Dion Lee Line II S/S 14/15

Dion Lee Line II S/S 14/15

A vacant warehouse in Danks Street, Waterloo set the scene for Dion Lee's Line II RTW MBFW collection. As the fashion pack gathered for the highly anticipated show melancholy music echoed throughout the open space. Lee's collection embodied tailored sporting luxe tinged with masculinity. An interplay of drapery played a starring role in the collection. Feminine silhouettes oozed of energised cool. Deconstructed glamour best describes the aesthetic.

Look 1 comprised of an ebony, body con, crew neck sweater featuring elongated sleeves and double white racing stripe detail on the forearm. A chambray, asymmetrical, knee length skirt with origami folds created the illusion of a denim shirt wrapped around the waist. The look was finalised with a buttery soft, leather biker jacket worn nonchalantly around the waist. Footwear consisted of Roman gladiatorial sandals, toughening up the look.

A sleeveless pinstripe blouse worn buttoned to the neck featured denim bust pockets. The blouse was teamed to the staple denim jacket and black free flowing midi skirt. Rachel Rutt modelled a figure hugging, cobalt, funnel neck, fine merino knit which was paired to a navy, white and grey candy striped skirt. Details included a wraparound waist band resembling an obi and asymmetrical drapery.

Athleticism was evident on a streamlined pair of trousers complete with double white racing stripe cascading down the outer seam. A utilitarian pinstripe blazer in monochromatic black and white was worn ever so casually, insouciance reigned supreme. A crisp white trench with chambray collar and mid wash denim sleeves was a chic addition with uncluttered lines very much in attendance. A simplistic, muted dove grey, midi length dress with plunge v-neck detail and spliced under the bust cut-out feature was minimalism at its best.

The classic oxford shirt was updated with cut-out elbow detail twinned to a white leather vest attenuating the waist. The aesthetic resembled that of a straight jacket. The look was complete with hip hugging, voluminous trousers with zipper detail on the outer hip. Wearability continued to dominate on the runway with a waxy leather biker jacket in boxy proportions which was married to a cropped turtleneck sweater in black with white stripe detail. Languid, black trousers created a relaxed silhouette. A functional black parka with colossal sized pockets was paired to a snow white, turtleneck, crop knit and noir drawstring subtle peg leg trousers.

A sumptuous torso baring, high neck leather bralet was teamed to an androgynous peak shouldered blazer, elbow cut-outs created the illusion of a cape coat. A high waisted black and white midi skirt lent an understated bourgeois feel to the look. Athleticism references were prevalent on a midnight college bomber jacket with striped waist band and leather cuffs. An enticing knee length skirt with provocative thigh high split added a hit of exhibitionism. 

A two tonal vivid mandarin and tomato cutaway racer dress in sheer silk featured an orange sherbet halter crop worn underneath for modesty. The skirt featured wraparound fluid lines caressing the thighs.

By Courtney Jones.

Jason Wu Resort 2014

Jason Wu Resort 2014

Eponymous designer Jason Wu's latest display was an admirable, irrefutably modern line up. Amplified,sinuous tailoring bestowed hardened, feminine qualities.

A capacious, monochromatic, tuxedo jacket featured two gargantuan toggles, embellished black and white pencil skirt complete with palm leaf detail. A cropped, ebony, ribbed, bouffant sleeved, midriff baring, crew neck sweater replete with high low hem was a sassy addition twinned with high waisted, knee length pencil skirt and a muted grey hem panel. The abstract, enlarged, flourishing print was the focal point of the garment. Cat eye inspired wayfarers, a box minaudiere in black with gold trimmings and clasp was teamed with strappy black and white shooties complete with white polka dot criss cross detail breaching the breadth of the foot.

A tree frog green, patent leather overcoat paired with pristine, white shirting was worn tucked into tailored gunmetal, silver and white print shorts. This was just one example of the succession of bourgeois ensembles on offer. Mid calf gladiator heels were back with vengeance, toughening up the aesthetic of the collective.

A chartreuse, high waisted, tropical print, tap short and matching bralet was the epitome of fifties, screen siren chic. Head to local Australian design duo, Ginger and Smart this spring to emulate this look. When I attended their MBAFW collection I found analogous runway looks in shades of sorbet, perfect for an iconic, Australian summer. A neutral trench featuring large collar and colossal gun fold detail lent an understated air to the look.

A succession of denim looks high on limpidity were on display and included a medium wash, loose fitting tee and pencil skirt, double denim ensemble, a 3/4 sleeved round neck tunic with simplistic oversized two pocket detail and prominent gold stitching detail. Lastly a cropped denim, pillow sleeved aviator jacket was paired with a tropical cami and denim a-line skirt. Quintessential modernism mixed with nineties denim finds reigned supreme.

Sleek, polished swimwear in clean minimalistic lines included a trompe loeil effect one piece in black and white with tropical print deep plunge v-neck panel and black cross over strap decolletage detail. A mammoth keyhole graced another one piece swimsuit with waist cutouts referencing athleticism. An emerald, duchesse satin, balloon sleeve button coat was married with navy boy leg swimwear and matching bandeau top.

Artisanal, embroided, palm leaves played a starring role on eveningwear. A gauzy, chiffon, cutaway, phosphorescent dress encapsulated the models lithe body. Black satin breast pockets, placket and collar were sexy yet demure. Dainty craftsmanship bursting with pulchritude was clearly evident.

A breathtaking, ornate, boatneck ebony dress was an example of pure inhibition. A culmination of seductive closing runway looks comprised of a cutaway peony pink flesh, transparent halter sheath which would right at home in the boudoir. An asymmetrical, deftly draped floor length snow white gown, a lemon butter open back, tailbone peplum gown, very Grace Kelly and finally a duchesse satin strapless bustier, triangular torso cutout floor sweeping gown complete with full, diaphanous skirt. Creating a strong nod to the House of Dior.

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By Courtney Jones.