Just Cavalli Spring 2013

Just Cavalli Spring 2013

Roberto Cavalli unleashed his penchant for jungle fever once again this spring season. This tried and true formula consistently works for Cavalli who knows inexplicably how to make a woman feel glamorous, sexy and empowered all without overtly evoking pure provocation. 

The Just Cavalli woman is of a younger clientele than the more sophisticated Roberto Cavalli woman yet the signature Cavalli aesthetics still remain, in a free spirited, bohemian attitude.

Model Muriel Beal opened the show in a opulent, white moto jacket heavily embellished with studs and spikes which in turn resembled a crocodile's skin. This look was twinned with a sheer, high necked, tuxedo shirt with opaque placket and collar. This hardened silhouette was softened with a free flowing, a-line botanica skirt featuring pansies, hydrangeas and bougainvilleas in dusty pinks, mauves and magenta.

A Levi's inspired boxy denim vest was sandblasted and distressed and featured frayed hem detail. This garment will strike a cord with the oh so cool fashion pack, teamed in a variety of ways to put their own personal creative spin on the garment. In this instance Cavalli teamed the vest with stretch satin leopard pants with floral lavender panelling on the outer seams.  

Origami, wasp like folds were evident on a floaty camisole featuring high-low hemmed sides and a vibrant bouquet of cobalt African Violets teamed with lighter than air, sheer chiffon pleated skirt.

Romanesque motifs and emblems featured on racer front drop shift dresses with scarf prints cascading garments borders.

Spanish influences crept in on cropped bolero jackets, matador style, paired with white structured shirts and 3/4 cropped, flat front, stretch Capri pants. A cobalt printed peak shoulder tuxedo jacket with navy border was a fresh, stylish addition, perfect for cruising the Amalfi coastline.

Ivory crochet knitwear featured black dip dye effect trimmings with cut out shoulder and sleeve detail. Perfect to throw over a bikini once the sun sets.

The collection closed with an explosion of colour found on billowy, diaphanous kaftan mini dresses in shades of azure and lime zest. Graphic, fauna, digital prints which resembled Magic Eye abstract expressionism came in body con forms. A pastel pink, silver and muted rose lurex, mini, tee dress will be sure to appeal to the nightlife lover.

Roberto Cavalli recently unveiled his collection for Target at Bondi Junction. I was fortunate enough to meet the immensely talented designer. Roberto Cavalli approached me and started making conversation. What an honour!

By Courtney Jones. 

 

Loewe Spring 2013

Loewe Spring 2013

Designer Stuart Vevers of adept luxury leather goods house Loewe, concocted a collection rich in sophisticated visual imagery resplendent of the surrealist movement with a strong nod to famed Mexican artist, Frida Kahlo.
Spanish accents were also prevalent and featured on fine, tooled leather garments such as shirts and perforated trenches lending hardened femininity and sinuous tailoring to the Loewe design philosophy.
A sleek chocolate bomber jacket with ornate organza sleeves featured flower applique detail, this was twinned with a sculpted, high waisted pencil skirt complete with kick pleat hem. A belted, butter soft, chocolate cuffed, leather tee dress complete with libidinous leg split was a chic wardrobe staple.
The luxurious colour palette consisted of exotic shades reminiscent of Indian spices, think cardamom, persimmon, cinnamon and paprika.
A  delicate, organza, puff ball sleeve blouse was teamed with a 50s style satin bralet. The look was finished off with a muted khaki pencil skirt featuring a black baroque print.
The ultimate in sporting luxe- a hooded tangerine plunge neck suede dress with sleeves pushed up ever so effortlessly was tinged with hints of Little Miss Riding Hood turns track star.
A sand, utilitarian, drawstring toggle dress was of safari style and featured oversized pockets for added charm.
A flummoxing garment came in the form of a snood like top featuring gathering framing model Kati Nescher's face. A black crocheted trench coat was a suggestive addition suitable for a 50s screen siren.
Other garments included leather lattice panel tees, a black suede leather lace up oversized boxy shift with hoodie detail, dove grey cropped vest with architectural lines worn with high neck tank, black & white shirt dress with Florence Broadhurst inspired print. A stellar, majestically stylish double breasted 3/4 tangerine belted trench was a striking runway look.
Zuzanna Bijoch took to the runway in a lady like taupe perforated leather coat with supersized Peter Pan collar.
Accessories were a strong focal point and consisted of a line up of desirable satchels featuring embossing and opulent skins. Vevers is nothing short of an accessory virtuoso. Roomy satchels featured in shades of paprika, latte and khaki. A chocolate suede satchel featured python panel detail. A khaki overnight bag with camel trimmings and black handles was a fetching annexation. Straw totes offered a sassy accretion.
Footwear included a manifestation of tooled platform wedge clogs, shooties with thick ankle strap and strappy wedge platforms.
Makeup comprised of vibrant matte red lips which packed serious punch, translucent skin and defined eyebrows. Hair was pulled back dramatically with a centre part and bun fastening.

By Courtney Jones.

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2013

For fashion maverick Jean Paul Gaultier's latest Spring 2013 Collection, Gaultier transmogrified models into bona fide iconic pop starlets which resulted in a flamboyant, entertaining display bursting with high octane energy.

The ostentatious collection included runway looks inspired by the embodiment of Grace Jones, David Bowie, Michael Jackson, Abba, Boy George, Annie Lennox and Madonna.

Grace Jones lookalikes were the first to strut down the runway. Garments included powerhouse tuxedos resplendent of the 80s,including a deep v-neck plunge jumpsuit with peak shoulder and satin lapel detail. Androgynous tailoring with a masculine edge featured on cuffed, free form man style trousers and black shirting complete with skinny, black, matte ties. Stacked square and triangular art deco bangles were the accessory of choice.

David Bowie AKA Ziggy Stardust inspired personas graced the catwalk. Models sported pillar box red Bowie spiked mullets and paid homage to the 80s in true style with pale blue frosted eyeshadow. A crocheted one leg, one arm jumpsuit featured stars emblazoned throughout. A star motif neckplate and gargantuan star cuff completed the look.

Hannelore Knuts bared a striking resemblance to her portrayer, Annie Lennox. Pinstripe suiting, crisp white shirts, deconstructed waistcoats played a starring role in the collection which was reinvented from the classic staple Gaultier tux, pure ingenuity.

Madonna like garments emerged with hallmark features of her 80s heyday. Lingerie and lace chemises, 3/4 fishnets, beaded corsetry, satin gloves, and grosgrain ribbons were tied nonchalantly in models hair, twinned with crimped fringes. Rosary necklaces, beads and chokers were strewn around models necks. Jewellery included statement spiked hooped earrings with inner cross detail, dog tags and spiral arm cuffs which enveloped models forearms. Uninhibited exhibitionism came in  the form of titillating vaudeville displays of flesh conical bralets, cropped mesh hoodies, scalloped lace shorts and revealing deconstructed garments held together by risque T-bar detail. These looks were paired with the forever iconic Madonna beauty spot.

The pop culture theme continued with Boy George ensembles including pork pie hats in burgundy, teal and red worn with a multitude of braids with fabric weaved through individual plaits. Orientalism crept in and was evident on kimonos, floral maxis and peg leg pants. The look finished off with bondage style wedge platforms emulating modern day geisha's.

The king of pop, Michael Jackson's wardrobe consisted of scintillating red glitter moto jacket with reinforced shoulders, white tee and cuffed black pants reminiscent of the 'Thriller' era. Accessories included low slung fedoras, white leather gloves with eyelet detail and creeper footwear.

Spontaneous meandering crept in when Gaultier moved in different tangents. Think Breton stripe slouch blousons, metallic college bomber jackets, distressed denim maxis, cut offs, crochet fringed flapper empire line dresses and tribal costumes.

French singer Amanda Lear, muse of surrealist painter Salvador Dali closed the show in a candy pink plunge sequin bodysuit paired with leather aviator jacket with white fir trimmings, oh so glam!

By Courtney Jones.

Emilio Pucci Spring 2013

Emilio Pucci Spring 2013

Designer Peter Dundas of Milanese fashion house, Emilio Pucci showcased a defiant, empowering collection replete of mesmeric exhibitionism.
A profusion of transparent, wasp like layering left little to the imagination. Runway looks were showcased in colour blocked virginal white with sylph like airiness. Oriental embroidery featured heavily on garments, this heightened the origami silhouette effect. Cheongsam necklines played a reoccurring role throughout the collection. Sheer panelling was evident on halter, apron, column dresses which offered a tantalizing mix of provocation crossed with demurity.
Stylish ensembles included simplistic layered chiffon tanks and tunics with strategically placed embroidery.For the more modest woman, nude slips were worn as under garments.
A dainty, whimsical, sheer trench was belted and oozed of insouciance. The transparency of the trench highlighted the craftsmanship of this delicate garment replete with intricate bead work.
Minis were teamed with sheer maxi proportions. A cobalt, sumptuous silk, bomber jacket with cut out shoulder detail and overblown sleeves featured dragon motifs, paired with a hip hugging pencil skirt with covered button detail.
Relaxed kimono style wraps showcased utilitarian chic at its very best. 
A vivacious, oriental inspired, asymmetrical dress complete with obi and quilted hem detail showcased punchy contours.
The famous Pucci scarf print made several appearances on culottes, pyjama pants and kimonos in delicious shades of pistachio, chocolate and khaki. Other prints featured scarlet and deep vermilion.
Femininity and languid free forms featured on bandeau, knotted, halter maxis. Enigmatic black held its own on the runway and was found on a boatneck, slinky floor length number with regal gold dragon design and a high neck tunic dress with voluminous sleeves.
A captivating racer front, fire engine red, halter column dress with sexy side splits was the closing number of the show modelled by Joan Smalls.
Amplified footwear included platform, knotted espadrilles and strappy croc platforms in shades of gold, black and khaki. Super sized visor sunglasses in shades of pewter were the eye wear of choice. Jewellery was kept to a bare minimum. Sleek white cuffs with gold hardware graced models wrists. Tres chic, glossy, convex, white minaudieres and envelope clutches offered the timeless glamour associated with the effervescent Pucci woman.

By Courtney Jones.
 

Balenciaga Spring 2013

Balenciaga Spring 2013

For Parisian powerhouse, Nicolas Ghesquiere's final collection under the helm of Balenciaga he showcased a stellar line up bursting with ingenuity and purism.

A disparate shift of aesthetic was evident. A profusion of liberated silhouettes with plenty of flesh on display roamed the runway. Ghesquiere conjured up images of sophistication combined with robustness and strictly disciplined garments.

Characterful high waisted skirts featured thigh high splits, oozing with conviction and cascading ruffles.

Masculinity reigned supreme with androgynous pants suits in dove grey, very Emporio Armani.

Bandage body con bustiers were paired with high waisted, tapered leg pant, with pleat hip detail. Fashions current obsession with peplums continued and found there way on to garments adding hints of Spanish ethnicity.

Oversized, rigorously cut, angular bibs offered avant garde qualities. The austerity of the bib was softened with the juxtaposition of shapely, floor sweeping, flounced skirts. A clinical, white trench dress was belted and featured perforated hem and bodice, think clean, minimalistic lines.

A sensual, white lace shirt featured shoulder pad detail, paired with navy, tweed boucle like, kilt mini skirt with gold button detail. Tweed boucle like embroideries also made appearances on bibs, blazers and brassieres.

A succession of saccharine, guipure lace dresses came in shades of muted yellow and powder puff blue. Mosaic, leaf pailettes featured heavily on the closing garments of the show including empire strapless dresses and art noveau shifts.

Triumphant, statement making accessories flourished. Chunky, yellow gold ring bands encased models fingers, fine gold bands were worn as midi rings resulting in hand embellishment which had an overall warrior like effect. Fine, gold chain necklaces with charm detail dangled coquettishly from models necks.

An exceptional preeminent hair accessory ruled the runway and came in the form of a headband complete with silver twig detail yet instead of being worn on the crown of the head it was placed ever so cleverly at the back of models heads, above the ears. This accessory complimented the undone, bed head hair style worn half up, half down.

Footwear included two tonal navy and black lace up bootie heels, which were finished in waxed leather. Conceptual, heeled black brogues offered chic practicality paired with fashion panache. Handbags came in structured shapes of hat boxes, makeup and binoculars cases.

By Courtney Jones.

Saint Laurent Spring 2013

Saint Laurent Spring 2013

Yves Saint Laurent's, Stefano Pilati's successor, fashion virtuoso Hedi Slimane showcased a victorious display for his debut womenswear collection under the helm of the newly appointed Saint Laurent.

The name and logo change stirred up plenty of controversy among the fashion pack. All disputes aside Mr Slimane reminded everyone why he is a true pioneer of fashion.

Slimane delved deep into a dress up box resplendent of all things occult, gothic,Victorian, 70s safari, and bohemian.

Edie Campbell sashayed down the runway in a plunge suede, floor sweeping dress in rich toffee which laced down to the navel. Slimane obviously drew inspiration from the archives of the iconic Vogue Paris editorial featuring statuesque supermodel of the 60s, Verushka in a safari suit by YSL, complete with oversized wide brim hat.

Caped crusaders led the way and made a strong impact on the runway. Diaphanous, floor length capes in an array of materials including classic black felt and sheer chiffon leopard print, very signature YSL were in attendance.

Pussy bows played a starring role in the collection, supersized, poetic, with neo romanticism qualities that oozed of finesse. A profusion of blouses were teamed with this enticing accessory. Shades included biscuit, black and white with fabrics including decadent lace and mousseline.

A stylishly majestic gothic, black lace, tiered mullet dress with waist cincher belt was an enchanting addition. Plenty of delicate whimsy was on display.

A showstopping full length chubby fur coat complete with black and white zig zag pattern in oversized proportions was an absolute knockout. This coat would certainly have a place in the wardrobe of a bourgeois Russian woman, who has a strong penchant for fur. The look was finished off with a fire engine red shirt and black cigarette trousers.

Other garments on the runway included shrunken tux jackets which cut sleek silhouettes, plunge v neck metallic sweaters, Bermuda shorts, western style suede camel jacket with fringing detail on pockets and sleeves, palazzo pants, leather maxi skirts and crocheted kimonos.

Bewitching, low slung wide brimmed hats were a popular addition which emulated a free spirited 70s rock band groupie or the bohemian  qualities of love child Jade Jagger. Other accessories included enigmatic long black leather gloves and gold caged cuffs which engulfed models wrists. Long cord like necklaces featured large tassels which resembled curtain like embellishment. Intricate details were evident on T-bar stilettos which featured rivets on the inner side of the heel, a clever touch. A vertiginous platform court shoe complete with taupe toe cap was a chic, covet worthy item.

By Courtney Jones.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Proenza Schouler Spring 2013

Consummates, Jake McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler produced a conceptual, jubilant line up this spring season.

A manifestation of the irrefutably modern was unimpededly on the agenda. A profusion of architectural lines and the reconfiguration of garments played a starring role in the collection.

A khaki croc, boxy vest with neon splices and croc plackets was teamed with a hipster white, perforated skirt with box pleat panelling. A fine olive and black turtleneck knit was worn underneath.

Athleticism crept in with a series of racer front scuba inspired dresses featuring zippers running vertically along the core of models torsos in a variety of shades including lime green, white and materials in exotic textures including crocodile and snakeskin.

This collection continually broke new ground throughout. A succession of geometric and graphic prints dissected and meticulously sewn back together to reveal haphazardous creations.

Liu Wen modelled a black and white halter dress featuring undulating patterns to highlight the contours of a woman's physique. Exposed shoulders were prominent on the runway, toned arms a must have accessory.

Esoteric digital prints appeared on garments. These included crowd, fauna and beach scenes and an underwater utopia. All of which offered an eccentric touch.

A collarless, waxed leather, cocoon coat, complete with sloping shoulders came in a bold colouring box of satanic red, black and white snakeskin. This was paired with a fitted A-line leather skirt. The juxtaposition of streamlined versus boxy will work well and cater to the broad demographic of the Proenza Schouler audience.

The new 'It' handbag set to rival Proenza Schouler's PS1 this season had an upgrade in the luxury department. It still paid homage to the satchel style which has proven to have plenty of pulling power and seen in a plethora of fashionistas wardrobes. Classic, monochromatic black and white satchels, without a logo to be seen, were prevalent. Envelope clutches came in a mash up of zebra and harlequin prints, metallic and patent panelling with metal ring hardware trimmings.

Wide,black, bandage like chokers were bound around models necks. This lent a strong, disciplined aesthetic to accompanying garments.

Towering, oblique stiletto heels were the footwear of choice. Other styles included peep toe, black, platform, under the knee sandal with cut out back design and a black suede bootie complete with ivory, knife edge, heel. 

By Courtney Jones.