Saint Laurent Spring 2013

Saint Laurent Spring 2013

Yves Saint Laurent's, Stefano Pilati's successor, fashion virtuoso Hedi Slimane showcased a victorious display for his debut womenswear collection under the helm of the newly appointed Saint Laurent.

The name and logo change stirred up plenty of controversy among the fashion pack. All disputes aside Mr Slimane reminded everyone why he is a true pioneer of fashion.

Slimane delved deep into a dress up box resplendent of all things occult, gothic,Victorian, 70s safari, and bohemian.

Edie Campbell sashayed down the runway in a plunge suede, floor sweeping dress in rich toffee which laced down to the navel. Slimane obviously drew inspiration from the archives of the iconic Vogue Paris editorial featuring statuesque supermodel of the 60s, Verushka in a safari suit by YSL, complete with oversized wide brim hat.

Caped crusaders led the way and made a strong impact on the runway. Diaphanous, floor length capes in an array of materials including classic black felt and sheer chiffon leopard print, very signature YSL were in attendance.

Pussy bows played a starring role in the collection, supersized, poetic, with neo romanticism qualities that oozed of finesse. A profusion of blouses were teamed with this enticing accessory. Shades included biscuit, black and white with fabrics including decadent lace and mousseline.

A stylishly majestic gothic, black lace, tiered mullet dress with waist cincher belt was an enchanting addition. Plenty of delicate whimsy was on display.

A showstopping full length chubby fur coat complete with black and white zig zag pattern in oversized proportions was an absolute knockout. This coat would certainly have a place in the wardrobe of a bourgeois Russian woman, who has a strong penchant for fur. The look was finished off with a fire engine red shirt and black cigarette trousers.

Other garments on the runway included shrunken tux jackets which cut sleek silhouettes, plunge v neck metallic sweaters, Bermuda shorts, western style suede camel jacket with fringing detail on pockets and sleeves, palazzo pants, leather maxi skirts and crocheted kimonos.

Bewitching, low slung wide brimmed hats were a popular addition which emulated a free spirited 70s rock band groupie or the bohemian  qualities of love child Jade Jagger. Other accessories included enigmatic long black leather gloves and gold caged cuffs which engulfed models wrists. Long cord like necklaces featured large tassels which resembled curtain like embellishment. Intricate details were evident on T-bar stilettos which featured rivets on the inner side of the heel, a clever touch. A vertiginous platform court shoe complete with taupe toe cap was a chic, covet worthy item.

By Courtney Jones.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Consummates, Jake McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler produced a conceptual, jubilant line up this spring season.

A manifestation of the irrefutably modern was unimpededly on the agenda. A profusion of architectural lines and the reconfiguration of garments played a starring role in the collection.

A khaki croc, boxy vest with neon splices and croc plackets was teamed with a hipster white, perforated skirt with box pleat panelling. A fine olive and black turtleneck knit was worn underneath.

Athleticism crept in with a series of racer front scuba inspired dresses featuring zippers running vertically along the core of models torsos in a variety of shades including lime green, white and materials in exotic textures including crocodile and snakeskin.

This collection continually broke new ground throughout. A succession of geometric and graphic prints dissected and meticulously sewn back together to reveal haphazardous creations.

Liu Wen modelled a black and white halter dress featuring undulating patterns to highlight the contours of a woman's physique. Exposed shoulders were prominent on the runway, toned arms a must have accessory.

Esoteric digital prints appeared on garments. These included crowd, fauna and beach scenes and an underwater utopia. All of which offered an eccentric touch.

A collarless, waxed leather, cocoon coat, complete with sloping shoulders came in a bold colouring box of satanic red, black and white snakeskin. This was paired with a fitted A-line leather skirt. The juxtaposition of streamlined versus boxy will work well and cater to the broad demographic of the Proenza Schouler audience.

The new 'It' handbag set to rival Proenza Schouler's PS1 this season had an upgrade in the luxury department. It still paid homage to the satchel style which has proven to have plenty of pulling power and seen in a plethora of fashionistas wardrobes. Classic, monochromatic black and white satchels, without a logo to be seen, were prevalent. Envelope clutches came in a mash up of zebra and harlequin prints, metallic and patent panelling with metal ring hardware trimmings.

Wide,black, bandage like chokers were bound around models necks. This lent a strong, disciplined aesthetic to accompanying garments.

Towering, oblique stiletto heels were the footwear of choice. Other styles included peep toe, black, platform, under the knee sandal with cut out back design and a black suede bootie complete with ivory, knife edge, heel. 

By Courtney Jones.

Versace Spring 2013

Versace Spring 2013

Dauntless Donatella Versace delivered another preeminent collection this spring season.

Models were transformed into intrepid, safarian, femme fatales. Donatella delved into new territory with a disparate aesthetic yet remained true to the embodiment of the classic Versace woman.

An exotic sojourn was indubitably on the agenda.

Anna Selezneva emerged on the runway wearing an effortless, energised cool crushed silk boatneck tunic with brazen nude lace paillette inserts. A skinny black studded belt and high heeled gladiator stiletto sandals completed the captivating look.

Generously cut blazers looked as though models had raided their boyfriends wardrobes. This androgyny was teamed with the soft sheer femininity of scalloped lace hemmed shorts and lace bralets offering delicate whimsy.

A bright tamarillo lingerie slip dress was slashed to reveal sultry black lace, this look was toughened up with robust gladiatorial sandals.

A peripatetic, free spirited, desert traveller with a penchant for all things luxe sprang to mind.

Belted utilitarian safari ensembles included ivory tailored shorts and a suggestive suede hipster miniskirt with micro proportions which laced up flirtatiously.

A beckoning teal injected crushed silk shift dress with sheer lace panelling left little to the imagination. Features included a slinky side split and cut out back design. The bare necessities lingerie look was suffused once again with forceful, rugged, gladiator sandals.

Saturated tie dye fabrics featured on free flowing, voluminously sleeved tunics and kaftans.

Anabela Belikova modelled a Grecian goddess inspired dramatic evening dress featuring chartreuse tie dye fabric, cutaway waist detail and thigh high split surrounded by billowy, diaphanous proportions.

For those wanting to add some iridescent shine to their wardrobe, a halter neck metallic fringed mini dress in body con silhouette is sure to light up any dance floor for the effervescent party princess.

Accessories consisted of small, neat clutches featuring leather lattice detail. Boxy croc satchels with Versace logo hardware and pebbled leather satchels featured copious amounts of the amplified chic factor.

Jewellery featured bohemian accents including metallic chokers with a multitude of chains and coins plunging to navel height. Oversized hoop earrings with tassel detail decorated models ears.

This season models hair was transmogrified to reveal a less polished, slightly undone aesthetic. A crown of tousled waves framed models faces. Smoky bedroom eyes accompanied luminous bronzed skin.

Dsquared Spring 2013

Dsquared Spring 2013

Canadian twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten conjured up a tantalizing mix of highly charged, libidinous garments, twinned with bourgeois Chanel references this spring season.

Unashamedly suggestive garments were rolled out onto the runway offering plenty of va va voom! Soaring high octane energy was tinged with hints of rebellion.

A white muscle tee was emblazoned with the duo's surname, Caten. This was paired with a fetishistic leather harness and black culottes. A robust mix of trash versus treasure.

Greek fisherman caps slung low on models foreheads, were an inescapable fixture.An enticing display featured patent leather, strands upon strands of pearls, gold chunky chains and jewel encrusted, decorative appurtenances.

In typical Dsquared fashion, nothing was understated about this collection. Everything exuded the elixir of youth and extreme excess.

Distressed denim shorts, jeans, and skimpy mini skirts were in attendance. Swimwear included a black string bikini paired with leather, fingerless gloves and a titillating, spliced, t bar bandeau which offered serious attitude.

The sexy rock n roll vibe continued with shrunken leather moto jackets worn with crisp, white, tailored shirting. Lindsey Wixon modelled a sumptuous, chrome, bomber jacket paired with Spanish matador inspired white knickers featuring glistening, lustrous, gold embellishment which lent a piquant aesthetic.Sensual lace up corsetry complete with eyelets was teamed with a black ra ra skirt with raw hem detail.

A delicacy of captivating eveningwear included the mind blowing, amplified silhouette modelled my Bette Franke. It was a mullet dress featuring subtle leopard and love heart print in shades of magenta and black complete with a multitude of cascading ruffles.

A leather apron, floor length, fish tailed dress had a strong dominatrix slant.

As usual the brothers had a penchant for defined arabesques and fitted, body con shapes which referenced the 90s.

Accessories included a succession of lavish, gargantuan gold chains, layered upon one another. Choker necklaces proved popular this season. Brooches featured pearl cross configurations. Uncluttered, minimalistic gold cuffs offered clean lines. Belt buckles were plastered with DAN and DDC initials, perfect for the logo lover.

Lacquered, midi length, black boots featured gold accents. Teetering, bondage style, high heeled platform sandals came in shades of burnished gold. Mesmeric, crystal encrusted peep toe booties offered ornate swagger.

By Courtney Jones.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2013

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2013

Roberto Cavalli has a distinct cognizance of exactly what his customer base desires and his latest spring collection was carried out scrupulously and meticulously to champion true Cavalli style.
The colour palette consisted heavily of black and white. When colour did creep in it was in brilliant shades of orange sorbet, peach, emerald green, lavender and aquamarine which popped against the stark, monochromatic contrast.
Majestically stylish ensembles included a white lace, intricately embellished shrunken blazer with peak shoulder and white lapels. A matching shirt and sleek, figure hugging, hipster trouser complete with glass crystal, encrusted, bead work in swirling Pucciesque patterns resembled a broderie anglaise doily. The narrow trousers lent an elongated silhouette.
A profusion of sizzling, peek a boo cut outs were prominent on eveningwear which featured scintillating embellishment and rich velvets. One runway number channelled a modern day Morticia gothic, neo romanticism quality. Sheer netting mirrored gossamer airiness with an abundance of beaded strips applied to a striking, decadent, evening dress.
The tunic and trouser combo which has proven extremely popular with designers this season was revealed on a white lace, embroided tunic paired with slashed, silk fringed trousers.
Models wafted down the runway in sensual, languid arabesques including an apricot, punched leather insert, lingerie slip dress in a stylish Italian scarf print with flashes of emerald green which worked well against the apricot palette.
Roberto Cavalli released his inner safari with signature, exotic leopard prints and snakeskin panelling. Alluring, shoe string, plunge back dresses consumed of provocation.
Accessories were fearless and included a mash up of jungle predators. A chunky, white tiger cuff, very Bulgari, festooned models wrists. Tigers enveloped models ears on ear cuffs. Silver and pewter rectangular pieces formed chunky bangles, layered upon one another. Coiled snakes and tigers featured on chokers and collars. A multi faceted onyx and gold caged cocktail ring offered lustrous grandeur. A small white, crocodile, ladylike boxy, satchel came complete with gold chain handle. Other finishes included a graphic snake, aqua print bag and embossed leather numbers. Skinny, polished belts came in a selection of metallic, crocodile finishes. An oversized, rose gold pair of sunglasses featured sepia lenses and leaf detail on frames, tres chic. Vertiginous, strappy stilettos in snake pewter were a wardrobe must have.
Overall a effervescent collection celebrating a woman's form and silhouette.

By Courtney Jones.  

Balmain Spring 2013

Balmain Spring 2013

Adept, stalwart Olivier Rousteing produced a standout collection replete of bravado this spring season. Rousteing's collection referenced 80s and 90s Americana. Think supermodels and glamazons, mixed with athleticism, gridiron and college sports stars.

A myriad of amplified, generously cut shoulder pads were in attendance which was quite flummoxing. The Balmain woman this season was powerful, liberated, emboldened and ready to conquer the world.

Black and white harlequin prints featured predominantly on garments including slick suiting complete with 80s powerhouse shoulders, high waisted second skin checkered skinnies with ankle zipper detail and a powder puff pastel blue blazer complete with metallic hardware.

 Anna Selezneva modelled a halter neck, racer back jumpsuit with white wicker inserts which offered a fresh, modern alternative, minus the shoulder pads. Statuesque Kasia Struss strutted down the runway with precision sass and sophistication in a lemon, pale blue and white mini dress with undulating wicker panelling.

A cleverly draped, shrunken white halter top, swathed Juliana Shurig's upper torso, this look was paired with a high waisted, relaxed fit, waxed leather trouser. A strong, fierce look that commanded attention. Team with abs for the ultimate in sporting luxe.

A mixture of textures and graphics featured on floor grazing cuffed hemlines.

Rousteing succumbed to revivalism yet again this season channelling inspiration from his Fall 2012 and Resort 2013 collections.

Metallic sutures were evident on a honey mustard, wicker embossed top with matching sleek mini. Guipure lace added a soft femininity and juxtaposition to the wicker inserts which referenced Cuban furniture. Less opulent garments for everyday wear included an indigo wash, denim shirt dress buttoned up to the neck, a four piece denim suit which included bustier, cropped press stud shirt, jegging and oversized tuxedo blazer. A denim bustier offered coquettish charm.

Accessories were an integral part of the collection. These included a black and white belt featuring silver hardware which resembled artillery and patent, emblematic boxing belts either worn slung low on hips or waist cinching. Supersized silver hoop earrings were resplendent of the 80s. Chrome court shoes and perforated leather, peep toe, stiletto booties made regular runway appearances.

By Courtney Jones.

Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2013

Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2013

Legendary venerable design duo Dolce and Gabbana continued to reign supreme this season with their latest spring / summer offering which was bursting with pulchritude. 

Dolce and Gabbana drew inspiration from their Sicilian heritage which resulted in an embodiment of all things Italian.

An inescapable fixture of corsetry was highly prevalent. Attenuated waists lent a sculptural silhouette.

A riot of colour was resplendent on prints featuring conquistadors and moor inspired artifacts. Scarf prints were teamed haphazardously with impressionistic fresco style prints. A manifestation of all things kitsch was a hallmark feature.

A multitude of puppeteria characters were emblazoned on garments including shifts, 1950s sirenesque, diaphanous skirts, culottes, head scarves and blousons.

A strong handcrafted artisanal aesthetic was evident on a hessian shift dress complete with nipped in waist and flower applique. A multi coloured macrame bralet and mini skirt was teamed with matching tote and demure sandal oozed of Italian charm. Dolce and Gabbana's signature lace inserts and motifs made an appearance on bloomers, tailored cropped jackets and figure hugging pencil skirts.

Stripes proved popular this season. A red candy striped, breezy boatneck blouse teamed with matching knicker bocker, modelled by Karmen Pedaru, had a distinct vintage swimwear air to it. Zuzanna Bijoch closed the show in a showstopping, museum worthy caged, wicker corset dress with lighter than air chiffon overlay.

Bold, oversized, ornate earrings bared a striking resemblance to a pinada.

A combination of pom poms, straw and beaded earrings were shown in colourful displays. Moors characters dangled from models ears.

This collection was a combination of finesse, ostentation and practically minded garments. Either way there is something to suit everyone's palette.

By Courtney Jones.