PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI SPRING 2017

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI SPRING 2017

Italian designer Lorenzo Serafini of Philosophy created a wondrous Spring 17 collection enriched in guilty pleasures. A sensual game of hide and seek featured throughout with sylph silhouettes and flirty feminine garments reigning supreme on the runway. Serafini cited the cult Brooke Shields movie The Blue Lagoon as inspiration for his design acumen fused with Victoriana references.

A series of admirably wearable petticoat dresses in virginal white, oozing with tenderness opened the collection, think whispers of silk highlighting spidery slip dresses complete with rouleau straps, handkerchief hemlines and chevron lace panelling adding an ethereal touch. Wide, leather wrap belts festooned with gold studs nipped in the waist resulting in an 80s arabesque. 

American model Taylor Hill modelled a patchwork lace, halter, maxi dress. Opalescent pink flounces framed the decolletage. Delicate aspirin dot mesh starred in ebony, scalloped citrus lemon lace and boudoir ballet pink lace trailed effortlessly. Slouchy, black leather ankle boots hardened the enticing number.

A whimsical, liberated, bourgeois slip dress featured a transparent, ruffled lace bib in pearly pink. Playful layers of lace ignited the thigh grazing ensemble injecting luminosity. The staple leather wrap belt continued to attenuate the waist.

Victoria's Secret model Stella Maxwell modelled a sheer, ivory, round neck, subtle bishop sleeve blouse. Pearl buttons highlighted the placket. A black, waxy leather corset belt was married to the floor grazing, billowy, frothy lace maxi, romance very much in attendance.

Anna Mila Guyenz modelled a Spanish style, flounce, swirling skirt with asymmetrical mullet hemline. The high waisted skirt featured a bold flora and fauna design in shades of lemon meringue, forest green and peony pink. The underside was punctuated in hues of midnight and lemon curd. Raw effects including a frayed hem added earthiness to the flamenco style skirt. A leather tassel lariat dangled freely form the neck. A braided leather wrap wristlet brimmed of bohemia. Relaxed, floral midi boots were the footwear of choice taking all things botanic to the next level.

Other key garments included distressed denim corsets teamed to frayed denim cut-offs, bibbed blouses and a cutaway drop waist tunic all in the shade of mid western blue. Dusty  musk, sensual suede high waisted trousers were of 7/8 length and emblazoned with gold studs. A fanciful, grandpa collar, lavender peasant dresses with dip dye citrus yellow flounce hem offered freedom of movement. A fringed, leather, biker jacket in molten metal shades of striped mint, mauve and lime offered a futuristic spin on the staple moto jacket.

A stellar display embodying sheer insouciance with a dash of romance thrown into the mix.

By Courtney Jones.   

  

 

GUCCI SPRING 2016

GUCCI SPRING 2016

Designer Alessandro Michele of Gucci delivered a sassy, sophisticated collection enlivened with bourgeois, peasant folklore. The scene was set in a desuetude train depot in Milan proving to be the perfect backdrop for a retro inspired collection.

The show opened with a broccolini green, lace, under the knee dress. A plunging ruffled neckline highlighted the decolletage which was adorned by a series of beaded layered necklaces in shades of turquoise, canary yellow and fire engine red. A ribbed, racing stripe, signature, Gucci belt attenuated the waist. Heritage Gucci loafers in the shade of chocolate added androgyny to the ensemble.

Ladylike demure radiated on a salmon, chiffon, poetic blouse. Scalloped bib insert, flared bell sleeve and flower corsage centrepiece brimmed with old world glam. The blouse was worn tucked into a scarlet, embroidered satin midi skirt enriched with oriental qualities. Aqua, T-bar platforms concluded the look.

Sicilian overtones dominated on a billowy, deep decolletage, characterful midi dress. The fabric print resembled a treasure map with words including generosity, sincerity and respect splashed across the garment. Undulating lines engulfed the sapphire, aquamarine and sand hued dress; a scintillating lemon sequin belt added sparkle. 

A decadent maxi dress was a standout in a kaleidoscope of colour. A ruffled bib collar shined in sequin topaz. Patchwork brocade in a riot of colour including mint, mandarin, grape, lavender and daisy ignited the bohemian number which brimmed with traditional Italian dress elements. Bouffant, ruffled sleeves and a tiered skirt added volume to the silhouette. Oversized, tortoiseshell glasses added the geek chic factor.

A kitsch, artisanal, seventies derived suit featured in shrunken proportions. A crisp white, sharp shouldered blazer was embellished with floral fauna embroidery in bold shades of lady bug red, ebony and forest green. Matching, tailored, slimline trousers with subtle flare also starred floral motifs and a swirling snake. A sky blue, classic, cotton poplin shirt was teamed underneath the jacket with a pink pineapple embossed tie delivering a quirky edge.

Grandeur with a bohemian twist came in the form of a high neck, ruffled placket blouse. Intricate lemon curd sequins and a red dainty sequin bow adorned the neck. Cobalt and gold brocade plentifully bestrewn the bodice while petal pink, 3/4, brocade sleeves complemented the deluxe hippie creation. Accessories included oversized, square, gold spangled glasses, a raven turban and bejewelled, cocktail, knuckle duster rings.

Vintage refinement was prevalent on an apple green, chiffon, midi dress. Gossamer airiness added a certain fragility. Bouffant sleeves, ruffled bib and drop waist tiered skirt billowed with every stride Elizabeth Moore took on the runway. A vermilion, floral corsage was accented by a stark white collar. Opulent, brocade, horsebit loafers finalised the look.

Preppy tenderness ruled on a pastel mauve, gingham, short scalloped sleeve shirt. Delicate ruffles cascaded down the shirt which was nipped in at the waist by a gold, leather,studded, ruby belt complete with interlocking GG gold insignia. A sunflower yellow, brocade skirt featured flounce hem, floral embroidery peppered throughout. A beatnik striped beret screamed free spirited hippie.

An ornate, colourful display enriched with neo romantic connotations as Michele continues to steer away from Gucci's previous predecessors, conveying his vision of geek girl does Gucci.

By Courtney Jones. 

ROBERTO CAVALLI SPRING 2016

ROBERTO CAVALLI SPRING 2016

For Creative Director Peter Dundas' first official collection at the helm of Roberto Cavalli, Dundas delved deep into the eighties decade with a jubilant display replete with liberated, sizzling garments with the hallmark features Cavalli is famed for. While other designers showcased 90s dominated looks Dundas opened the multi faceted collection with an array of sweet sorbet hued garments including an apricot, oversized full length, canvas trench which was paired to a ballet pink, cropped, leather shell and highwaisted utilitarian khaki shorts complete with asymmetrical zips and perforated black leather waist cincher. Terracotta suede boots cut low on the ankle featured tie suede detail. A single gold diamond shape earring was finalised with gold thread grazing the collarbone of model Greta Varlese. 

Maartje Verhoef took to the runway in a boxy, powder puff blue muted tee worn tucked into an ebony, a-line, leather mini. A floor sweeping frilled train was layered to the skirt which was a flamboyant inclusion.

An electric scarlet and burnt orange bomber jacket starred in a monochromatic floral and fauna print. The bold addition was paired to a fairy floss, strapless, ruched, tiered mini dress with diaphanous train. Saccharine lavender booties completed the look. A striking lustrous citrine version was married to a bronze, tapestry, tuxedo jacket steeped in Italian decadence emblazoned with lion motifs throughout. 

A showstopping colossal sized bow highlighted an alabaster, one shouldered, silk crop top. Eighties powerhouse connotations reigned supreme. Highwaisted, 7/8, denim jeans were embellished with fine beaded thread fringing, sequins and undulating lace inserts. A python shootie featured an almond toe, double buckle closure and wooden heel.

Russian model Kate Grigorieva modelled a zebra amethyst and black cropped tuxedo jacket adorned with scintillating black beading. A peach body con mini dress was teamed underneath. Cavalli's exotic jungle love affair was still very much in attendance.

A turtleneck, ruched, bandage dress in micro proportions was a textural delight. Zebra, ocelot, snake and nude strips encased Angel Rutledge's torso. A jumbo sized leather bow adorned the right shoulder and fell to the hip. Beaded strips resembling chains added plenty of the bling factor.

A floaty Grecian style mini dress in a watercolour of iced mauve and wild mulberry featured exposed shoulder with ruffled sleeve, asymmetric frill, grommet tiered billowy mini skirt attenuated by a black slimline velvet belt; a fragility with wasp like attitude prevailed.

A ruched lace, strapless bodice was accentuated with a romantic ruffled trimming which graced the decolletage and outer sleeves. The lace up front detail oozed with seductive charm. Blood red slimline waxy leather trousers came complete with wraparound waist with double gold ring detail. A fashion savvy design for the ever confident Cavalli woman.

Catwalk newcomer Romy Schonberger closed the collection in a  pink lemonade, lace up, statement making mini dress. Panelled ruching enveloped the tender, fanciful number. A large ruffle adorned the neckline and sleeves; a contemporary eye catching design bound to get you noticed.

By Courtney Jones.