satin lapels, cuffs and pocket flaps. Regal gold buttons featured on the double breasted blazer dress adding a dose of ostentation.

White, stretch lace, elongated flares were teamed to a woven black and white leather staple boxing belt and round neck midriff baring crop top. The look was finalised with a lust worthy, monochromatic, white, peak shoulder blazer complete with black trimmings and gold button fastenings. The poncho played a prevalent role in the collection with Native American references evident throughout. A pannier weave, structured poncho in fiery tangelo, ivory, black and white was married to an a-line mini skirt. A robust silhouette highlighted by paprika hued, embellished peep toe midi boots. A heavily beaded turquoise poncho and matching dress made for a divine ethnic creation. Think bohemian babe does New York. A play on textural delight came in the form of an ivory, ribbed, transparent racer front tank paired to high waisted chevron stripe ebony and ivory ,mini skirt.  

A hot coral, strapless, body con mini dress featured satin strips of fabric encompassing Binx Walton's torso. The skirt featured clever drapery emulating a sash worn knotted at the side hip. Black trimmings punctuated the garment adding the luxe factor.

A yellow mustard, cut out shoulder embroidered, tattoo blouse referenced Zuhair Murad's archives. A subtle, fringe black and white pencil skirt fell above the knee making for a feminine combination with a hint of provocation.

By Courtney Jones.

Balmain Spring / Summer 2014

Balmain Spring / Summer 2014

Olivier Rousteing produced a divergent silhouette this S/S 2014 season which was an audacious move for the designer who has built an empire on the body con arabesque. The staple flesh baring garments still managed to make an appearance yet this time the sex was toned down for a more modest approach. Think Balmain paired with a dose of Chanel.

The opening look modelled by Elisabeth Erm consisted of an oversized, sloping shouldered, houndstooth jacket reminiscent of something you would find in a martial arts studio. The rigid jacket was attenuated by a monochromatic boxing belt featuring large chain link detail. A leather knee grazing flounce skirt with hi-lo hem was paired with a perforated leather midi boot with pointy patent toe cap detail. The look was accessorised with gargantuan gold chain cuffs which engulfed wrists.

Rather than Balmain's classic cropped skinny leather trouser, Rousteing opted for a relaxed man style trouser this season which was married to a college baseball bomber jacket, quilted with leather collar and placket. A pinstripe tank was worn underneath evoking true American sporting references.

An ivory, quilted, high waisted, a-line skirt with centre plunging button detail was teamed with a sheer nero Vichy check tank oozing with ladylike demure and Chanel connotations. This look was modelled by Rosie Huntington Whiteley who made her catwalk comeback debut.

A standout pair of leather overalls featured  a rounded, sculptural shoulder. The overalls were worn loose and androgynous with heavy duty gold accent press studs adding just the right amount of polish. A basic white tee was worn underneath the overalls for a shot of masculinity.

A mid blue, denim wash, off the shoulder top, came complete with horizontal chain sutures. The look evoked the 80s and concluded with paper bag waist, free flowing denim trousers worn tapered at the ankle. Matching denim quilted boot with metallic gold toe cap was the footwear of choice.

Balmain's famed mini dress returned in the shade of pure white complete with satin quilted bodice, bevel shoulder ruched sleeve with grommet suture detail and white feathered hemline. The dress was drawn in at the waist by the staple chain boxing belt.

Czech model Hana Jirickova, dubbed the next Kate Moss, wore a bleached chambray, crystal encrusted, structured shoulder blouse worn cuffed at the elbow complete with leather inserts which texturalized the semi transparent panelling. High waisted, quilted, flat front trousers with four gold Medusa head buttons, brimmed of the 70s with a splash of Versace in the mix.

Closing runway looks appeared deconstructed with artisanal qualities, combined with heavy embellishment. A very ostentatious collection for the woman who beckons to be noticed.

By Courtney Jones.