ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

ISABEL MARANT SPRING 2016

French designer Isabel Marant channelled the cultural lineage of North India's Rajasthan for her Spring 2016 collection. A colourful display was on offer bursting with distinctive Marant hallmark features for the bohemian globetrotter with a taste for all things embodying nomadic luxe.

Model Zuzu Tadeushuk opened the show in a cuffed, parachute silk, harem pant, which tapered at the ankle. The hip hugging pants offered freedom of movement and brimmed of energised cool. An ebony kimono inspired jacket was paired to an artisanal overcoat complete with frayed, raw effects hem and colourful embroidery in shades of magenta, silver, raven and fuchsia.

A pristine serape was updated with pearl trimmings and worn asymmetrically for a modernistic approach. White, effortless, peg leg trousers were an understated addition. Bold, strappy, rope entwined heels offered a gladiatorial air. A canary yellow chunky choker and lariat added a jolt of colour to the neckline.

Metallic pewter accents highlighted a relaxed, bouffant sleeve, hooded anorak which billowed with every stride Lexi Boling made. A ribbed, funnel neck, knit in milk was worn tucked into black knitted, high waisted briefs. Nautical rope pool slides concluded the look.

Danish theater actor turned model, Mathilde Brandi ignited the runway in scintillating, ice silver, sequin briefs. Ethnic Indian inspired wares continued to frequent the runway and dominated on a mirrored, embroidered, fringed tunic. The characterful garment featured high neck,  structured shoulders, 3/4 frayed sleeves and subtle peplum; an effervescent garment brimming with undeniable charm.

The classic white shirt was updated in an oversized, man style, arabesque complete with darting, gargantuan chest pockets, tabs and a button funnel neck. High waisted shorts in a fabric resembling aluminium foil were cut high on the thigh and radiated beautifully against the stark, white shirt. Tomato red, gladiator, rope sandals in cumbersome proportions were the footwear of choice.

Frenchy Josephine Le Tutour transmogrified into a bona fide, deluxe, jet setting hippie in a boxy, peak shoulder vest which was married to a pewter, lamé, voluminous blouse and a shrunken, ivory, sequin embellished jacket. Cuffs featured embroidery in a riot of colour. Shades included cumin, teal, paprika and bronze. Pearls and frayed trimmings punctuated the hemline. Monochromatic, pinstripe dhoti pants were of relaxed proportions. Ine Neefs modelled a full length overcoat version of the cropped ivory jacket which was teamed to liquid, iridescent, mercury hued sweat pants,oozing with insouciance. A combination rich in techy sportswear references.

Archival remnants continue to shine and will no doubt appeal to Marant aficionados galore.

By Courtney Jones.

Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Isabel Marant Fall 2015

Design pioneer Isabel Marant delivered a Fall 2015 collection rich in characterful peasant folklore. Tribal, ethnic references were prevalent yet again with Marant delving into familiar territory with her signature earthy, back to nature garments for the intrepid traveller.

Russian supermodel Natasha Poly opened the collection in a generously cut, woven, cape coat with toggle and Ikat print detail. Freedom of movement was on Marant's agenda. The oversized coat was paired to a free flowing silk chiffon, printed, tiered mini skirt. A single, Navajo inspired feather earring dangled from Poly's left lobe. Black, waxed leather buckle midi booties with stacked heel completed the look.

Kate Grigorieva modelled  crisp, blanc, skinny leg, 3/4 denim jeans with subtle ankle flare. Epaulet detail on the outer upper thigh added a military surplus feel. A dove grey, blanket wrap, tunic featured sloping shoulders and a collarless neckline. Claret and ebony zig zag pattern highlighted the tunic. A leather belt was layered to a woven cummerbund, drawing in the waist. A psychedelic, bohemian, high neck blouse accompanied the look.

Ingenuity is embedded into Marant's design DNA- who could forget the famed wedge sneaker? This season she reinvented the waist to feature a ribcage, grazing, paper bag waistline. A surprisingly flattering silhouette which oozed of the energised cool factor. Anna Ewers modelled the updated version in the form of a stretch, white denim skirt. Asymmetrical welt pockets, epaulets and dart detailing added an undeniable charm. A simplistic, oatmeal sweater featured elongated ribbed cuffs and Ikat motif emblazoned across the chest and shoulders.

A voluminous, shrunken, cocoon, floral trench jacket starred in lavender, grape, duck egg blue, rose and white, a botanical delight. An obi belt added oriental influences to the mix. A sheer white, sunray pleat mini was a playful addition which was toughened up by Sergeant Peppers inspired leather boots which are sure to be on every fashionistas covet worthy, lust list. No doubt fashion chain stores worldwide will emulate the footwear design leading to an invasion of teens pounding the pavement in copycat Isabel Marant military boots.

The time honoured mariniere was remodelled to feature in a monochromatic black and white striped, ribbed knit mini dress. A bourgeois accession which was amplified by the addition of gladiatorial, over the knee, suede boots complete with shield inserts. Gold rivets were bolstered to the sides for easy access.

The collection concluded with a series of lighter than air silk tunics, minis, lace up shell tops and mini dresses bursting with delicate whimsy. Artisanal innocence reigned supreme on a standout ivory sheath with transparent torso panels complete with sunburst pleating and oversized, sleeveless armholes with flounce trimming. Cascading ruffles enveloped the lower half of the dress while a robust boxing belt in leather attenuated the waist.

By Courtney Jones.

Isabel Marant Spring/Summer 2014

Isabel Marant Spring/Summer 2014

Feminine charm prevailed yet again this S/S 2014 season for Parisian designer Isabel Marant. Delicate pieces oozing with whimsical allure were annealed with leather, grommets and structured arabesques.

Elisabeth Erm opened the collection in a boxy, sharp shouldered tuxedo jacket comprising of elongated torso, satin nonchalant lapels and sleeves worn cuffed mid elbow length. A  layered, white frothy, lace mini dress brimming with innocence produced femininity combined with the tuxedo jacket equalling masculinity. A grosgrain ribbon acted as a sash belt adding casual cool to the equation.

A ruffled pure white camisole with ethereal qualities featured embellished panelling. This look was twinned with leather 3/4 track pants complete with lace up, grommet and blanket stitch pocket detail creating a cutting edge aesthetic. Leather, braided cuffs were the accoutrement of choice.

Hana Jirickova modelled a pair of distressed, muted salmon, denim shorts, deconstructed and frayed throughout were teamed with a lace boatneck top dissected at the shoulder seemingly held together by sutures.

Romanticism ruled on a dramatic, ruffled, sheer jacket featuring sculptural rounded shoulder. A Breton scoop neck tank accompanied the jacket and was complete when paired with relaxed, flesh trouser and beaded tassel lariat. A tiered, leather rah rah skirt with halter layered puristic cami was street or boudoir applicable. Hardened femininity was a reoccurring theme for Marant.

White, broderie anglaise, lace up trousers accessorised with cumbersome plaited leather belt were teamed with pale ice vo vo sheer scoop basic tank and a collarless ruched sleeve and bodice jacket with raw edge ruffle detail.

An indigo wash denim blazer featuring black lapels and sensual lace inserts was pieced together with matching floral lace tee and ivory pink, utilitarian trouser with robust hardware.

Svetlana Zakharova modelled a chiffon, flounce, spaghetti strap, mini dress featuring peach coloured blossoms reminiscent of a Cezanne painting. A leather strip bow belt attenuated the waist.

A dash of insolence was evident on a leather boatneck, long sleeve, drop waist tunic, tiered lace hemline in ultra short proportions. Country and western influences and Marant DNA was mixed with French savvy.

A lace, scalloped triangle bralet was full of enchantment, this was paired with black denim Bermudas and an organza, ruffle shrug.

Footwear continually dominates a Marant collection yet this season Marant didn't quite hit the mark with her rendition of a bulky Mary Jane crossed with a bootie complete with stud and grommet embellishment cascading down the t-bar strap of the shoe. A sturdy, suede cone heel ensured stability. Only time will tell if this shoe is as well received as Marant's famed wedge sneaker.

By Courtney Jones.