ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

French designer Isabel Marant channelled the cultural lineage of North India's Rajasthan for her Spring 2016 collection. A colourful display was on offer bursting with distinctive Marant hallmark features for the bohemian globetrotter with a taste for all things embodying nomadic luxe.

Model Zuzu Tadeushuk opened the show in a cuffed, parachute silk, harem pant, which tapered at the ankle. The hip hugging pants offered freedom of movement and brimmed of energised cool. An ebony kimono inspired jacket was paired to an artisanal overcoat complete with frayed, raw effects hem and colourful embroidery in shades of magenta, silver, raven and fuchsia.

A pristine serape was updated with pearl trimmings and worn asymmetrically for a modernistic approach. White, effortless, peg leg trousers were an understated addition. Bold, strappy, rope entwined heels offered a gladiatorial air. A canary yellow chunky choker and lariat added a jolt of colour to the neckline.

Metallic pewter accents highlighted a relaxed, bouffant sleeve, hooded anorak which billowed with every stride Lexi Boling made. A ribbed, funnel neck, knit in milk was worn tucked into black knitted, high waisted briefs. Nautical rope pool slides concluded the look.

Danish theater actor turned model, Mathilde Brandi ignited the runway in scintillating, ice silver, sequin briefs. Ethnic Indian inspired wares continued to frequent the runway and dominated on a mirrored, embroidered, fringed tunic. The characterful garment featured high neck,  structured shoulders, 3/4 frayed sleeves and subtle peplum; an effervescent garment brimming with undeniable charm.

The classic white shirt was updated in an oversized, man style, arabesque complete with darting, gargantuan chest pockets, tabs and a button funnel neck. High waisted shorts in a fabric resembling aluminium foil were cut high on the thigh and radiated beautifully against the stark, white shirt. Tomato red, gladiator, rope sandals in cumbersome proportions were the footwear of choice.

Frenchy Josephine Le Tutour transmogrified into a bona fide, deluxe, jet setting hippie in a boxy, peak shoulder vest which was married to a pewter, lamé, voluminous blouse and a shrunken, ivory, sequin embellished jacket. Cuffs featured embroidery in a riot of colour. Shades included cumin, teal, paprika and bronze. Pearls and frayed trimmings punctuated the hemline. Monochromatic, pinstripe dhoti pants were of relaxed proportions. Ine Neefs modelled a full length overcoat version of the cropped ivory jacket which was teamed to liquid, iridescent, mercury hued sweat pants,oozing with insouciance. A combination rich in techy sportswear references.

Archival remnants continue to shine and will no doubt appeal to Marant aficionados galore.

By Courtney Jones.

Balmain Fall 2013

Balmain Fall 2013

Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain delivered a Fall 2013 collection rich in visual ambiance combined with majestic artiness. Nonchalant ease was paired with hints of haughtiness. Intoxicating, a work encoded into Balmain's DNA continued to reign supreme.
Strong, dominant, powerhouse silhouettes reminiscent of the 80s were unleashed onto the runway with full prowess. An ebony, butter soft, leather, plunge, peplum jacket was drawn together with a Japanese inspired obi waist cincher. This was teamed with man repellent, moire harem pants which tapered at the ankle. The languid pants softened the severely structured jacket.
An ivory, peak shoulder, angora knit featured overblown sleeves married with tarnished silver baroque dhoti pants, bronze cummerbund and gargantuan chandelier earrings grazing the collarbone.
Futuristic, sci-fi burnished molten knits with ribbed collars and cuffs are forthcoming wardrobe staples. Shoulders continued to command plenty of attention much to fans jubilance no doubt.
A piquant, fuchsia and claret mini tulip skirt in silk charmeuse was cleverly draped with sinuous tailoring. A rigid, moto cross inspired, quilted diamond blouse and boxing belt featuring chrome centerpiece completed the look. Hip high suede, black boots were construed as pants or second skin leggings.
A one shoulder, bouffant sleeved asymmetrical blouse in mauve and fuchsia added plenty of zing to the collection. Think the artist Prince meets 80s pop princess. Quilted black leather booties with center back zip exposure are a sure sell out.
Iridescent, glittery 3 piece suiting comprised of a play on proportions, long layered waistcoat, cropped structured blazer and MC Hammer inspired pants just beckoning for models to bust a move at the end of the runway. This collection is for no wallflower. Garments come with a colossal price tag to match. No doubt high street stores such as Topshop, Asos, Zara and Urban Outfitters will be quick to emulate Balmain's trends for the season. Suitable for those on a shoestring budget yet still aspire to the Balmain  aesthetic.
Flamboyant combination consisting of ornate jackets, blouses and pants oozed of ostentation.
The colour palette comprised primarily of jewel tones including ruby, emerald, sapphire and sugilite.
Closing runway looks included Elizabeth Erm modelling a striking silk charmeuse, claret, mullet maxi, with folds reminiscent of Nicolas Ghesquiere's Fall 2009 RTW Collection.The maxi was twinned with a leather blouson featuring quilted, turtleneck bib, sheer opulence.

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By Courtney Jones.