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Balmain Fall RTW 2014
Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain produced a Fall 2014 Collection rich in gladiatorial air. The excess and drama was very prevalent this season. Gone were the saccharine shades of Spring 2014 replaced by a jungle colour palette full of garments exuding modern day warrior, safari and urban hip hop culture.
Jourdan Dunn opened the collection in a khaki, boxy, lavish leather jacket complete with colossal chest pockets and peplum hemline. Leather was butter soft and waxed to perfection. Fluid, silk molten metal cargo trousers produced a languid silhouette. A beaded choker collar and matching wrist cuffs brimmed with Masai connotations.
Exquisite tailoring and finesse featured on a cropped, utilitarian anorak with funnel collar. This was paired to a high waisted pencil skirt with bandage panelling. A starch, pleated peplum belt accessorised the look. Marquetry inspired peep toe midi boots offered artisanal qualities.
Some instances garments lent towards volume overload with more streamlined arabesques hitting the mark.
Balmain favourite Joan Smalls modelled leather, cuffed trousers with capacious cargo pockets. Medieval mixed with military was evident on a gallant, structured top with generously cut shoulder detail. A striking robustness created a sizzling silhouette. Details included silk corded panelling complete with leather inserts. Gargantuan, bamboo, gold hoop earrings screamed of Africa.
A leopard calf hair, cropped, sloping shoulder, cocoon jacket was teamed with an origami wrap top and drawstring trouser of relaxed proportions. A risque, sweater comprising of knitted shoulder detail and corded bodice was held precariously together with gold accented hardware. A faux fur black and metallic spliced, tiered mini skirt was drawn in at the waist by Rousteing's signature boxing belt.
An asphalt toned, cleverly draped, decadent, leather asymmetrical top with sharp shoulder and fluted sleeve was paired to free flowing dove grey trousers with neo siren qualities. Vivid mandarin featured on a high waisted, leather pencil skirt with horizontal, chunky chain panelling.
Animal instincts kicked in with flashes of exotic zebra print. Balmain's famed, cult worthy blazer was updated this season to reveal a longer silhouette. It was collarless with rebellious connotations including black leather and leopard inserts, peak shoulders and worn plunging to the navel. The jacket starred nicely against the full circle, mid thigh length pleated skirt, modelled by Andreea Diaconu.
Anna Selezneva took to the runway in a heavenly snow white, crew neck, ribbed angora jumper. The softness of the jumper worked well with the austerity of the angular leather peplum belt and calf hair zebra pencil skirt in which it was teamed to. Sasha Luss wore a masculine, midnight ink pant suit. The jacket offered clean lines and minimalism. The pants were full of fluidity in liquid silk. The aesthetic oozed of designer Haider Ackermann. A canary yellow top worn underneath was a bold colour addition.
A black and white, graphic, pannier wrap skirt was married to an electric papaya lamb's fur cropped sweater. This sweater also featured in the shade of canary yellow. The bold, decadent fur worked beautifully against Senait Gidley's mocha complexion.
Overall a ground breaking, victorious collection brimming with panache.
By Courtney Jones.
Prabal Gurung Fall 2013
For Nepalese American fashion designer Prabal Gurung's latest showing the designer appears to have raided an army surplus store, delving deep into the realms of militaria accents, punctuated with modern, sleek tailoring with a grandiose edge.
Military chic was updated with khaki skinny trousers worn bunched around the ankles, teamed with large peplum, flat front jacket paired with luxurious, black, fur snood. A heavily braided leather harness completed the look which resulted in a fashion forward display.
A capacious, chunky cable knit, turtleneck featured exposed shoulders and cut out waist detail.
Robust, spliced, gladiatorial, patella shin boots in crocodile were a covet worthy item, sure to be on the wish list of fashionistas galore.
Perfectly poised modernity came in the form of Ikat Aztec panelling on the cuffs and torso of a waist cinched peplum jacket and an Ikat bustier, duchess silk satin, liquid, tulip skirt.
Provocative, spliced, body con numbers comprising of satin and ponte oozed of femininity with a masculine twist, think mesh inserts and body swathing, bandage strips reminiscent of Roland Mouret's famed 'Galaxy' dress.
Celebrated leather wardrobe staples included cropped, bomber jacket with bouffant sleeves, high waisted flounce skirt and free flowing scoop neck dress, belted, paired with elbow length ruched leather gloves, stylish simplicity at its best.
Eveningwear embodied avant garde warrior like qualities. Spliced, slashed, dramatic, sensual garments included asymmetrical, bandeau, floor sweeping gowns in billowy, glossy silks with plenty of titillating flesh on display. Grecian references were evident on one shoulder, wrap dresses featuring gold sash embellishment. The colour palette comprised of rich navy, khaki, snow white and oxblood.
A series of satin, Florentine renaissance dress numbers consisted of cleverly draped fabric, swathing torsos. The style was evocative of Nicolas Ghesqiere's Balenciaga Fall 09 collection.
Accessories were bold and fetishistic. Spindly, vertiginous, gold, chromatic stilettos were a dangerous addition. Pointy, court shoes featured multiple straps and buckles. Buckled ankle boots were durable and heavy with Cuban heel detail. Bronzed, molten metal, oversized aviators completed the look.
By Courtney Jones.
